I wish to re-do the wiring on my O Day 22.I purchased the 12 Volt Bible and have spent much time in looking through many of the popular boating electrics books.I know how to size the wire for the load(s)etc.,but I am still unsure of the correct use of terminal strips and bus bars.I am planing to have all the "grounds" go to one common bar,and then a properly sized large gauge wire go to the battery.But I am not sure of the positive side of things.I have only a few lights I wish to keep seperate,and the 5 switch panel can handle that,but I cant figure out how I can have the Instruments,(GPS FISHFINDER RADIO STEREO) have a switch to themselves.I am not sure how the panel switch and the terminal strips work together.I cant seem to find much info on the actual wiring.Many charts and graphs for amps and wire gauge,but not much info on how to actually connect things. Any info would be a big help, LLOYD
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S. Sauer
Zap, Pow , Crackle!
Ok, if you're sure you want to try it... I'd recommend "Your Boat's Electrical System, by Conrad Miller and E.S. Maloney as the best info I've seen directed specifically to boats, however, if you really haven't figured out your watts from your ohms, take a look at Black & Decker's books, possibly "Advanced Home Wiring" which should help with the 110 side. Afterall, YOU probably won't get fried on your 12 volt system, but your electronics might not fare so well. Most of us have one of those wonderfully gifted Electrical Engineer friends in our sailing group, and I'm sure there are several reading this Forum. Go slowly and read all the instructions several times, and if in doubt -stop and check with an expert - I only play one on TV.
Ok, if you're sure you want to try it... I'd recommend "Your Boat's Electrical System, by Conrad Miller and E.S. Maloney as the best info I've seen directed specifically to boats, however, if you really haven't figured out your watts from your ohms, take a look at Black & Decker's books, possibly "Advanced Home Wiring" which should help with the 110 side. Afterall, YOU probably won't get fried on your 12 volt system, but your electronics might not fare so well. Most of us have one of those wonderfully gifted Electrical Engineer friends in our sailing group, and I'm sure there are several reading this Forum. Go slowly and read all the instructions several times, and if in doubt -stop and check with an expert - I only play one on TV.
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Don Flowers
A little more information.
I guess the first question I have is about the 5 switch panel you have, are they switches or breakers? If they are only switches you need to have some system to where any over-amping of a given circuit is interupted with some type of protection device, Fuse, breaker etc. If they are breakers it will be much easier. You will see on the back of your panel a common "Positive" pole that joins all the breakers together on one side. We will call that an "incoming" side of the breaker. That side (incoming) "positive" will be fed by a wire carrying 12 VDC(volts D/C)from the battery, or battery switch if you have one planed for your system. Anyway, the incoming side of the breaker will be fed from voltage from the battery. The other side of the breaker will feed to your desired "loads." A "load" is anything that requires voltage to operate: lights, radios, bilge pumps, etc. thats the "outlet" side of the breaker. Think of your breaker as a water valve, water in one side, the valve turns it on/off, the water exits the other side. It's really that simple. Electricity in one side electricity out the other side, and the breaker or switch either allows the voltage through when on and doesn't when turned off. As far as how to hook-up your electronics to one breaker, put the electronics you want together on the same breaker. How to determine the correct terminal ends are easy. They are color coded, I think they go something like this: red is for wire size 16-18, blue is for wire size 12-14, and yellow is for wire sizes 10-12. When you are shopping for them they are marked as the size wire you would use that terminal for. As far as the terminal strips on the back of the panel there should be only one terminal strip on the back of the panel, and it will be for the "negative" wires. I prefer to use the designation "negative" rather than ground since the terminal that wire is from is the "negative" side of the battery. If you have any more questions feel free to e-mail me at my above address. Hope I helped. Don Flowers Rockport, Tx.
I guess the first question I have is about the 5 switch panel you have, are they switches or breakers? If they are only switches you need to have some system to where any over-amping of a given circuit is interupted with some type of protection device, Fuse, breaker etc. If they are breakers it will be much easier. You will see on the back of your panel a common "Positive" pole that joins all the breakers together on one side. We will call that an "incoming" side of the breaker. That side (incoming) "positive" will be fed by a wire carrying 12 VDC(volts D/C)from the battery, or battery switch if you have one planed for your system. Anyway, the incoming side of the breaker will be fed from voltage from the battery. The other side of the breaker will feed to your desired "loads." A "load" is anything that requires voltage to operate: lights, radios, bilge pumps, etc. thats the "outlet" side of the breaker. Think of your breaker as a water valve, water in one side, the valve turns it on/off, the water exits the other side. It's really that simple. Electricity in one side electricity out the other side, and the breaker or switch either allows the voltage through when on and doesn't when turned off. As far as how to hook-up your electronics to one breaker, put the electronics you want together on the same breaker. How to determine the correct terminal ends are easy. They are color coded, I think they go something like this: red is for wire size 16-18, blue is for wire size 12-14, and yellow is for wire sizes 10-12. When you are shopping for them they are marked as the size wire you would use that terminal for. As far as the terminal strips on the back of the panel there should be only one terminal strip on the back of the panel, and it will be for the "negative" wires. I prefer to use the designation "negative" rather than ground since the terminal that wire is from is the "negative" side of the battery. If you have any more questions feel free to e-mail me at my above address. Hope I helped. Don Flowers Rockport, Tx.
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Tom s/v GAIA
Power Panel
Hi Lloyd, There isn't any way I could cover the subject as well as 'The 12 volt bible' so I'm not going to try. But it's not rocket science, don't make it harder than it is. Re-read the book, then try drawing a diagram of the system you want, Red for pos, Black for neg. As far as switch panels, (not enough switches), run a heavy gauge POS wire from the ACC terminal of your panel to ANOTHER panels power in terminal. That second panel can control just your electronics. Worked for me, looks good in the "nav station" too. Keep us posted. Sail Safe! tom s/v GAIA
Hi Lloyd, There isn't any way I could cover the subject as well as 'The 12 volt bible' so I'm not going to try. But it's not rocket science, don't make it harder than it is. Re-read the book, then try drawing a diagram of the system you want, Red for pos, Black for neg. As far as switch panels, (not enough switches), run a heavy gauge POS wire from the ACC terminal of your panel to ANOTHER panels power in terminal. That second panel can control just your electronics. Worked for me, looks good in the "nav station" too. Keep us posted. Sail Safe! tom s/v GAIA
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Debra B
breakers and wiring - random thoughts
You said you have switches for lights - as someone else asked are these breakers? If you don't have breakers, do you know where all the fuses are? I have all my cabin lights on 1 breaker, since I have replaced everything with low amp zenon lights and few fluorescents (then I turn each light on at the light). Another for running lights, one for deck lights, one for fans, etc. Breakers are listed in amps, circuits or items you install are listed in watts. Watts = volts X amps. So in a 12 Volt system amps = watts/12. And when you buy instruments, etc. they will tell you what size breaker (or fuse) must be installed. There are also slow and fast acting breakers. Fast are typically for electronics. Breakers have a Line and Load side. Line goes back to your batter switch. Load connects to the circuit/item you are controlling. It is important to get them right. I don't really like the 12 Volt Bible. Try The Marine Electrical and Electronics Bible. More complete. Actually any high school physics text should have a decent chapter on electric circuits. Check your local library. Once you learn this stuff, you will only want a decent reference for the tricky stuff. Be careful using old breakers for new electronics. The wattage of modern electronics is MUCH LESS than the old days. The breakers may be too big for the circuit. You may also need fast acting ones for new electronics. Be conservative on wire gauge - larger is always better. It is also more expensive. Don't use single wires, run circuits using 2 conductor wire. Too many fires have been caused by confusing DC ground with AC power - both black. Avoid that by running complete circuits back to your breaker panel. Don't add things to a convenient circuit, unless a) it really makes sense, and b) you verify that the new load will work with the existing breaker - in which case the existing breaker may be too large for the old load. Connections are important. Crimped connections are good. Crimped and soldered are good. Soldered only are not so good - too brittle. Coat everything with an anti-corrosive oil. CRC 2-26 is available at home depot. There are others. WD40 is not good enough.
You said you have switches for lights - as someone else asked are these breakers? If you don't have breakers, do you know where all the fuses are? I have all my cabin lights on 1 breaker, since I have replaced everything with low amp zenon lights and few fluorescents (then I turn each light on at the light). Another for running lights, one for deck lights, one for fans, etc. Breakers are listed in amps, circuits or items you install are listed in watts. Watts = volts X amps. So in a 12 Volt system amps = watts/12. And when you buy instruments, etc. they will tell you what size breaker (or fuse) must be installed. There are also slow and fast acting breakers. Fast are typically for electronics. Breakers have a Line and Load side. Line goes back to your batter switch. Load connects to the circuit/item you are controlling. It is important to get them right. I don't really like the 12 Volt Bible. Try The Marine Electrical and Electronics Bible. More complete. Actually any high school physics text should have a decent chapter on electric circuits. Check your local library. Once you learn this stuff, you will only want a decent reference for the tricky stuff. Be careful using old breakers for new electronics. The wattage of modern electronics is MUCH LESS than the old days. The breakers may be too big for the circuit. You may also need fast acting ones for new electronics. Be conservative on wire gauge - larger is always better. It is also more expensive. Don't use single wires, run circuits using 2 conductor wire. Too many fires have been caused by confusing DC ground with AC power - both black. Avoid that by running complete circuits back to your breaker panel. Don't add things to a convenient circuit, unless a) it really makes sense, and b) you verify that the new load will work with the existing breaker - in which case the existing breaker may be too large for the old load. Connections are important. Crimped connections are good. Crimped and soldered are good. Soldered only are not so good - too brittle. Coat everything with an anti-corrosive oil. CRC 2-26 is available at home depot. There are others. WD40 is not good enough.
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Bill
Been there
Lloyd, I had found myself floundering trying to get a good intuition about wiring. Although I had read a number of sources including Calder. The book which really helped me see the big picture was Edgar Beyn's "12 Volt Doctor's Practical Handbook", published by Weems and Plath. A friend and fellow boater recommended it. On reading the first few chapters, the pieces started falling together for me. For the first time, I felt I could "see" what happened in the wiring, and even predict successfully what would happen when I tested (connected or disconnected) things on the hot side. The book also has some very good sections on connections and on switches. Of course I can't guarantee you'll get the same value from Beyn. But I wish you success in any event. I sense that you are cautious about doing any wiring until you've become more comfortable. That's a good plan. Good luck.
Lloyd, I had found myself floundering trying to get a good intuition about wiring. Although I had read a number of sources including Calder. The book which really helped me see the big picture was Edgar Beyn's "12 Volt Doctor's Practical Handbook", published by Weems and Plath. A friend and fellow boater recommended it. On reading the first few chapters, the pieces started falling together for me. For the first time, I felt I could "see" what happened in the wiring, and even predict successfully what would happen when I tested (connected or disconnected) things on the hot side. The book also has some very good sections on connections and on switches. Of course I can't guarantee you'll get the same value from Beyn. But I wish you success in any event. I sense that you are cautious about doing any wiring until you've become more comfortable. That's a good plan. Good luck.
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Bayard Gross
Are you near Cos Cob?
Lloyd, Eddie Meter dockmaster at Cos Cob is a superior boat person. He might be able to give you good information provided you have specific questions. The best way to get to know him is to go down to the Byram dockmaster's office in the evening and sit around and chat with him. He is an extremely intelligent individual, although you might not draw that impression upon seeing him. Why the Byram dockmaster's office? That's where he sometimes hangs out in the evening with some other of us "boating" persons. Bring your beach card and properly stickered card so you can enter the park and then turn right to get to the dockmaster's office. The Byram dockmaster is Joe Bochino, an expert in techical things in his own right. Just tell Joe that Bayard Gross sent you and you are looking for advice on putting electronics into your boat. You'll get lots of help.
Lloyd, Eddie Meter dockmaster at Cos Cob is a superior boat person. He might be able to give you good information provided you have specific questions. The best way to get to know him is to go down to the Byram dockmaster's office in the evening and sit around and chat with him. He is an extremely intelligent individual, although you might not draw that impression upon seeing him. Why the Byram dockmaster's office? That's where he sometimes hangs out in the evening with some other of us "boating" persons. Bring your beach card and properly stickered card so you can enter the park and then turn right to get to the dockmaster's office. The Byram dockmaster is Joe Bochino, an expert in techical things in his own right. Just tell Joe that Bayard Gross sent you and you are looking for advice on putting electronics into your boat. You'll get lots of help.
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