I recently purchased an O'day 22, 1976 model. I am in need of a wiring diagram for this model. I am electrically challenged, and need some help. Anybody have any sage advice I can use for this model? Thanks one and all, in advance.
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Stu Timm
Wiring 101
Hi Scott: I did a little rewiring on my 22 a few years ago (new distribution panel, main leads and accessory wiring). The boat's wired for 12 volt DC and is fairly easy to figure out. All you need to do is do a little polking around to see what goes where. There's a wiring diagram (factory) for the Oday 25 which is similar to the 22's, on either this website or the sister "Unofficial Oday Owner's" website. Your boat (like mine) probably had what stock wiring that it came with, altered throughout it's life. Look for thicker, colored wires (blue, orange, red). These are the basic factory wires that the boat may have come with. As I recall, the blue wires ran to the bow, and the mast, and the orange wires were for the cabin lighting. The red lead was the battery lead and accessories perhaps. All wiring in a DC system is paired, one going (colored)from the panel and one returning (white or black)as a ground to the panel. When wiring anew, keep the return wiring to a constant color so as to make identification easy. Alternate your positive wiring to each zone or use to identify what's what. The boats came with a fairly heavy 12 guage copper jacketed wiring, and unless the connections are poor, it holds up fairly well over time. Just check for corrosion at the joints. Connections can be crimped with compresion type connectors or soldered with tin solder for those diehards. Most of my line connections are crimped, and the leads to the panels and battery were soldered. I taped all my criomped and soldered connections with electrical tape and labled everything with white electrical tape and an indelible marker. When I replaced my circuit panel, I rewired the mast lighting to create a seperate anchor and steaming light setup (COLREGS-mandated) as well as added a lead for the new radio and additional cabin lighting. I can send you a wiring diagram in a Excel format if you want that will give you an idea of what you can do. You should try and trace and test all your wiring before you work. Unless of course you want to pull it all out and start anew. Caution: The factory wiring is run in places that are no longer accessible to the novice owner. So save what wiring you can that is run to the mast, cabin and bow. Running new wires out of sight can be a chore. If you want the diagram, please let me know through this message on the website. Regards, Stu Timm "Karakahl" 1979 O'Day 22 centerboard Centerport, Long Island.
Hi Scott: I did a little rewiring on my 22 a few years ago (new distribution panel, main leads and accessory wiring). The boat's wired for 12 volt DC and is fairly easy to figure out. All you need to do is do a little polking around to see what goes where. There's a wiring diagram (factory) for the Oday 25 which is similar to the 22's, on either this website or the sister "Unofficial Oday Owner's" website. Your boat (like mine) probably had what stock wiring that it came with, altered throughout it's life. Look for thicker, colored wires (blue, orange, red). These are the basic factory wires that the boat may have come with. As I recall, the blue wires ran to the bow, and the mast, and the orange wires were for the cabin lighting. The red lead was the battery lead and accessories perhaps. All wiring in a DC system is paired, one going (colored)from the panel and one returning (white or black)as a ground to the panel. When wiring anew, keep the return wiring to a constant color so as to make identification easy. Alternate your positive wiring to each zone or use to identify what's what. The boats came with a fairly heavy 12 guage copper jacketed wiring, and unless the connections are poor, it holds up fairly well over time. Just check for corrosion at the joints. Connections can be crimped with compresion type connectors or soldered with tin solder for those diehards. Most of my line connections are crimped, and the leads to the panels and battery were soldered. I taped all my criomped and soldered connections with electrical tape and labled everything with white electrical tape and an indelible marker. When I replaced my circuit panel, I rewired the mast lighting to create a seperate anchor and steaming light setup (COLREGS-mandated) as well as added a lead for the new radio and additional cabin lighting. I can send you a wiring diagram in a Excel format if you want that will give you an idea of what you can do. You should try and trace and test all your wiring before you work. Unless of course you want to pull it all out and start anew. Caution: The factory wiring is run in places that are no longer accessible to the novice owner. So save what wiring you can that is run to the mast, cabin and bow. Running new wires out of sight can be a chore. If you want the diagram, please let me know through this message on the website. Regards, Stu Timm "Karakahl" 1979 O'Day 22 centerboard Centerport, Long Island.
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scott steinbrecher
wiring woes
Thank you so much for the info. Sorry I took so long to get back to you, my wife had a death in the family. The info you provided will help, and, yes, I would appreciate your wiring diagram very much. Here is another question: I need the GPS in the cockpit, for active navigation, and one in the cabin, connected to the laptop for The Capn navigation software. Do you think a swiveling mount in the companionway would work? That is, swivle it out, to view it from the cockpit, swivle it in to view from the cabin, thus having a common plug in from the GPS to the computer? This is my first forray into computerized navigation, I'm used to a compass and paper chart Not to mention a lead line, and "local knowledge". Any thoughts? Thank you very much for your help. Fair winds, reef early, Scott S
Thank you so much for the info. Sorry I took so long to get back to you, my wife had a death in the family. The info you provided will help, and, yes, I would appreciate your wiring diagram very much. Here is another question: I need the GPS in the cockpit, for active navigation, and one in the cabin, connected to the laptop for The Capn navigation software. Do you think a swiveling mount in the companionway would work? That is, swivle it out, to view it from the cockpit, swivle it in to view from the cabin, thus having a common plug in from the GPS to the computer? This is my first forray into computerized navigation, I'm used to a compass and paper chart Not to mention a lead line, and "local knowledge". Any thoughts? Thank you very much for your help. Fair winds, reef early, Scott S
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Stu Timm
Swiveling GPS
Hi Scott: I am working with the webmaster to get the wiring diagram posted on the site, but can send it to you if you want. E-mail me at: stuart@arenvironetics.com As far as the GPS and PC rig, sounds ambitious. I have no recollection of any trailer sailor having that much electrical hardware running on a small boat. I presume the GPS and the Laptop will be under their own independent power supplies. A swivel can work, and I've seen it done for larger cruising boats and fishing boats as well. It will take up room in an already small cabin. My GPS is a garmin handheld and is rarely used in my bay and harbor-bound sailing adventures. I just click it "on" and leave it in the cockpit somewhere, sometimes in the winch basket if need be. Also, O'Day 22's can get wet if there is a chop or a blow running, so protect your equipment by keeping it inside the cabin. I suppose the swivel rack must not roll about as the boat heels and rolls, thereby needing a lock of sorts on the swivel. The cabin back wall is offset 5 degrees from the true vertical, so swivel mounts must be adjusted for the cant. Also watch for compass interference from the PC drive and power supply. Where you mount your radio might also affect your PA and GPS if broadcasting full power. It's a small boat - carefully locate things! Good Sailing (whenever the ice melts!) Stu Timm "Karakahl" 1979 O'day 22 centerboard Centerport, NY
Hi Scott: I am working with the webmaster to get the wiring diagram posted on the site, but can send it to you if you want. E-mail me at: stuart@arenvironetics.com As far as the GPS and PC rig, sounds ambitious. I have no recollection of any trailer sailor having that much electrical hardware running on a small boat. I presume the GPS and the Laptop will be under their own independent power supplies. A swivel can work, and I've seen it done for larger cruising boats and fishing boats as well. It will take up room in an already small cabin. My GPS is a garmin handheld and is rarely used in my bay and harbor-bound sailing adventures. I just click it "on" and leave it in the cockpit somewhere, sometimes in the winch basket if need be. Also, O'Day 22's can get wet if there is a chop or a blow running, so protect your equipment by keeping it inside the cabin. I suppose the swivel rack must not roll about as the boat heels and rolls, thereby needing a lock of sorts on the swivel. The cabin back wall is offset 5 degrees from the true vertical, so swivel mounts must be adjusted for the cant. Also watch for compass interference from the PC drive and power supply. Where you mount your radio might also affect your PA and GPS if broadcasting full power. It's a small boat - carefully locate things! Good Sailing (whenever the ice melts!) Stu Timm "Karakahl" 1979 O'day 22 centerboard Centerport, NY
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Mike C
gps
considering the size of the 22's cabin, I would think that a a handheld gps would do fine ( that's what I use) most of the manufacturers of gps sell brackets to hold a handheld gps ( or you can get inventive and build one that can swivel next to the companionway door) ( I do that with my depth gauge) as far as wiring it to your laptop, I'm sure that it can be done with a handheld. For power, install a 12v car lighter adapter in the cabin. Just remember that a laptop will draw TONS of power, thus the need for either an altanator on the outboard, or a solar panel to recharge the battery ( unless you are planning on using the laptop battery, but that will only give you limited power time. If you are planning on sailing away from the sight of land, I'd be more concerned with the boat than with the navigation. I usually use my gps to plot submerged rocks, VMG and SOG ( all which are helpful when racing on weekends) most of my sailing is done within sight of land.
considering the size of the 22's cabin, I would think that a a handheld gps would do fine ( that's what I use) most of the manufacturers of gps sell brackets to hold a handheld gps ( or you can get inventive and build one that can swivel next to the companionway door) ( I do that with my depth gauge) as far as wiring it to your laptop, I'm sure that it can be done with a handheld. For power, install a 12v car lighter adapter in the cabin. Just remember that a laptop will draw TONS of power, thus the need for either an altanator on the outboard, or a solar panel to recharge the battery ( unless you are planning on using the laptop battery, but that will only give you limited power time. If you are planning on sailing away from the sight of land, I'd be more concerned with the boat than with the navigation. I usually use my gps to plot submerged rocks, VMG and SOG ( all which are helpful when racing on weekends) most of my sailing is done within sight of land.
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Mark Reiland s/v Cattivo I Oday 23
wiring
Hello Scott, I'm right in the middle of my complete re-wiring of my 1972 Oday 23. The previous wiring set-up was a shambles and wasn't even to marine standards in all facets of the meaning! I was amazed that the boat didn't burn to the waterline let alone keep the lights running! Stu Timm's message to you is very point to work from! I'm working on the same basis. Only thing I'm not doing is buying color coded 12 awg wire for each application. I simply used Red and Black Ancor wire for all the applications. I did support the wiring to ABYC standards (every 18") but overall, it's coming along good. If you need any ideas or help, let me know Mark Reiland s/v Cattivo I 1972 Oday 23 Green Bay, Wisconsin
Hello Scott, I'm right in the middle of my complete re-wiring of my 1972 Oday 23. The previous wiring set-up was a shambles and wasn't even to marine standards in all facets of the meaning! I was amazed that the boat didn't burn to the waterline let alone keep the lights running! Stu Timm's message to you is very point to work from! I'm working on the same basis. Only thing I'm not doing is buying color coded 12 awg wire for each application. I simply used Red and Black Ancor wire for all the applications. I did support the wiring to ABYC standards (every 18") but overall, it's coming along good. If you need any ideas or help, let me know Mark Reiland s/v Cattivo I 1972 Oday 23 Green Bay, Wisconsin
Stu, about your mast lighting setup...
...how did you wire the steaming and anchor lights? I have a working anchor light, but the steaming light doesn't work. I'm going to be looking into the steaming light soon. On the original DC panel, there is no provision for the steaming light, so I've been looking into getting a new panel with more switches. I also thought of adding a spreader light, but don't know how I can get that easily wired up.... Adam
...how did you wire the steaming and anchor lights? I have a working anchor light, but the steaming light doesn't work. I'm going to be looking into the steaming light soon. On the original DC panel, there is no provision for the steaming light, so I've been looking into getting a new panel with more switches. I also thought of adding a spreader light, but don't know how I can get that easily wired up.... Adam
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Terry
Swivel Mount
Scott, I agree with Mike's assesment of your power usage from a laptop on a longterm basis. As for a swivel mount, I made one for my '83 O'Day 23 which swings in and out of the companionway. I use it to hold a fish-finder which I use as a depthfinder. I'll do my best to explain the installation without diagrams. The basic piece I used to make the mount was a two-piece rod holder. The base was designed for a vertical install on a gunnel and the "ratcheted" rod holder can be rotated by lifting it slightly from the base and turning it to a new locked position. I then cut off the round rod holding part so that I had a flat arm which I could rotate and lock on a vertical mounting base. I attached a 1x2x6" piece of teak to the arm and in turn used this to hold the fish finder manufacturer's mounting bracket. I placed this on the bulkhead just inside the companionway. Now I can use the depth finder while underway and the swing it out of the way while at anchor. Sorry about no photos or diagrams. Terry
Scott, I agree with Mike's assesment of your power usage from a laptop on a longterm basis. As for a swivel mount, I made one for my '83 O'Day 23 which swings in and out of the companionway. I use it to hold a fish-finder which I use as a depthfinder. I'll do my best to explain the installation without diagrams. The basic piece I used to make the mount was a two-piece rod holder. The base was designed for a vertical install on a gunnel and the "ratcheted" rod holder can be rotated by lifting it slightly from the base and turning it to a new locked position. I then cut off the round rod holding part so that I had a flat arm which I could rotate and lock on a vertical mounting base. I attached a 1x2x6" piece of teak to the arm and in turn used this to hold the fish finder manufacturer's mounting bracket. I placed this on the bulkhead just inside the companionway. Now I can use the depth finder while underway and the swing it out of the way while at anchor. Sorry about no photos or diagrams. Terry
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Stu Timm
Masthead Lighting
Hi Adam: I had a 4 circuit panel that came with my 1979 Oday 22 out of the factory. It had switches for the following: 1. Cabin lights 2. Running lights 3. Bow lights 4. Accessories There was a second panel added by a previous owner that had several other circuits. The main "house" panel did the folowing: 1. The CABIN LIGHTS circuit ran the two interior lights in the cabin via a orange wire. 2. The RUNNING LIGHTS ran the bow port and starboard (red and green) running lights as well as the aft running lights, and wsa fed with a blue wire. 3. The "BOW LIGHTS" were actually the singular masthead light that my boat came with. The O'day 22 did not come with a anchor light, but had (at least mine did) a steaming light on the front face of the mast 2/3 the way up. Oddly enough, the light fixture was an all-around type, mounted on it's side versus a 225 degree forward facing one. I suspect it was added later on. A small black wire fed this which I suspect is not the original. 4. The ACCESSORIES circuit powered the other panel which was mostly corroded and useless. Both panels were at the end of teir safe, useful lives. So,,,,, I ripped it all out, not trusting what I saw. I bought a BlueSeas 7-circuit panel, a bit of overkill, but worth it. It came with a voltmeter to check the battery voltage. I left the leads to the bow and cabin lights. I replaced the runs to the mast as well as the battery lead and the motor alternator lead. The mast has now, a proper 225 forward facing steaming light run to a seperate switch. It is not run to the running lights which are on their own seperate switch. I installed a all-around anchor light on the masthead and wired that to a another circuit. The anchor light and steaming light are on a shared ground. (I cheated there). The deck connection at the bottom of the mast is with a three-prong connector from West Marine, (2) positive leads, one for the anchor light, and one for the steaming light, and (1) negative lead (shared). The new set up allows me to run either the standard running lights when under sail at night, or the running lights PLUS the masthead steaming light when I am motoring at night, and the anchor light alone, when I anchor out for a snug evening's outing. The entire rig runs on a single 12 volt battery with a solar trickle charger backup. Never had a problem with lack of power, but being a sailor, I am a watt-miser! The new mast leads had to be run exposed so I tucked them where I could as best as possible, and couldn't fish a electrician's snake through the inner layer between the deck and the cabin ceiling. If you need more info, just drop me a line at mitshu@juno.com I have a wiring diagram that can be sent to you if you want. Happy Sailing and keep hoping for the ice to melt! Stu Timm "Karakahl" 1979 O'Day 22 centerboard Centerport, Long Island
Hi Adam: I had a 4 circuit panel that came with my 1979 Oday 22 out of the factory. It had switches for the following: 1. Cabin lights 2. Running lights 3. Bow lights 4. Accessories There was a second panel added by a previous owner that had several other circuits. The main "house" panel did the folowing: 1. The CABIN LIGHTS circuit ran the two interior lights in the cabin via a orange wire. 2. The RUNNING LIGHTS ran the bow port and starboard (red and green) running lights as well as the aft running lights, and wsa fed with a blue wire. 3. The "BOW LIGHTS" were actually the singular masthead light that my boat came with. The O'day 22 did not come with a anchor light, but had (at least mine did) a steaming light on the front face of the mast 2/3 the way up. Oddly enough, the light fixture was an all-around type, mounted on it's side versus a 225 degree forward facing one. I suspect it was added later on. A small black wire fed this which I suspect is not the original. 4. The ACCESSORIES circuit powered the other panel which was mostly corroded and useless. Both panels were at the end of teir safe, useful lives. So,,,,, I ripped it all out, not trusting what I saw. I bought a BlueSeas 7-circuit panel, a bit of overkill, but worth it. It came with a voltmeter to check the battery voltage. I left the leads to the bow and cabin lights. I replaced the runs to the mast as well as the battery lead and the motor alternator lead. The mast has now, a proper 225 forward facing steaming light run to a seperate switch. It is not run to the running lights which are on their own seperate switch. I installed a all-around anchor light on the masthead and wired that to a another circuit. The anchor light and steaming light are on a shared ground. (I cheated there). The deck connection at the bottom of the mast is with a three-prong connector from West Marine, (2) positive leads, one for the anchor light, and one for the steaming light, and (1) negative lead (shared). The new set up allows me to run either the standard running lights when under sail at night, or the running lights PLUS the masthead steaming light when I am motoring at night, and the anchor light alone, when I anchor out for a snug evening's outing. The entire rig runs on a single 12 volt battery with a solar trickle charger backup. Never had a problem with lack of power, but being a sailor, I am a watt-miser! The new mast leads had to be run exposed so I tucked them where I could as best as possible, and couldn't fish a electrician's snake through the inner layer between the deck and the cabin ceiling. If you need more info, just drop me a line at mitshu@juno.com I have a wiring diagram that can be sent to you if you want. Happy Sailing and keep hoping for the ice to melt! Stu Timm "Karakahl" 1979 O'Day 22 centerboard Centerport, Long Island
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