So the new head is in, and it calls for an 18 amp fuse or breaker. My old 6 - position fuse box is still in fine shape, and has space to solder in a new appliance, but I'm pretty sure its 'rated' at only 15 amps. Must I install a separate breaker switch directly between the battery switch and the head, or can I just finesse it by just using a 15 amp fuse, or maybe an 18 amp fuse, in my old fuse box? The length of run is only about 10 feet.
- Status
It depends...
Which make model toilet did you install? If it's a toilet designed to use onboard pressurized flush water, it draws only 10A, so a 15a fuse SHOULD be adequate. But if it's a raw water toilet, they draw at least 16A (some a lot more), so a 15a fuse or breaker would not be adequate. Best to ask the mfr's tech support what you need for your toilet though. Your comment that the wiring run is only 10' raises the question of another possible problem: If you didn't realize that wiring distances are NOT one way, but round-trip (iow, 10' from the battery is actually 20' of wire--and the distance the wire size should be based on)), you may not have used the right wire size. That can cause all kinds of problems, not the least of which is a fire hazard due to overheating wiring.
Which make model toilet did you install? If it's a toilet designed to use onboard pressurized flush water, it draws only 10A, so a 15a fuse SHOULD be adequate. But if it's a raw water toilet, they draw at least 16A (some a lot more), so a 15a fuse or breaker would not be adequate. Best to ask the mfr's tech support what you need for your toilet though. Your comment that the wiring run is only 10' raises the question of another possible problem: If you didn't realize that wiring distances are NOT one way, but round-trip (iow, 10' from the battery is actually 20' of wire--and the distance the wire size should be based on)), you may not have used the right wire size. That can cause all kinds of problems, not the least of which is a fire hazard due to overheating wiring.
- Status