Wiring Repair Ideas?

Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,132
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
OK, I have been chasing wiring issues on my '94 vintage boat. Among them was rewiring the bow pulpit for the bow nav lights, pulling new line for the stern light, and new connections for the macerator. One that remains is to rewire a sump pump from an in-bath switch to the pump. The issue is that a splice separated down the wiring run. So, the wiring run goes from just near a lower cabinet door next to the head, down past all the through hulls in the cabinet, through about a 3" circular cut out in the inner liner and then between the inner liner and hull to the shower sump and entering the shower sump in the same 1 1/4" hole occupied by the shower sump discharge hose and then to the pump. The distance from the cabinet hole to the sump wire entry is about 30". So, what I have tried is having a endoscope affixed to some wire (later 1/4" copper pipe) and leading it from under the cabinet to the area where the wire exits the shower sump. I have been able to spot the wire but have been unsuccessful hooking it to pull it back. Then I had issues with the endoscope that stopped progress.
I ordered another endoscope with an attached camera (vs' the cell phone). So here is my next try: get some flexible steel ribbon, maybe a 1/4" wide. Solder the end of the sump pump wire to it. Push it into the space between the liner and hull. Take a couple of button magnets and solder them to the copper tube I am using from under the cabinet. Using the endoscope, feed that tube to find the steel ribbon piece and then pull it back to the cabinet.
I considered drilling a hole for the wire somewhere else, but looking at it critically, it would only complicate the process. So, any other suggestions, comments, comentary or snide remarks?
 
Dec 2, 2003
751
Hunter 260 winnipeg, Manitoba
Two suggestions I would have would be to acquire or borrow an electricians wire snake and a small diameter fibreglass rod set. Both are fairly rigid so allow some manipulation and the rod set can be equipped with a hook to allow you to use one to catch the other.

Once you have either one fed from end to end you can tie your new wire to one and pull it back.

C4B78EAF-BFB3-4E66-9CC3-B690B11FCDC2.jpeg
 

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Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,132
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
Two suggestions I would have would be to acquire or borrow an electricians wire snake and a small diameter fibreglass rod set. Both are fairly rigid so allow some manipulation and the rod set can be equipped with a hook to allow you to use one to catch the other.

Once you have either one fed from end to end you can tie your new wire to one and pull it back.

View attachment 177580
Great idea. I have both and they were a life saver on the running light wiring. However these don't work under the cabinet. Too sharp a turn and little room.
 
Nov 21, 2012
587
Yamaha 33 Port Ludlow, WA
Vacuum cleaner sometimes works to pull wires. Run a tube from the end of the vacuum and suck up a leader string, then pull the wire through.
 
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Feb 10, 2004
3,918
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
Under the "snide remarks" category - How about a wireless sump pump?

Sorry, Rick. I have not had to do this job. Let me think a little and maybe I will actually have something constructive.

BTW, which shower sump has the problem? Forward or main head?
 
Nov 12, 2009
238
J/ 32 NCYC, Western Lake Erie
Any chance you could put double sided tape or something sticky like butyl tape on the end of a fish or your endoscope to "grab" the end of the wire?
 
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Rick D

.
Jun 14, 2008
7,132
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
Under the "snide remarks" category - How about a wireless sump pump?

Sorry, Rick. I have not had to do this job. Let me think a little and maybe I will actually have something constructive.

BTW, which shower sump has the problem? Forward or main head?
Main head, Rich...
 
Feb 10, 2004
3,918
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
I may have found a "back door" for you.

I have needed to route wiring from under the aft berth to the NAV station, and the route that I took was under the aft cabin floor, through the vanity cabinet in the main head and then up to the NAV station.

Attached are a couple pictures that show factory access holes under the floor section in the aft cabin. This section is adjacent to the door to the main head. In the first picture on the left you can see the edge of the peanut-shaped sump cover in the head.

I'll bet that you can get to the wiring through that access hole. IIRC you can simply remove the screws on that floor section and remove it without disassembling anything else.

20190727_095223.jpg 20190727_095241.jpg
 
Oct 26, 2010
1,883
Hunter 40.5 Beaufort, SC
I may have found a "back door" for you.

Attached are a couple pictures that show factory access holes under the floor section in the aft cabin. This section is adjacent to the door to the main head. In the first picture on the left you can see the edge of the peanut-shaped sump cover in the head.
Rich - odd I don't have any such access holes in that floor pan just outside of the aft door to the head? Are you sure they are factory access holes or did the PO put this in. Good idea though. I have routed lines under that floor but it was really a PITA. Dan
 
Feb 10, 2004
3,918
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
Rich - odd I don't have any such access holes in that floor pan just outside of the aft door to the head? Are you sure they are factory access holes or did the PO put this in. Good idea though. I have routed lines under that floor but it was really a PITA. Dan
Dan- Yes they are factory access holes. We bought this 1997 boat new so there was no PO. But Hunter evolves their design and fabrication processes so maybe these holes are a later feature.
 
Oct 26, 2010
1,883
Hunter 40.5 Beaufort, SC
Dan- Yes they are factory access holes. We bought this 1997 boat new so there was no PO. But Hunter evolves their design and fabrication processes so maybe these holes are a later feature.
I may add access holes. Is it possible the commissioning yard did it? The reason I ask is that the holes seem a little "sloppy" and they do not have the corrugated chafe protector I see on the other factory holes of that size that I have in my boat? In any case, I like it and since I have a few wires to run or re-route I it looks like a good solution
 
Feb 10, 2004
3,918
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
I may add access holes. Is it possible the commissioning yard did it? The reason I ask is that the holes seem a little "sloppy" and they do not have the corrugated chafe protector I see on the other factory holes of that size that I have in my boat? In any case, I like it and since I have a few wires to run or re-route I it looks like a good solution
I don't think the yard made the holes because I was the first one to run any wiring through them. As for the lack of chafe protection, these holes had nothing to protect from the factory and they are in an area that would not generally be accessed by an owner.
 
Oct 26, 2010
1,883
Hunter 40.5 Beaufort, SC
It looks like there is a small hole drilled in the center of the pan and another hole in the corner. Is that correct? I would assume they are factory original but I'm not sure for what purpose. I don't have those holes. Do you have similar access holes and holes in the bottom of the other side of the aft cabin or any other pans below cabin sole?
 
Feb 10, 2004
3,918
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
The 1" hole in the corner is a drain hole to the bilge. I can't imagine any water ever getting in there that would need to drain. The small hole is also factory and I have no clue why it is present.
 

Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,132
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
I may have found a "back door" for you.
Well, lookie there! It's been so long since I had that panel up, I can't remember if there is a hole or not. I don't think so. Regardless, a hole saw would fix that. Thanks so much! I know Smokey didn't have an access panel to the siphon break in the main head that I have. Running changes.
 
Apr 8, 2010
1,942
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
I have added one of their larger access plates to a molded FRP vertical surface in our head compartment to make getting at hoses and valves a LOT easier. While we seldom need this, when we do need it we are very glad it's there!
 
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Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,132
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
Well, thanks to Rich and the rest of you, I found an access hole that turned my sixth try of feeding this lead into a success! I was able to locate the wire, pull it through, feed a leader there and pull the wire back to the switch. Total time, thirty minutes and few curse words. Check that off!
IMG_20200427_114858069.jpg
IMG_20200427_114858069.jpg
 
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