I own a Hunter 260 that I bought last year. The boat is in great shape just that the wood is starting to show a small amount of weathering. What is the best technique to stay ahead of this?
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I'm going to assume you're referring to exterior teak trim. If that's the case, I'd use Cetol. Clean the teak, apply 3 coats of Cetol (24 hours apart) and one coat each following year to touch it up.
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captbill
Don't like Cetol
The previous owner of my O'day 30, STARGAZER, had Cetol on the exterior teak. By the time I bought the boat, the varnish had peeled in a lot of places and looked horrible! I about killed myself stripping and sanding everything down to the bare wood again just to get the rest of the varnish off so I could start over. It took so much work that I vowed never to put varnish on my teak again! I now use a local product called TeakCare that puts a gorgeous golden finish on the teak and does NOT peel! Just wash the teak once or twice a season and apply this stuff - which looks like chocolate milk when it goes on but is beautiful when it dries - with a good 1" varnish brush. I've used it for five years now and I still get compliments on it. Good stuff!
The previous owner of my O'day 30, STARGAZER, had Cetol on the exterior teak. By the time I bought the boat, the varnish had peeled in a lot of places and looked horrible! I about killed myself stripping and sanding everything down to the bare wood again just to get the rest of the varnish off so I could start over. It took so much work that I vowed never to put varnish on my teak again! I now use a local product called TeakCare that puts a gorgeous golden finish on the teak and does NOT peel! Just wash the teak once or twice a season and apply this stuff - which looks like chocolate milk when it goes on but is beautiful when it dries - with a good 1" varnish brush. I've used it for five years now and I still get compliments on it. Good stuff!
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Bill O'Donovan
Varnish vs. baby poop
Cetol is dreadful looking. My yard uses a 50-50 varnish/thinner as the first coat, to really sink in. Then they put undiluted varnish on. Varnish simply looks more authentic, to me.
Cetol is dreadful looking. My yard uses a 50-50 varnish/thinner as the first coat, to really sink in. Then they put undiluted varnish on. Varnish simply looks more authentic, to me.
Teak
Paul, I use the lazyman's approach on my h26. Periodically, I scrub the hell out of the teak (I have stern pulpit seats also) with a household detergent. They come out clean and light colored. I then rub them with a product called Teak Oil. Lately, I've started to use a local household oil available here in Mexico instead of expensive Teak Oil. Easy,cheap, and looks good. Besides, it gives me a chance to work on my boat. Molly doesn't need much maintenance and I welcome the chance to mess around with her. David King "Molly"
Paul, I use the lazyman's approach on my h26. Periodically, I scrub the hell out of the teak (I have stern pulpit seats also) with a household detergent. They come out clean and light colored. I then rub them with a product called Teak Oil. Lately, I've started to use a local household oil available here in Mexico instead of expensive Teak Oil. Easy,cheap, and looks good. Besides, it gives me a chance to work on my boat. Molly doesn't need much maintenance and I welcome the chance to mess around with her. David King "Molly"
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Randy Kolb
One word - SEMCO
Goes on like oil. Lasts like varnish. Has a natural, non shiny, look. I bought the "Teak Slave" kit and am very happy with the results. It did involve removing the teak and cleaning it (mine was in bad shape) before applying the finish. If your teak is in good shape (and not varnished)you can probably avoid that stage. The previous owner had varnished the teak but I have no interest in sanding and varnishing. So I waited for the varnish to finally give out and then went the SEMCO route. It looks great and is way easier than varnish and outlasts oil.
Goes on like oil. Lasts like varnish. Has a natural, non shiny, look. I bought the "Teak Slave" kit and am very happy with the results. It did involve removing the teak and cleaning it (mine was in bad shape) before applying the finish. If your teak is in good shape (and not varnished)you can probably avoid that stage. The previous owner had varnished the teak but I have no interest in sanding and varnishing. So I waited for the varnish to finally give out and then went the SEMCO route. It looks great and is way easier than varnish and outlasts oil.
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Randy Kolb
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Frederick Pierce
Teak Wood Conditioning
TO ALL, In talking about teak wood reconditioning it was recommended to me to used a product named ARMADA COATINGS its like a varnish its comes in satin or gloss finishs I used for many years , all you have to use is a teak cleaner and rince it and have it dry. you apply it with a brush they say apply three coats after that it looks great. I applyed it three seasons and its still looks great. There website is www.armadacoatings.com It comes in quarts and its apprx 25.00 I do not know anything about cetol but what I see on this site I would not like try it . The website shows you were there!s dealers everwere.Frederick Pierce
TO ALL, In talking about teak wood reconditioning it was recommended to me to used a product named ARMADA COATINGS its like a varnish its comes in satin or gloss finishs I used for many years , all you have to use is a teak cleaner and rince it and have it dry. you apply it with a brush they say apply three coats after that it looks great. I applyed it three seasons and its still looks great. There website is www.armadacoatings.com It comes in quarts and its apprx 25.00 I do not know anything about cetol but what I see on this site I would not like try it . The website shows you were there!s dealers everwere.Frederick Pierce
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