My neighbor is refinishing his house decks with a semitransparent name brand(Olympus or Behr) finish.I need to reapply a finish to my two rails,4 step strips(all cleaned and awaiting finish).I hate to buy a "marine finish"and have 90% left over,when all I need probably is 4-6 oz.Is there any reason this house deck finish can not be used for my little bit of wood? His wood looks pretty good.
Wood Finish
- Thread starter bowtrash
- Start date
- Status
Not the right product.
You'll find a ton of oppinions of what brand of varnish or oil to use on teak. I dont think that the teak would be very compatible with the deck stain a pressure treated deck requires. Use the right stuff and you'll not be cursin yourself later.
You'll find a ton of oppinions of what brand of varnish or oil to use on teak. I dont think that the teak would be very compatible with the deck stain a pressure treated deck requires. Use the right stuff and you'll not be cursin yourself later.
Marine finish
I like to share this tip I learned a while back. Store unused can of varnish upside down and put it in a ziplock freezer bag. Store it in a cool but never frozen place. They'll look like fresh for a few years. The reason is the top of the varnish will oxide and form a skin. By putting the can upside down keeps the skin on the bottom when you open it in the future. By the way, this works for all paint. The freezer bag is just insurance if the lid leak.
I like to share this tip I learned a while back. Store unused can of varnish upside down and put it in a ziplock freezer bag. Store it in a cool but never frozen place. They'll look like fresh for a few years. The reason is the top of the varnish will oxide and form a skin. By putting the can upside down keeps the skin on the bottom when you open it in the future. By the way, this works for all paint. The freezer bag is just insurance if the lid leak.
Git It...no short cuts
Just what I thought and will not try a short cut.West Marine here I come! Thanks for confirming.
Just what I thought and will not try a short cut.West Marine here I come! Thanks for confirming.
Schooner Varnish is good.
Most manufacturers have relatively the same costs. This really shows up in the chemical industry which includes paint and coatings. If you can buy this part of the story, then logic will dictate that the more expensive product is the better product. So, is a gallon of varnish in HD for $15 as good as a quart of another brand for $25 ? Dont bet on it. I cant remember some of the brand names, and I do not have some of the catalogs handy, but if you go to Ace Hardware, or other hardware stores, Schooner Varnish sells for about $25 and I know its not as much as a quart, but its good stuff. Maybe you could split a can with someone? Another thing that adds to the price of paint and varnish is 'ease of application'. That means less drips and runs, quicker set-up time and higher percentage of solids ( the stuff that actually remains behind after the solvents have evaporated out of it). You get what you pay for. Also.......the woodworking industry is eons behind the automotive industry when it comes to paints and clear coats(polyurethanes). If you have had any experience with 2 component finishes - the part A and part B stuff. Buy it at an automobile supply house. Runs around $60/Qt and well worth the money.
Most manufacturers have relatively the same costs. This really shows up in the chemical industry which includes paint and coatings. If you can buy this part of the story, then logic will dictate that the more expensive product is the better product. So, is a gallon of varnish in HD for $15 as good as a quart of another brand for $25 ? Dont bet on it. I cant remember some of the brand names, and I do not have some of the catalogs handy, but if you go to Ace Hardware, or other hardware stores, Schooner Varnish sells for about $25 and I know its not as much as a quart, but its good stuff. Maybe you could split a can with someone? Another thing that adds to the price of paint and varnish is 'ease of application'. That means less drips and runs, quicker set-up time and higher percentage of solids ( the stuff that actually remains behind after the solvents have evaporated out of it). You get what you pay for. Also.......the woodworking industry is eons behind the automotive industry when it comes to paints and clear coats(polyurethanes). If you have had any experience with 2 component finishes - the part A and part B stuff. Buy it at an automobile supply house. Runs around $60/Qt and well worth the money.
Split up the varnish
I poured my varnish into small empty plastic water bottles. I fill the bottles all the way to the top so there is no air in them. This keeps the varnish fresh and you will only use varnish from one bottle at a time. Be sure to wipe the drip of varnish from the top of the bottle before putting the lid back on or it is a bear to get the top off the next time. I squeeze the bottle of varnish I'm using to bring the level of varnish up to the top of the bottle also no allowing air to get to the varnish. It has been working for me for quite some time now. The smaller the bottles, the better.
I poured my varnish into small empty plastic water bottles. I fill the bottles all the way to the top so there is no air in them. This keeps the varnish fresh and you will only use varnish from one bottle at a time. Be sure to wipe the drip of varnish from the top of the bottle before putting the lid back on or it is a bear to get the top off the next time. I squeeze the bottle of varnish I'm using to bring the level of varnish up to the top of the bottle also no allowing air to get to the varnish. It has been working for me for quite some time now. The smaller the bottles, the better.
- Status