G'day all. When winterizing my 2002 Honda BF15 4-stroke outboard the other day I couldn't remove one of the plugs. Consequently I have only fogged one cylinder. The motor will be stored in an unheated garage until May. How big a deal do you think that unfogged cylinder is? Thanks. Dave Niagara 26
Winterizing - stuck spark plug.
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G'day all. When winterizing my 2002 Honda BF15 4-stroke outboard the other day I couldn't remove one of the plugs. Consequently I have only fogged one cylinder. The motor will be stored in an unheated garage until May. How big a deal do you think that unfogged cylinder is? Thanks. Dave Niagara 26
I'm not familiar with the Honda OB
but when I winterize my Evinrude 8hp I do it by first running the engine in a barrel of fresh water to flush out salts and other materials. With the engine running at about 1500 rpms, I squirt the fogger oil into the air intake. Big billow of smoke, then shut the engine down. I then removed the plugs, cleaned and gapped them, sprayed the fogger into the cylinders. Replaced the plugs. YOu may able to squirt some fogger into the air intake on your engine, remove the plug wires, and pull the start cord manually to move the fogging oil around the cylinders. At some point, you'll have to deal with getting that frozen plug out. You could try to gently tap the metal base with a hammer and screw driver to loosen it up, or apply some heat (very carefully!) with a torch. Use a perfectly fitting socket on the biggest socket wrench you can find, or add a piece of pipe to the wrench handle to gain leverage and apply brute force. Next time, apply some "Never Seize" or similar product to the threads of the plugs when installing them. Good luck with this.
but when I winterize my Evinrude 8hp I do it by first running the engine in a barrel of fresh water to flush out salts and other materials. With the engine running at about 1500 rpms, I squirt the fogger oil into the air intake. Big billow of smoke, then shut the engine down. I then removed the plugs, cleaned and gapped them, sprayed the fogger into the cylinders. Replaced the plugs. YOu may able to squirt some fogger into the air intake on your engine, remove the plug wires, and pull the start cord manually to move the fogging oil around the cylinders. At some point, you'll have to deal with getting that frozen plug out. You could try to gently tap the metal base with a hammer and screw driver to loosen it up, or apply some heat (very carefully!) with a torch. Use a perfectly fitting socket on the biggest socket wrench you can find, or add a piece of pipe to the wrench handle to gain leverage and apply brute force. Next time, apply some "Never Seize" or similar product to the threads of the plugs when installing them. Good luck with this.
I'm not familiar with the Honda OB
but when I winterize my Evinrude 8hp I do it by first running the engine in a barrel of fresh water to flush out salts and other materials. With the engine running at about 1500 rpms, I squirt the fogger oil into the air intake. Big billow of smoke, then shut the engine down. I then removed the plugs, cleaned and gapped them, sprayed the fogger into the cylinders. Replaced the plugs. YOu may able to squirt some fogger into the air intake on your engine, remove the plug wires, and pull the start cord manually to move the fogging oil around the cylinders. At some point, you'll have to deal with getting that frozen plug out. You could try to gently tap the metal base with a hammer and screw driver to loosen it up, or apply some heat (very carefully!) with a torch. Use a perfectly fitting socket on the biggest socket wrench you can find, or add a piece of pipe to the wrench handle to gain leverage and apply brute force. Next time, apply some "Never Seize" or similar product to the threads of the plugs when installing them. Good luck with this.
but when I winterize my Evinrude 8hp I do it by first running the engine in a barrel of fresh water to flush out salts and other materials. With the engine running at about 1500 rpms, I squirt the fogger oil into the air intake. Big billow of smoke, then shut the engine down. I then removed the plugs, cleaned and gapped them, sprayed the fogger into the cylinders. Replaced the plugs. YOu may able to squirt some fogger into the air intake on your engine, remove the plug wires, and pull the start cord manually to move the fogging oil around the cylinders. At some point, you'll have to deal with getting that frozen plug out. You could try to gently tap the metal base with a hammer and screw driver to loosen it up, or apply some heat (very carefully!) with a torch. Use a perfectly fitting socket on the biggest socket wrench you can find, or add a piece of pipe to the wrench handle to gain leverage and apply brute force. Next time, apply some "Never Seize" or similar product to the threads of the plugs when installing them. Good luck with this.
Kroil is a good product also and ........
I have also used PB Blaster for many years. I agree with Stu that it is a great product. Another "trick" to try for loosening the plug is to adapt a snug spark plug socket to a portable DC drill that has a torque clutch for driving screws. Set the torque about mid-way and let the drill "hammer" on the plug. Increase the torque as necessary. I have successfully loosened stuck screws and bolts with this technique. It's like having a mini impact wrench. I would definitely use PB Blaster or Kroil first. Heat would be my very last resort because you really need to heat the cylinder head, not the plug. The good news is that the aluminum head will expand more that the steel plug body and may break free easy. If you get to the point of heating, rub a stick of beeswax at the plug-head threads and let the wax wick into the threads. Some like this wax treatment better than PB Blaster. Beeswax is commonly used in rings for sealing household toilets. And, for sure, Never-Seize is your friend. Comes in a can with a cap-brush or as a spray. I like the can and brush for easy application and no over-spray. Wipe a very small amount on the threads and you will never have a problem again. Also great for auto wheel lug bolts- treat'em once for the life of the car.
I have also used PB Blaster for many years. I agree with Stu that it is a great product. Another "trick" to try for loosening the plug is to adapt a snug spark plug socket to a portable DC drill that has a torque clutch for driving screws. Set the torque about mid-way and let the drill "hammer" on the plug. Increase the torque as necessary. I have successfully loosened stuck screws and bolts with this technique. It's like having a mini impact wrench. I would definitely use PB Blaster or Kroil first. Heat would be my very last resort because you really need to heat the cylinder head, not the plug. The good news is that the aluminum head will expand more that the steel plug body and may break free easy. If you get to the point of heating, rub a stick of beeswax at the plug-head threads and let the wax wick into the threads. Some like this wax treatment better than PB Blaster. Beeswax is commonly used in rings for sealing household toilets. And, for sure, Never-Seize is your friend. Comes in a can with a cap-brush or as a spray. I like the can and brush for easy application and no over-spray. Wipe a very small amount on the threads and you will never have a problem again. Also great for auto wheel lug bolts- treat'em once for the life of the car.
Kroil is a good product also and ........
I have also used PB Blaster for many years. I agree with Stu that it is a great product. Another "trick" to try for loosening the plug is to adapt a snug spark plug socket to a portable DC drill that has a torque clutch for driving screws. Set the torque about mid-way and let the drill "hammer" on the plug. Increase the torque as necessary. I have successfully loosened stuck screws and bolts with this technique. It's like having a mini impact wrench. I would definitely use PB Blaster or Kroil first. Heat would be my very last resort because you really need to heat the cylinder head, not the plug. The good news is that the aluminum head will expand more that the steel plug body and may break free easy. If you get to the point of heating, rub a stick of beeswax at the plug-head threads and let the wax wick into the threads. Some like this wax treatment better than PB Blaster. Beeswax is commonly used in rings for sealing household toilets. And, for sure, Never-Seize is your friend. Comes in a can with a cap-brush or as a spray. I like the can and brush for easy application and no over-spray. Wipe a very small amount on the threads and you will never have a problem again. Also great for auto wheel lug bolts- treat'em once for the life of the car.
I have also used PB Blaster for many years. I agree with Stu that it is a great product. Another "trick" to try for loosening the plug is to adapt a snug spark plug socket to a portable DC drill that has a torque clutch for driving screws. Set the torque about mid-way and let the drill "hammer" on the plug. Increase the torque as necessary. I have successfully loosened stuck screws and bolts with this technique. It's like having a mini impact wrench. I would definitely use PB Blaster or Kroil first. Heat would be my very last resort because you really need to heat the cylinder head, not the plug. The good news is that the aluminum head will expand more that the steel plug body and may break free easy. If you get to the point of heating, rub a stick of beeswax at the plug-head threads and let the wax wick into the threads. Some like this wax treatment better than PB Blaster. Beeswax is commonly used in rings for sealing household toilets. And, for sure, Never-Seize is your friend. Comes in a can with a cap-brush or as a spray. I like the can and brush for easy application and no over-spray. Wipe a very small amount on the threads and you will never have a problem again. Also great for auto wheel lug bolts- treat'em once for the life of the car.
PB Blaster / Acetone
Be careful where you use PB Blaster as I believe it has Acetone in it which can attack surrounding painted areas. I've used it to disolve the sealant between an exhaust hose and the injection elbow then pryloose with screw drivers and that was the only way to get it off withiout cutting the hose.
Be careful where you use PB Blaster as I believe it has Acetone in it which can attack surrounding painted areas. I've used it to disolve the sealant between an exhaust hose and the injection elbow then pryloose with screw drivers and that was the only way to get it off withiout cutting the hose.
PB Blaster / Acetone
Be careful where you use PB Blaster as I believe it has Acetone in it which can attack surrounding painted areas. I've used it to disolve the sealant between an exhaust hose and the injection elbow then pryloose with screw drivers and that was the only way to get it off withiout cutting the hose.
Be careful where you use PB Blaster as I believe it has Acetone in it which can attack surrounding painted areas. I've used it to disolve the sealant between an exhaust hose and the injection elbow then pryloose with screw drivers and that was the only way to get it off withiout cutting the hose.
#4 is correct
read the label, dare I suggest? It attacks rubber, too, so watch out for seals, etc. Still a great product. Also, in addition to Rich's note, try, like any other screw mounted thingy, tightening it FIRST, them backing off.
read the label, dare I suggest? It attacks rubber, too, so watch out for seals, etc. Still a great product. Also, in addition to Rich's note, try, like any other screw mounted thingy, tightening it FIRST, them backing off.
#4 is correct
read the label, dare I suggest? It attacks rubber, too, so watch out for seals, etc. Still a great product. Also, in addition to Rich's note, try, like any other screw mounted thingy, tightening it FIRST, them backing off.
read the label, dare I suggest? It attacks rubber, too, so watch out for seals, etc. Still a great product. Also, in addition to Rich's note, try, like any other screw mounted thingy, tightening it FIRST, them backing off.
Fogging
Dave, The plug may come out easy if you could try taking it out at normal operating temp. Also you should have some stabil or Sea Foam in the last tank of gas. Brian
Dave, The plug may come out easy if you could try taking it out at normal operating temp. Also you should have some stabil or Sea Foam in the last tank of gas. Brian
Fogging
Dave, The plug may come out easy if you could try taking it out at normal operating temp. Also you should have some stabil or Sea Foam in the last tank of gas. Brian
Dave, The plug may come out easy if you could try taking it out at normal operating temp. Also you should have some stabil or Sea Foam in the last tank of gas. Brian
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