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Winterizing Fresh Water on 35.5

Nov 12, 2014
3
Bristol 35.5 Guilford
I am a new owner of 1978 35.5 and was winterizing the fresh water system today. She has 2 water tanks, 1 molded into the bow under the vee berth (est 30 gal) and 1 under the starboard settee (35 gal-black, flexible plastic bladder). Does anyone else have this setup? This is Dieter Empacher's boat so not certain what is consistent w/ other 35.5, same vintage. If yes, how did you winterize the sink in the head? I was able to get propylene glycol pumped thru the 2 galley faucets (1 manual, 1 via electric pump) but not thru the head. In fact the water flow in the head sink is minimal..She has a water heater but I haven't detected any warm water, even with the engine running for 15-20 minutes. thanks
dave
 
Sep 25, 2008
544
Bristol 43.3 Perth Amboy
This is what I do. I pressurize the system and open all the faucets and drain. If you can, look at the hot water tank and see if there is a drain on it. If so, open and drain hot water tank. I then put 4 gallons of nontoxic antifreeze in each tank and pressurize the system. I then turn on the hot water and let faucets run till very pink antifreeze is coming out. I then open the cold faucets till very pink. I then pump the manual pumps untill very pink. I then drain the system by leaving the faucets open and opening up a strainer that is at the lowest point before the pressure pump.
 
Aug 15, 2014
114
Catalina 36 Deale, MD
I left the pink stuff in my water systems (c36). Do most drain that as well to try to leave no fluid behind?
 
Oct 1, 2011
172
Canadian Sailcraft 36T PCYC Toronto
The water tank should be drained, and bypassed prior to running the "pink" thru. You don't want that stuff in the hot water tank.
 
Aug 15, 2014
114
Catalina 36 Deale, MD
The water tank should be drained, and bypassed prior to running the "pink" thru. You don't want that stuff in the hot water tank.
To clarify, h2o heater was first drained and bypassed, then both tanks were independently drained (run dry) through H&C lines at the head then galley, then I ran two gal of the pink stuff in each tank separately through both H&C lines until deep pink, starting from the furthest line and working back to the tanks. My question is I still have the pink stuff left behind. I didn't bother draining that as well. Enough pink stuff to fill all the lines as the pump shuts off due to the back pressure.
 
May 10, 2008
392
Catalina 355 Boston
To clarify, h2o heater was first drained and bypassed, then both tanks were independently drained (run dry) through H&C lines at the head then galley, then I ran two gal of the pink stuff in each tank separately through both H&C lines until deep pink, starting from the furthest line and working back to the tanks. My question is I still have the pink stuff left behind. I didn't bother draining that as well. Enough pink stuff to fill all the lines as the pump shuts off due to the back pressure.
I do drain the AF after I finish winterizing the fresh water tanks. The main purpose of the AF is to make sure any low spots don't have water and the potential to burst. I've never had luck blowing all the water out of the lines, so I use a gallon in each fresh water tank, then drain. This way you also provide room for expansion in the event your AF is too diluted. I also use the -60 just to be safe. I don't have inspection ports in my FW tanks, so I don't have the luxury of vacuuming out any risidual water after draining.
 
Sep 25, 2008
544
Bristol 43.3 Perth Amboy
There is no reason not to leave the pink stuff in the hot water tank. I use the anti corrosive stuff. I've been doing it for years. I don't have an easy way to drain or bypass the tank.