Anyone have a great write-up for winterizing? I'm sure there is a post for this. Just couldn't find it. The more specific for a Hunter 34 stored on land the better. Thanks!
Winterizing Procedures
- Thread starter manuevers
- Start date
- Status
You could e-mail me for a spreadsheet that I used for nine winters on Lake Erie. Just click on my name, just to port, by the avatar.
Engine Winterizing (for more sectors, email me at bodonovan@vagazette.com)
Verify 3600 rpm at high idle x 0.78 = 2800 or 2500 heavy load * may need tuneup
Fill small plastic bottle with diesel for filter change
Replace impeller every even year
1. Turn off raw water input behind engine
2. Impeller No. 810B Johnson with mineral oil & O-ring. Gasket seal or black goo
3. Check old impeller to fold the ends properly inside the housing. Mark cover.
4. Replace impeller, white grease or mineral oil, test by pump & turn camshaft
5. Be sure to re-open raw water intake before starting
After last run, winterize engine follow sequence Pg15
Replace mixing elbow every five years Starboard sez 500 & 1000 hours, 2008
Inspect fanbelts for wear stretch 1/4inch maximum
Change trans fluid every even year with 0.3 liter draw up 1 ML, examine smelly & dark
Tighten up cable brace • ensure trans cable firmly bolted
Remove and clean air horn filter, gently see “Water” in book
Order two filters and impeller from ship’s store see below for numbers
Clean flex motor mounts for signs of oil/fuel residue straighten twist
Inspect engine for rubber deterioration, clamps replace fuel clamps with flats
Replace fuel filters
1. Yanmar secondary fuel filter No. 104500-55710 & O ring (engine)
2. Racor primary fuel filter R-110A & O-rings * take to store to find match
3. Turn off petcock & wear paper mask... see “Bleeding” in book
4. Replace engine fuel filter, bleed offset w. socket. Replace crush washer No. 8
5. Open Racor primary filter for black/smelly/water turn toward aft to loosen
6. Turn petcock back on • rev up neutral at startup to blow out air
when changing fuel filters, be sure to have new O ring for primary
7. Pump & turn camshaft turn off raw water • Do not go beyond 15-sec bursts
Replace coolant every even year done spring 2008, done Spring 2010
a. if connection leaking, clean out hardened antifreeze clumps
b. see page 30 for frequent places of leakage
c. clean pressure cap everywhere with bronze wool, inside cap too.
d. tighten coolant clamps everywhere to get overflow jar to work
e. weakest links are at clamps for raw water and antifreeze
1. Refill with 50-50 Texaco Anti-Freeze coolant extended life (green).
2. Gather hose and tray to capture old green.
3. Open radiator and open round petcock, drain to tray and bucket, rinse thru.
4. Replace coolant in engine and overflow jar after rinsing out
5. Open green cap with pliers to refill air pocket to preclude burping.
6. Check air pocket at green cap again after sail.
Drain coolant, remove cap to inspect heat exh rods to Steves or .22 brush
Starboard Marine valve adjustment 350 hrs
Run Rydlme 2 gal overnite to remove deposits • use 1 gal water for 66%
Dismantle and inspect muffler for corrosion empty water in bucket
Verify 3600 rpm at high idle x 0.78 = 2800 or 2500 heavy load * may need tuneup
Fill small plastic bottle with diesel for filter change
Replace impeller every even year
1. Turn off raw water input behind engine
2. Impeller No. 810B Johnson with mineral oil & O-ring. Gasket seal or black goo
3. Check old impeller to fold the ends properly inside the housing. Mark cover.
4. Replace impeller, white grease or mineral oil, test by pump & turn camshaft
5. Be sure to re-open raw water intake before starting
After last run, winterize engine follow sequence Pg15
Replace mixing elbow every five years Starboard sez 500 & 1000 hours, 2008
Inspect fanbelts for wear stretch 1/4inch maximum
Change trans fluid every even year with 0.3 liter draw up 1 ML, examine smelly & dark
Tighten up cable brace • ensure trans cable firmly bolted
Remove and clean air horn filter, gently see “Water” in book
Order two filters and impeller from ship’s store see below for numbers
Clean flex motor mounts for signs of oil/fuel residue straighten twist
Inspect engine for rubber deterioration, clamps replace fuel clamps with flats
Replace fuel filters
1. Yanmar secondary fuel filter No. 104500-55710 & O ring (engine)
2. Racor primary fuel filter R-110A & O-rings * take to store to find match
3. Turn off petcock & wear paper mask... see “Bleeding” in book
4. Replace engine fuel filter, bleed offset w. socket. Replace crush washer No. 8
5. Open Racor primary filter for black/smelly/water turn toward aft to loosen
6. Turn petcock back on • rev up neutral at startup to blow out air
when changing fuel filters, be sure to have new O ring for primary
7. Pump & turn camshaft turn off raw water • Do not go beyond 15-sec bursts
Replace coolant every even year done spring 2008, done Spring 2010
a. if connection leaking, clean out hardened antifreeze clumps
b. see page 30 for frequent places of leakage
c. clean pressure cap everywhere with bronze wool, inside cap too.
d. tighten coolant clamps everywhere to get overflow jar to work
e. weakest links are at clamps for raw water and antifreeze
1. Refill with 50-50 Texaco Anti-Freeze coolant extended life (green).
2. Gather hose and tray to capture old green.
3. Open radiator and open round petcock, drain to tray and bucket, rinse thru.
4. Replace coolant in engine and overflow jar after rinsing out
5. Open green cap with pliers to refill air pocket to preclude burping.
6. Check air pocket at green cap again after sail.
Drain coolant, remove cap to inspect heat exh rods to Steves or .22 brush
Starboard Marine valve adjustment 350 hrs
Run Rydlme 2 gal overnite to remove deposits • use 1 gal water for 66%
Dismantle and inspect muffler for corrosion empty water in bucket
- Status