Won't start - Just clicks

[remo7e]

I just hear a clicking sound coming from my relay switch when I try to start my motor.

First I thought it was the solenoid. Nope. Then I put on a rebuilt starter. Nope.

I can 'jump' the starter and it turns fine. I can easily hand crank start the motor. But when I push the starter button, all I get is 'click - click'.

I'm stumped.

 

[Hermit Scott]

Make sure your batteries are charged. Then clean the terminals from the battery to the starter.
I am 100% sure you have corroded terminals.

 

[Joe]

I agree with the Hermit.

 

[remo7e]

I have switched out the battery and I took a wire brush to the terminals. Still, I just hear 'click click'

 

[Bill Roosa]

You arlredy diagnosed the problem

You can jump across the hot to the start terminal and everything works so it has to be in the start control circuit (as most of us already know due to the frequency of this problem)
Hunter in its design has no less than 12 connections between the battery + and the battery - post in the engine start circuit

EVERY connection, EVERY single one of them has a voltage drop (resistance to current) across it. Now when you take the start terminal off the solenoid and put a volt meter across it and the engine ground with the start switch engaged you will get a pretty high voltage. But that is ONLY because there is no current flowing. If you reconnect the start circuit and then measure between it and engine ground while trying to start you will get a significantly lower (like 9) voltage. Just enough to engage the pinion gear but not enough to pull the solenoid all the way down and complete the circuit. hence the clicking but no cranking

That is the difference between resistance of a circuit and voltage drop in a circuit. Resistance is the value with no (ok a VERY small) current flowing and voltage drop is with the load current flowing.

There are three solutions that have proved successful
1) Replace the start wire (and some other ones too) with a single connection less (no wiring harness connectors) wire from start switch to solenoid
2) Place a second solenoid to control the start terminal and use the old wire to control it. Apparently treating the symptoms and not curing the patient IMHO but it works.
3) Install a new start switch near the engine that is "hot wired" to the batteries.

I'd recommend 1) as it has proven to permanently fix the problem. It is also the hardest to do. 2) does not fix the problem but it makes it go away for a good long time. 3) also provide a proven permanent fix but you have to leave the helm to get the engine started and there are occasional false starts as the cook and others work near the switch and hit it by accident. Really a placement issue more than anything.

 

[remo7e]

Re: You arlredy diagnosed the problem

#1 sounds like the way to do it. Anywhere I can get directions on just how to do it? I have a good trouble shooting book for diesel engines. Is there a good book out there for projects like this? The clicking sound comes from the relay switch, not the solenoid. Is that typical?

Thanks for your help with this. I really do appreciate it. I've been trying this and that for weeks now. I'm over in Japan which makes it 10 times harder to get parts, find information ,etc.

 

[Paul F]

Start switch

A good way to test what is going on is to make up a short starting switch wired directly from the battery to the starter. To do this take two heavy wires say 12 gauge and put a simple on/off switch between them. Turn the batteries off. Wire one end to the plus side of the battery or better yet on the plus side of the boats battery power switch. If you understand how the boat is wired this should not be hard. If it is, ask someone that knows to help you. Wire the other end of your made up switch wire to the relay replacing the boats starter button wire. You now have an engine test switch which can be used to test your starting system, bleed the engine and many other uses. With this tool you should be able to figure out why the starter is not working. Good luck.

 

[kenn]

Hi,

Just from your comments, I would blame the starter relay.

This is a fairly basic fault, so if you're having trouble diagnosing this, it would be best for you to get assistance from a knowledgable friend or a professional.

12 V systems don't present much of a shock hazard, but if you don't know what you're doing it's very easy to create a short circuit or draw an arc. These can cause personal injury or a fire. Please be careful.

 

[Tim R.]

Before you get too involved with the above suggestions, simply take one of your jumper cables and ground the engine with it. This is a very easy check that will ensure your engine ground is good.

 

[Benny]

Your problem most likely lie in the wiring harness between the engine and cockpit control panel. Give it a visual inspection by following from control box to engine. This may require some crawling in small spaces but it will be worth a recoignance trip to explore your boat's innards. Any break in the black tubing or tape inspect carefully for any breakage in the innard wires insulation. In olders boats this harness has been contending with hull flexing for years and especially around sharp fiberglass corners will wear into the wiring insulation and can cut into the copper wiring itself. Depending on which wires may be affected you may get a short, total loss of power or eratic gauge or buzzer response. Verify the connectors on the button and key switch but if they check out go to the harness. A multimeter may help confirm continuity on each individual wire in the harness to determine which is at fault if not clearly evident by visual inspection. For the time being you may install a button switch directly to the starter solenoid so you may not miss out on sailing.

 

[remo7e]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I'm on a navy base here and I've had 2 retired diesel mechs look at it and they are just as stumped.

When I figure this one out, I'll post what the verdict was.

 

[Paul F]

Starter

Sounds like it is time to take the starter off, take it to a shop and have it tested. Clicking could also mean a very low battery with no charge.

 

[remo7e]

After a great deal of work - solved the problem. I took the relay switch apart and found a poor soldering job on the wire that runs to the solenoid. Redid the soldering job and it starts fine. On the bright side: I replaced a whole lot of poor wiring and cleaned up a lot of jobs I might have never gotten around to. Thanks again to everyone for all their help and advice.