I would appreciate any advice on the least difficult procedures for winterizing the engine and factory heat/air on a '01 Hunter 320. It's one thing to say "pump antifreeze through the system, and another to physically do it. Is it true you should not get antifreeze in the pickup strainers?
Winterizing
- Thread starter SEAMATE II
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You need to displace ALL the water in the ENTIRE system. The easiest way is to remove the hoses connected to each thru-hull and run them into a container of antifreeze and run the engine, A/C, potable water system, etc. until you see antifreeze discharging from the engine exhaust, A/C discharge, ALL faucets including ALL strainers.
Any water remaining in any hose is not good. Water tanks and the water heater should be emptied but some residual water is no problem as there is room for expansion.
Any water remaining in any hose is not good. Water tanks and the water heater should be emptied but some residual water is no problem as there is room for expansion.
Winterizing II.
Don is correct of course but here is a bit more detail. From when I used to do it before moving the boat to warmer climes.
You do not mention the potable water system so I assume you know how to take care of the water heater and tanks.
And I have never heard of keeping the anti-freeze out of the strainers.
First I make up about a three-foot piece of hose with a barbed male-male connector. This is to make it easy to reach the bottom of a bucket filled with anti-freeze.
For the engine I first remove the intake hose from the thru-hull and connect my extender. Put the hose end in the bucket and have another gallon ready to dump in for a total of three gallons. Start the engine and when the bucket is nearly empty(after dumping in the third gal.) shut off the engine. Look out on the water by your exhaust output and you should see anti-freeze floating.
Same drill for the A/C but two gallons should be more than enough.
Your engine coolant(internal, closed-system) should be checked with a hydrometer, cheap from auto stores.
Don is correct of course but here is a bit more detail. From when I used to do it before moving the boat to warmer climes.
You do not mention the potable water system so I assume you know how to take care of the water heater and tanks.
And I have never heard of keeping the anti-freeze out of the strainers.
First I make up about a three-foot piece of hose with a barbed male-male connector. This is to make it easy to reach the bottom of a bucket filled with anti-freeze.
For the engine I first remove the intake hose from the thru-hull and connect my extender. Put the hose end in the bucket and have another gallon ready to dump in for a total of three gallons. Start the engine and when the bucket is nearly empty(after dumping in the third gal.) shut off the engine. Look out on the water by your exhaust output and you should see anti-freeze floating.
Same drill for the A/C but two gallons should be more than enough.
Your engine coolant(internal, closed-system) should be checked with a hydrometer, cheap from auto stores.
Winterizing the engine should be done after an oil change, by removing the seawater intake hose from its thru hull / seacock and connecting it to a container of -60 to -100 degree antifreeze; not the blue stuff for RV's. I have a two gallon container to which Ive added a nylon thru hull fitting at the bottom. This makes it easier than inserting the hose itself into the top of a jug of antifreeze.
For a 2GM20F Yanmar, at least one half gallon will be necesary, which includes the antifreeze loop running thru the water heater. One gallon should be more than sufficient for the engine, including the strainer and water lift muffler.
On our Hunter 28.5, I drain the water heater and the fresh water tank and blow out the lines, leaving all faucets open and disconnecting the lines at the electric pump and water heater afterwards; this avoids the unpleasant potable antifreeze taste and flushing in the spring. I pump out the holding tank and connect the intake hose from the head to the antifreeze jug and pump 1/2 gallon thru the head into the empty holding tank; then disconnect the intake hose at the head pump and using a small funnel, fill the hose down to the closed seacock with atifreeze and reconnect it to the head pump. I pour a couple cupfulls of antifreeze down any hose that has a seacock, such as the galley sink drain. If you have an overboard discharge valve and seacock, you need to get antifreeze in the hose above the seacock, (on a 28.5 I do this with a funel at an antisiphon valve). Not having AC, I can only assume you'd connect the seawater intake hose to the antifreeze jug and fill the seawater side with antifreeze, then shut all valves to seacocks.
Every model is probably a little different and many people elect to fill or partially fil their water systems with potable antifreeze (the blue stuff). It depends on if you feel you can blow the water out of the lines. I can do it by mouth blowing into the discharge line from the water pump withthe faucets open , then disconnecting the lines at the water heater; left with its drain cock open as well.
For a 2GM20F Yanmar, at least one half gallon will be necesary, which includes the antifreeze loop running thru the water heater. One gallon should be more than sufficient for the engine, including the strainer and water lift muffler.
On our Hunter 28.5, I drain the water heater and the fresh water tank and blow out the lines, leaving all faucets open and disconnecting the lines at the electric pump and water heater afterwards; this avoids the unpleasant potable antifreeze taste and flushing in the spring. I pump out the holding tank and connect the intake hose from the head to the antifreeze jug and pump 1/2 gallon thru the head into the empty holding tank; then disconnect the intake hose at the head pump and using a small funnel, fill the hose down to the closed seacock with atifreeze and reconnect it to the head pump. I pour a couple cupfulls of antifreeze down any hose that has a seacock, such as the galley sink drain. If you have an overboard discharge valve and seacock, you need to get antifreeze in the hose above the seacock, (on a 28.5 I do this with a funel at an antisiphon valve). Not having AC, I can only assume you'd connect the seawater intake hose to the antifreeze jug and fill the seawater side with antifreeze, then shut all valves to seacocks.
Every model is probably a little different and many people elect to fill or partially fil their water systems with potable antifreeze (the blue stuff). It depends on if you feel you can blow the water out of the lines. I can do it by mouth blowing into the discharge line from the water pump withthe faucets open , then disconnecting the lines at the water heater; left with its drain cock open as well.
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