Winterizing: Anti-freeze vs. Blowing Out Lines

[Fly4hire]

Any opinions? Last few years I've done the antifreeze thing. Don't like the mess even if it is the environmentally friendly stuff. I'd like to try compressed air to clear lines this year but curious if there are deep spots in some systems that might not clear? I figure I can blow out most water lines, sump, and A/C system cleanly. I'm guessing I'll still want to fill the raw water side of my engine cooling with antifreeze to prevent rust, some in the bilge, vanity, shower, the bilge, and head/holding tank. What is the best point of access for blowing lines out? I figure the fill port for the H2O, discharge port for the AC, and detach the sump drain for the sump. Your knowledge and experience welcome.

What is the best point of access for


Ny

 

[Richard Bryer]

I used to run anti freeze thru everything. Two years ago I stopped when I put in a new head that was easy to drain and the recommendation was no anti freeze, and a new pressure pump that was easy to drain.

I disconnect the water lines at the pressure pump and use a little shop vac to blow out the lines after running the tanks dry. I drain the head and the intake and out flow hoses.

I do run anti freeze into the raw water side of the engine until it flows pink.

Certainly cuts down on the work in the spring- one tank of chlorine mix according to Peggy's recipe and next tank is good to go.

 

[s sauer]

I've successfully been draining the system and blowing out the lines for 26 seasons on a Hunter 28.5. 1st run as much water out of the faucets as possible.
2nd; drain the water heater at it's drain spigot...you may want to add some clear tubing to take it to a low collection point; then detach the potable water supply and return lines from the water heater and from the intake & outflow of the 12 volt water pressure pump. Now there is likely still some water in the system , so with faucets open. I've been able to blow thru the water line from the outlet side of the pressure pump with faucets open and clear the lines. Do this before your last few sails of the season and blow them out again after haul-out. Larger boats may have more components and more complicated systems, but this has been an easy and effective process and I've never added antifreeze to the water tank or hot water heater.
After a nice fall season sail, I motor back into the slip and change the oil and filter and connect the seawater intake to a two gallon bucket of -100 degree antifreeze to winterize the engine, heat exchanger and water lift muffler...also pump out and pour some antifreeze into the head & holding tank. After haul-out open all thru hull valves to drain any water before the 1st freeze...leave them open on the hard til spring launch.

 

[Dan Johnson]

Using air compression...

to blow out the water lines has always been a concern to me.

Obviously using air compression has worked for many owners, but here's my concern:

Many of the waterlines form loops that are similar in nature to a drain trap in household plumbing as they pass below the cabin sole sections. I can't be positive that a certain amount of residual water wouldn't remain in the lowest point once the pressure wave pushes the initial "flush" of water out of the lines.

My process is that once the water tank and hot water heater are emptied, I close the bypass valves on the hot water tank in/out lines, and use a siphon connection ahead of the water pump to draw antifreeze into the water lines until all lines are "running pink". Head and holding tank are addressed separately.

In the Spring, I hook up a shore water hose (with a ball valve to regulate the flow) to the siphon connection and use that to flush out all the antifreeze in the water lines until all are running "clear".

 

[Chenega]

In Connecticut, yards say you can not run and winterized engines and systems with nontoxic antifreeze on land. All systems must be done in the water. Antifreeze (nontoxic) can not be spilled on land. Does this make sense? In the water not on land?

 

[Brezzin]

In Connecticut, yards say you can not run and winterized engines and systems with nontoxic antifreeze on land. All systems must be done in the water. Antifreeze (nontoxic) can not be spilled on land. Does this make sense? In the water not on land?

I have not heard of this before. Is this part of that clean Marina program?

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

you can't legally discharge propylene glycol antifreeze in the water either (although it is a common practice)

 

[seadaddler]

Air

Been blowing out my boats water lines and RV water lines for 30 years and just do it right and will not have a problem,even have used a shop vac when no air compressor available.
nick