Removed old stereo & loran system from panel. Two big holes in black plastic panel, would like to replace panel with wood. Where can I send this out, also the switch panel I'm thinking would look nice in wood. Thoughts? Suggestions? Thanks.
Wood Instrument Panel
- Thread starter william24424
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You can get Teak Marine Plywood in 1/4 sheets fro Boulter Plwwood in Sommerville, MA. Just Google Boulyer Plywood. Great people to deal with.
Boulter Plywood in Somerville, MA is one of the best spots to get teak plywood to match what you have.
Maybe another Cal owner knows what stain/poly is factory.
Maybe another Cal owner knows what stain/poly is factory.
I've heard good things about Boulter, and I supposed this is a DIY job, the panel with the VHF and Stereo seems easy, but the other panel with all the switches seems difficult, especially the switch holes, printing, ect. I think any real wood can be stained close enough, there are already different shades of wood trim and the look seems to work. Any idea of a place I could mail the old panel for wood replacement?
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why not just veneer over the existing panel that would complament what you are looking for ....its only 1/32 thick and you could just drill Through holes from the back side using a brad point bit and clamping the panel to a sub-strait in order to not blow out the drill holes.....
regards
woody
While a wood panel would look nice, it's certainly not normal (the veneer idea is probably the best approach). If you're looking for a new panel, talk to Bass Products in Connecticut. They will do custom panels for a very reasonable price (starting about the same as a regular blue sea panel, or less)
I did mine last spring, here is the results. http://sailingit.com/blog/boat-projects/electrical-panel-upgrade
I did mine last spring, here is the results. http://sailingit.com/blog/boat-projects/electrical-panel-upgrade
Lets see, not cutting holes in a wood panel is what you are sending this out for. I think you are overestimating how hard this would be to accomplish yourself.
At home depot they have plywood handy panels and the iron on edge tape, cut to size using the old panel as a template, drill holes also using template, take an iron and apply the edge treatment to all 4 sides, finish in your favorite finish. I've found that if you sort through the handy panels you can find a light color (aspin??) wood with the teal like grain and they have teak stain in the paint department.
On the subject of electrical panel replacement I'd make the same comment. Just copy the hole pattern and transfer the electricals. The only difference is the labels on the front. Think powerpoint and transparencies. I found that if you get the really thin transparencies and hand cut them out you can get a pretty fancy product.
The key is working in small areas on the first coat to "glue" the labels in place using tooth picks to maneuver them into position then 5-8 coats of polyurethane to bring the level of finish up to and over the height of the labels. Cut the corners round as square ones are a real pain to sand. I put the boat name and important stuff like keel depth, bridge clearance etc on the panel also.
At home depot they have plywood handy panels and the iron on edge tape, cut to size using the old panel as a template, drill holes also using template, take an iron and apply the edge treatment to all 4 sides, finish in your favorite finish. I've found that if you sort through the handy panels you can find a light color (aspin??) wood with the teal like grain and they have teak stain in the paint department.
On the subject of electrical panel replacement I'd make the same comment. Just copy the hole pattern and transfer the electricals. The only difference is the labels on the front. Think powerpoint and transparencies. I found that if you get the really thin transparencies and hand cut them out you can get a pretty fancy product.
The key is working in small areas on the first coat to "glue" the labels in place using tooth picks to maneuver them into position then 5-8 coats of polyurethane to bring the level of finish up to and over the height of the labels. Cut the corners round as square ones are a real pain to sand. I put the boat name and important stuff like keel depth, bridge clearance etc on the panel also.
Moving slow
Boulter lumber is closed today, but I had a cabinet end piece lying around to practice or see if this will work. Easy enough. The plastic was 1/4" lumber same thickness, only one edge will need finishing, I'll only need to match stain, or come close. The switch panel can probably be done with a veneer., I'm moving slow but will update with photos, labels powerpoint sounds like a good idea. Thanks all for input.
Boulter lumber is closed today, but I had a cabinet end piece lying around to practice or see if this will work. Easy enough. The plastic was 1/4" lumber same thickness, only one edge will need finishing, I'll only need to match stain, or come close. The switch panel can probably be done with a veneer., I'm moving slow but will update with photos, labels powerpoint sounds like a good idea. Thanks all for input.
Moving on...
So Boulters lumber ripped my piece of marine grade ply needed for job, reddish mahogany veneer seemed to match wood closest, $25, in for dime...so I practiced cutting VHF/Stereo holes on my (practice) cabinet end piece. Now that I have an idea and template, I'm ready for the next few steps, trying my plan on the actual piece. My new set-up is a space for i-pad, stereo and VHF below, with wood back. Feel free to criticize/compliment, (with google and a SBO fraternity I can do anything, including open heart surgery) and so I am moving on...
So Boulters lumber ripped my piece of marine grade ply needed for job, reddish mahogany veneer seemed to match wood closest, $25, in for dime...so I practiced cutting VHF/Stereo holes on my (practice) cabinet end piece. Now that I have an idea and template, I'm ready for the next few steps, trying my plan on the actual piece. My new set-up is a space for i-pad, stereo and VHF below, with wood back. Feel free to criticize/compliment, (with google and a SBO fraternity I can do anything, including open heart surgery) and so I am moving on...
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Bill, As far as color matching. I used Teak Marine Plywood from Boulter (I got a 1/4 sheet and cut out pcs. for my needs) and I applied Min Wax Poly Shades Pecan. After a few coats with light sanding in between, the color matched. It got slightly darker with each coat. I then put on a coat of Min Wax Clear Satin Finish. It came out great. I was replacing some vertical paneling in the galley area. I then coated the rest of the galley area wood with the Min Wax Clear satin.
Next step...
Very impressed with Boulter lumber...paint store tomorrow thanks for the advice... I've got a matte finish on interior wood, I think satin finish will would work well on panel. Dremel tool worked great on cutting holes, winter projects...if they're were none I'd missed that old boat.
Very impressed with Boulter lumber...paint store tomorrow thanks for the advice... I've got a matte finish on interior wood, I think satin finish will would work well on panel. Dremel tool worked great on cutting holes, winter projects...if they're were none I'd missed that old boat.
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