Wiring

Hoosier Kevin · Feb 22, 2006

Please keep us up to date!

I am so interested in what your plans are! If you could keep us in the loop = pictures would help!Key issues I am having - Shore Power - I read Casey Electronics simplified - seperating the AC from DC - and having a seperate AC breaker box - and he goes on to say use a 15 amp double pole breaker - I go to the West Marine catalog - NO CAN FIND! -I can't go any further until I get my plans straight on the breaker box - keep in mind old Don's got me scared to death with AC anyway - The other issue is - When do you need - and then where do you attach the ground wire? I know it is probably real simple - but I just don't get it? I got this copper bar through hull in my cockpit locker floor - is this where I attach?I am sure that there are others that have the same concern - especially when they inherit a breaker box that look like a bowl of spaghetti!Please - keep on posting as you make progress - with the specs on what you are using - where you purchased and cost -Thanks a ton -

Herb Parsons · Feb 23, 2006

Some Recommendations

Please note, I don't pretend to be an expert on this. Just a guy that has rewired one boat, and is in the process of another.First of all, Kevin, this is the type of part Don Casey is talking about in his book. You should be able to find them at West Marine, or oder them online from them or Defender.http://www.bluesea.com/dept.asp?d_id=7502&l1=7460&l2=7989Charley,Here are what would be MY concerns with your diagram (these are all my opinion only):There should be a breaker between the shore power plug and your charger. It should be very close to the shore power inlet.Along those lines, were it me, since I'm bringing in shore power anyway, I would put in a small distribution panel, and add a couple of 120 outlets. Very little additional work, expense, and danger, very large additional advantage.I would not run a ground for the DC. I would run negative wireing. The mixtures of electrical current, water, salt, and a wide variety of metals makes a ground less practical for a boat than it is for a car.

Mike · Feb 23, 2006

excellent diagram

I'm printing this one off for future reference.

Ed · Feb 23, 2006

I have a question

Why is the alternator isolated from the batteries via the switch? I have an outboard with charging circuit that is wired directly to the battery (no switch) so a charge is available whenever the motor runs. Is that a bad idea?

r.w.landau · Feb 23, 2006

charlyc

I think this is a good start but I would like to suggest some changes. I am going to try to diagram it like you did. Here is the thing. The charging sources should all go the the black post (in your diagram) on the 1/2/both/off switch. The distribution panel should also be on the black post. This can be done with a bus bar. You only need a diode on the positive lead of the solar panel. There should be a solar monitor between the panel and the switch.The shore power battery charger should not be grounded to the DC electric. Should something fail, 110 through a 12 volt system is not good. The Charger should rely on the ground in the shore power plug. Good reason to have a tester to test the shore power. Don't use a common car battery charger. They are dangerous on a boat. I suggest charging battery sources seperatey. Charge one battery or bank of batteries on #! and charge the other battery or bank of batteries on #2. This way you can keep like batteries(age wise) seperate from older or newer batteries. Batteries will charge to the best potential that the worst battery is capable of. The both on the switch is not that good of an Idea. The Off should only be used when there is no charging source or your are trying to make sure there is no power to the batteries.I am not sure if I have time to diagram that but if you redo do yours, I will verify it.r.w.landau

r.w.landau · Feb 23, 2006

Charlyc, I can't get my visio program to

diagram this. What program are you using?The fuses should be near the battery on the positive lug. This insures that if the battery starts to short out the fus will blow. There should be nothing betwen the battey and the fuse.r.w.landau

r.w.landau · Feb 23, 2006

Getting close....

The ground buss isgood now add a positive bus. Connect the alternator, shore power charger, Distribution panel and the solar panel to the positive bus. Then connect the positive bus to the black connection on the switch. Specific items ...The charger: remove the ground that goes to the 12 volt system.The Solar panel: between the solar panel and the positive bus, install one diode on the positive line and after that a solar charge monitor that keeps you from frying your batteries if the system is charged.Add fuses between the switch and the batteries on the positive leads.r.w.landau

r.w.landau · Feb 23, 2006

Sorry, you already put the fuses in the battery

legs. r.w.landau

r.w.landau · Feb 23, 2006

Charlyc, a 10 watt is not worth noting.

Put the ten watt on a cigarette plug and plug it into the system. 10watts divided by 12 volts = .83 amps.If you have an 80 amp/hour battery you want to charge it when it hits 50%. The 80 amps at 50% is 40 amp hours. It would take 40 hoours of full sun to put 33 amp hours back into your battery. Remember that charging is not 100% efficient. You probably put about 80% of your charge back into the battery. My Panel is about 20 watts. If I work at keeping my batteries up all weekend, the solar panel would over charge my batteries. A solar controler might cost max,$40. If it saves a $100 battery it is worth it.r.w.landau

r.w.landau · Feb 23, 2006

I have a single bank 110 battery charger,

that changes the diagram.In the charger diagram, the ground is to an ac source not a 12 volt I will review the last main diagram and get back.r.w.landau

r.w.landau · Feb 23, 2006

The charger circuit looks good except for the

ground to the 12 volt neg bus. The connection of the charger should be between the switch and the fuse then the battery.What need changed in post #9 is the solar panel connections and the charger ground.You could keep the solar panel connection like you have it but 10 watts would be better pumped into one battery at a time.r.w.landau

r.w.landau · Feb 23, 2006

Charlyc, I have a single 6 amp shore power charger

a solar panel and the alternator from the motor.That is what I have previously described. The two/three battery charger through me off.Everything else should be as I described before. When leaving the boat, I would check voltage on both battery systems then use the solar panel to focus on the least charged. (unless you get a much larger panel).

r.w.landau · Feb 23, 2006

Charlyc

My e-mail address is rwlandau@aol.com. Send your day phone # and I will try to explain this. Unfortunately the multibattery charger has complicated my previous info and I want to make sure you understand what I am saying. Doesn't mean that is how you set your boat up. This is just what I chose.r.w.landau

r.w.landau · Feb 24, 2006

Carlyc looks fine to me.

r.w.landau

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