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Winterizing

Oct 22, 2007
17
Catalina 310 Keuka Lake NY
Does anyone have a list of what needs to be winterized on a 310? A how to would be very helpful.

Ted Pinelli
 
Dec 14, 2003
1,081
Hunter 34 Lake of Two Mountains, QC, Can
Everything that has the possibility of freezing; engine (raw water side and FWC side), then fresh water system including How Water tank. Here is how I do it:
- While boat is still in the water I change oil and filter
- Then I check and adjust the coolant in the FWC system, (making sure the temperature drop level is at -40 for a reference).

-Have your septic tank pumped-out. It is generally easier to do that before having the boat hauled-out.

Once boat is on the hard (it should be done even if the boat stays in the water)
- Run antifreeze in the system until it comes out of the exhaust. Your antifreeze will get mixed with a lot of water so check temp reading in the bucket until you reach a level superior to the lowest temp you get in your region.
-Shut engine and loosen-up alternator belt and impeller belt to remove tension on bearings.
-Empty your fresh water tank and either blow the lines or run non-toxic antifreeze (use good quality otherwise your pump seals and gaskets may dry up and leak when recommissioning. Make sure there is no water left in the lines, all the way to the faucets.
-Drain your hot water tank and leave drain faucet open.
-Poor some antifreeze in the septic tank (I use the waste access). I also pump some through the toilet bowl, disconnecting the hose at the intake through-hull. Same comment here Re quality of AF.

Never had a problem using this method. the secret is to be thorough. Good luck
 
Aug 24, 2009
444
Catalina 310 Sturgeon Bay, WI
And - flip the Y-Valve to run antifreeze (non-toxic) through the drain in your frig, and those lines. I also pump non toxic antifreeze through my bilge pumps (manual and electric) and dump a little in the anchor locker just to flush out the drain.
 
Sep 23, 2009
1,375
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
I am nervous about running the engine on the hard (gravel actually). For those of you who have, is there much vibration in the hull, any special precautions with the stands?
Thanks
 
Sep 25, 2008
5,433
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
I am nervous about running the engine on the hard (gravel actually).
Thanks
As you should... Regardless of whether anyone else has done it, and I've seen it done, there is no valid reason to risk it.

If your objective is to sample the discharge, it is easily done while still 'in'.
 
Aug 13, 2012
514
Catalina 270 Ottawa
I am nervous about running the engine on the hard (gravel actually). For those of you who have, is there much vibration in the hull, any special precautions with the stands?
Thanks
I don't think the vibrations or the stress of any kind is bigger than what you will have through the winter from the wind. i store the boat on a cradle, so there might be some difference, but if your stands are properly secured, you should be fine. Of course, it also depends how well your engine is running, but if it shakes the boat so much that it might move it off the stands, you have a bigger problem.
 
Nov 18, 2010
2,148
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
I am nervous about running the engine on the hard (gravel actually). For those of you who have, is there much vibration in the hull, any special precautions with the stands?
Thanks
Don't be. The resident guru, Maine Sail does this to his own boat. Here is the video where he explains how to do it.
I have done it several times with no issues. I have had a complete out of water survey since doing this with hull soundings and moisture readings with no issues found.

Not an issue for me any more :)

Good luck and fair winds,

Jesse
 

Maine Sail

Moderator
Feb 6, 1998
11,037
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
I am nervous about running the engine on the hard (gravel actually). For those of you who have, is there much vibration in the hull, any special precautions with the stands?
Thanks
I do this currently about 19-22 times per year (my own boat plus customers). The local boat yards to it many hundreds of times per year.... It is a non issue with a boat properly supported.
 
Sep 23, 2009
1,375
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
Thank you all. I think I can now do it without hyperventilating. The video was excellent.
Here's hoping we have a very short winter.:wink:
 

Maine Sail

Moderator
Feb 6, 1998
11,037
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Does anyone have a list of what needs to be winterized on a 310? A how to would be very helpful.

Ted Pinelli
This is a list of what I do...

Boat Interior & Electronics:
*Remove most electronics and store indoors
*Remove all cushions and store in barn
*Remove all canvas, wash, treat and store in barn
*Remove solar panel
*Remove sails and drop at sail maker for winter cleaning/inspection
*Clean bilges
*Clean all stainless with Spotless Stainless
*Remove all food and "freezable" items
*Clean ice box with bleach and leave stored open for air circulation
*Change battery in solar vent
*Cinch all block and tackle assemblies such as main sheet and vang
*Remove speed or speed/depth insert and clean/lube o-rings

Head & Holding Tank
*Clean head, lube pump and winterize by sucking in PG or EG
*Drain holding tank (while still in water) and fill with bleach & water let sit for a week and get pumped out or hit 3NM and macerate overboard.
*Thoroughly drain holding tank
*Remove drain plugs on seacocks and drain valve body (or cycle when on hard)
*Leave seacocks open on hard


Fresh Water System
*Drain tanks entirely then wipe dry via clean out port
*Drain water heater and blow out with compressor
*By-pass water heater
*Remove fresh water system filter
*Remove faucet mounted Brita filter
*Suck in -50 PG into fresh water system HOSES ONLY open faucets one at a time to get AF at tap.
*Test PG concentration with refractometer to ensure freeze point same as bottle.

Engine:
*Change oil & filter
*Change oil only (second time to get fully clean)
*Change gear box fluid
*Drain & fill/change engine antifreeze every other year
*Test freeze point of engine ethylene glycol (every year)
*Change HX zinc
*Change both primary and secondary fuel filters
*Change fuel polishing system filter (not applicable to most boats)
*Change Espar heater filter
*Drain fuel tank and burn in homes heating system
*Change zinc in Sea Frost HX (only applies to engine driven refrigeration)
*Clean intake strainer
*Flush RW circuit by sucking fresh water through it
*AF raw water side of system (5 gallons)
*Remove impeller and prep cover plate and gasket surfaces for spring
*Remove air cleaner and seal off intake with plastic
*Remove exhaust hose and seal outlet with plastic

Boat:
Wash hull
Remove any waterline staining
Wax hull
Cover boat
Pressure wash bottom and clean out thru-hulls

Battery Bank:
*Charge banks to full
*Check electrolyte level
*Check cell balance via specific gravity (after 24 hour rest)
*If low fill and recharge or equalize
*Re-check cell balance (if out of balance before equalize)
*Test batteries with Midtrionics and Argus analyzers, record test specs (bi-yearly 20 hour capacity testing)
*100% Disconnect battery bank from boat (neg leads)
*Leave batteries on-board to take advantage of cold temps on bank longevity
*Top up with charger once or bi-monthly through out winter
 
Sep 23, 2009
1,375
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
I have two questions. The video was really great but when I tried it with the antifreeze bucket on the cabin floor (still not hauled yet) it took a long time to prime. Is that normal, should I prime somehow. It would be great to see MaineSail start and stop the flow in the hoses to see how much time one has when starting and stopping and how not to hydrolock without running dry.
Second question; what is the difference between disconnecting the negative or the positive battery cables for storage and repairs.
Sorry for such basic questions, I'll get it after a few more winterizations.
 
Dec 2, 1997
7,393
- - LIttle Rock
There are detailed instructions for winterizing fresh water and sanitation systems in the plumbing and sanitation forum...first post, pinned there as a "sticky."
 

Maine Sail

Moderator
Feb 6, 1998
11,037
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
I have two questions. The video was really great but when I tried it with the antifreeze bucket on the cabin floor (still not hauled yet) it took a long time to prime. Is that normal, should I prime somehow. It would be great to see MaineSail start and stop the flow in the hoses to see how much time one has when starting and stopping and how not to hydrolock without running dry.
Second question; what is the difference between disconnecting the negative or the positive battery cables for storage and repairs.
Sorry for such basic questions, I'll get it after a few more winterizations.
Your pump is worn or the impeller is bad. You can often get a prime with a weak pump/impeller by increasing RPM in short bursts. Running dry is a non-issue, for a few seconds, as there will still be plenty of moisture still in the pump for lubricity. Put your hand on it after 10-15 seconds run "dry" and you will see it is not yet even begun to get warm. To avoid hydrolocking I just put a valve on my suction line, at the bucket end, and do it from the cockpit. I do it in the cockpit so if the bucket overflows while flushing, and running the engine to temp with fresh water, no big deal it just goes out the scuppers. If you are doing this in the cabin, and the bucket is lower than the siphon break, no need to worry about a hydrolock.. By doing this in the cockpit I can run fresh water through the engine as long as I like, without fear of overflowing, I am close to engine kill and key and my cut off valve for the intake. In this order, if doing it in the cockpit, turn off valve and then shut down engine, prime still in hose.

Fill bucket with AF, start engine and open valve. Measure concentration out the muffler at 3 gallons. I use a polycarbonate glass duck taped to a broom stick for samples. What comes out the exhaust should match the bottles refractometer reading exactly. If you don't use a refractometer suck in at least 5 gallons and capture the last part of the 5 gallons. Put fresh AF into a glass and what you caught into another glass. The colors should be identical after they have settled. Be aware that you can STILL be tricked by using color as a measure of concentration however..

I just did a Perkins 4-108 yesterday. By 1.5 gallons I was "seeing pink". "Seeing pink" is where most on net forums will tell you when it is okay to stop, this is WRONG... My first measurement was at 3 gallons and it was still very diluted and by 4.5 gallons it was getting close to matching the bottle. My last sample at the end of the 5 gallon bucket was still a tad off so another 1/2 gallon was sucked through. Once you know exactly what it takes to come out the other end with NO DILUTION you can repeat it the next year.

I prefer disconnecting the negatives because in the spring all negative cables go to the same spot so no mistakes can be made, especially in a poorly wired/labeled boat. Beyond that I wire tie the lugs next to their posts or leave an image for the owner in-case I am not there to reconnect.....

 
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Sep 23, 2009
1,375
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
Dear Peggy and Maine Sail, Thank you both. Wish you guys were in Maryland so I could turn my boats maintenance over to you. Understand now. I ran 6 gallons through and the refractor readings matched perfectly. Next year I take a reading after 5 gallons.
 
Last edited:

Maine Sail

Moderator
Feb 6, 1998
11,037
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Understand now. I ran 6 gallons through and the refractor readings matched perfectly. Next year I take a reading after 5 gallons.
You did well!

To make the case for others, here is the point about "seeing pink"...

These samples are from a Grand Banks trawler at 8 gallons sucked through the engines raw water system. To the naked eye you would be hard pressed to tell the difference between these two samples as they shot out the exhaust. "Seeing pink" is not a good measurement criteria for an adequately protected engine... Every spring I get to fix stuff that froze and was destroyed due to being under protected.

The sample on the left was taken at the end of gallon 8. The sample on the right is straight out of the bottle. Raw water pumps, strainers, oil coolers, gear coolers, heat exchangers, water lift mufflers and refrigeration coolers are expensive products and the labor even more.. Propylene glycol is cheap...

This was a Grand Banks trawler with a Ford Lehman. This was at 8 gallons.




Sorry for the bad photo. Taking a picture through a refractometer is extremely difficult but it tells the rest of the story. I actually used my iPhone to snap this shot but it was still impossible to get a crisp photo. This was the best of about 30 shots of the same reading....

Out of the bottle this product measured about 4F on the refractometer. The goal is to match the bottles refractometer measurement/reading exactly with what is coming out the exhaust. PG will ice up/slush up well before it ever bursts. Most -50F rated PG products will turn to slush at around 0F to 10F. For proper burst protection it is critically important to NOT dilute it because the burst point raises rather dramatically when diluted more than what the bottle already is.

In this sample, taken at 8 gallons, the freeze/slush point is around 27F indicating a strongly diluted sample. It should read 4F just as it came out of the bottle.

 
Aug 13, 2012
514
Catalina 270 Ottawa
Question - can a specific gravity refractometer be used for measuring concentration of the antifreeze? There are many available on-line; most are scaled for sugar or alcohol content or for salinity. But I imagine that if you can measure specific gravity and it is above 1.0, it should not matter.
 
Apr 2, 2013
291
Catalina 310 Niagara-on-the-Lake
When I add the AF to my engine, I use a 5' length of tubing, 5/8" I think, and I insert it into the intake of the fresh water through hull. I then create a seal at the intake with duct seal...it is kind of like 'Silly Putty'. I start the engine and the AF is sucked up the tube, through the system and out the exhaust. Have been doing this for 7 years. A friend told me it would not work, because he tried it and the pump would not raise the AF. Think it was time he serviced his pump!

Cheers
 
Sep 23, 2009
1,375
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
Question - can a specific gravity refractometer be used for measuring concentration of the antifreeze? There are many available on-line; most are scaled for sugar or alcohol content or for salinity. But I imagine that if you can measure specific gravity and it is above 1.0, it should not matter.
They all measure specific gravity but have different scales. Mine has a scale for batteries and both eth and propyl antifreezes. I got it on ebay from Charlie Downs, nissales.com (I only know because he enclosed his card along with printed instructions I keep in the case). It was not expensive, I remember around $40.
 
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