My 84 Yanmar 2GM needs winterizing, but I'm concerned that the thermastat might cause trouble. I've rigged a plunger device to get the antifreeze into the through hull, but how do I get it past the thermastat? Even if the engine is hot the antifreeze will shut it on contact. I'd drain the engine first but for the life of me I can't find the drain(s). Anyone know where I can find an operaters manual for this thing?
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Raw water cooled?
If your Yanmar is raw water cooled you will have to remove the thermostat before starting, if it's fresh water cooled just suck the anti freeze up until it starts coming out the exhaust. It's easiest to remove the intake hose from the through hull and stick it in a bucket of anti freeze, a 2 gal 50/50 mixture will be plenty.
If your Yanmar is raw water cooled you will have to remove the thermostat before starting, if it's fresh water cooled just suck the anti freeze up until it starts coming out the exhaust. It's easiest to remove the intake hose from the through hull and stick it in a bucket of anti freeze, a 2 gal 50/50 mixture will be plenty.
Amazon
Clymers (spelling not sure of) makes a good manual for Yanmars available at Amazon.com as well as other places
Clymers (spelling not sure of) makes a good manual for Yanmars available at Amazon.com as well as other places
thermostat is in the closed lop system
If you have a heat exchanger, there is no need to worry about that part of the coolling system - already has antifreeze in it. Don
If you have a heat exchanger, there is no need to worry about that part of the coolling system - already has antifreeze in it. Don
More stuff
"It's easiest to remove the intake hose from the through hull and stick it in a bucket of anti freeze," Or, sometimes the answer is "more stuff". Rather than installing and uninstalling hoses every winter, splice in a "T" fitting in the raw water intake, in between the raw water filter and the engine. On the stem of the "T" run about 6-8 feet of extra hose and install a reliable shut-off valve (or an end fitting and cap). Now when you want to suck coolant from a bucket, you can just shut the normal raw-water intake valve, and place the "T" hose into a bucket. Suck in the antifreeze till you see some running out the exhaust, shut down, and cap the hose again. (I'd suggest taping or wiring it, to ensure it stays closed tightly till next year.) A fast ten bucks worth of parts, and you don't have to mess around with hose fittings ever again. For that job.
"It's easiest to remove the intake hose from the through hull and stick it in a bucket of anti freeze," Or, sometimes the answer is "more stuff". Rather than installing and uninstalling hoses every winter, splice in a "T" fitting in the raw water intake, in between the raw water filter and the engine. On the stem of the "T" run about 6-8 feet of extra hose and install a reliable shut-off valve (or an end fitting and cap). Now when you want to suck coolant from a bucket, you can just shut the normal raw-water intake valve, and place the "T" hose into a bucket. Suck in the antifreeze till you see some running out the exhaust, shut down, and cap the hose again. (I'd suggest taping or wiring it, to ensure it stays closed tightly till next year.) A fast ten bucks worth of parts, and you don't have to mess around with hose fittings ever again. For that job.
anti freeze made simple
I just pour pink pop into the water filter (with clear plastic lid). No Tees or parts needed. Stop when it comes out the exhaust...
I just pour pink pop into the water filter (with clear plastic lid). No Tees or parts needed. Stop when it comes out the exhaust...
Red - what about the thru-hull?
Red, Your T idea is on my fall project list for both my engine intake and head intake lines. Question for you - how do you ensure that the thru hull valve and that end of the hose get anti-freeze? Thanks! Sherry
Red, Your T idea is on my fall project list for both my engine intake and head intake lines. Question for you - how do you ensure that the thru hull valve and that end of the hose get anti-freeze? Thanks! Sherry
before the filter!
If the suggested "T" is installed between the filter and the engine, then you risk leaving the filter full of water (and thus a risk of freezing). The "T' should be installed between the thruhull and the filter. I haven't yet installed one of these "T"'s but plan on doing it. I feel that removing the hose clamps every year exposes the clamps and hoses to unnecessary wear and tear, and increases the chances of making a mistake. All thruhull hoses and clamps should be checked and inspected every year no matter what anyway. Chris
If the suggested "T" is installed between the filter and the engine, then you risk leaving the filter full of water (and thus a risk of freezing). The "T' should be installed between the thruhull and the filter. I haven't yet installed one of these "T"'s but plan on doing it. I feel that removing the hose clamps every year exposes the clamps and hoses to unnecessary wear and tear, and increases the chances of making a mistake. All thruhull hoses and clamps should be checked and inspected every year no matter what anyway. Chris
"T" just another weak point
Why would you want to introduce another potential weak spot in the cooling circuit with this "T". If you splice a "T" in, you introduce three more points where something can go wrong. It's easier to take the intake hose off the through hull. Taking this hose off once a year keeps it from sticking and being permanently "bonded" to the through hull. Easy to take off if you overheat and have to check if the through hull has picked something up.
Why would you want to introduce another potential weak spot in the cooling circuit with this "T". If you splice a "T" in, you introduce three more points where something can go wrong. It's easier to take the intake hose off the through hull. Taking this hose off once a year keeps it from sticking and being permanently "bonded" to the through hull. Easy to take off if you overheat and have to check if the through hull has picked something up.
easy solution
very simple way to winterize the raw water cooled engine is as follows: remove the hose that goes from the engine exhaust manifold to the mixing elbow. run a hose from the exhaust manifold into a bucket. plug the inlet hole in the mixing elbow with a bit of old rag ( make sure you get it back out again when you're done) then remove the engine intake hose from the water pump & run a hose from the pump inlet into the bucket. Now, put your antifreeze mixture in the bucket and then start the engine, let it run until it gets up to normal operating tempthen sht it off, re connect the exhaust , start it again & run till antifreeze comes out the exhaust. shut it off and ....you're done !! been doing it this way for over 20 years andiI'm in Canada where it gets really cold, never had a problem. Hope this helps.
very simple way to winterize the raw water cooled engine is as follows: remove the hose that goes from the engine exhaust manifold to the mixing elbow. run a hose from the exhaust manifold into a bucket. plug the inlet hole in the mixing elbow with a bit of old rag ( make sure you get it back out again when you're done) then remove the engine intake hose from the water pump & run a hose from the pump inlet into the bucket. Now, put your antifreeze mixture in the bucket and then start the engine, let it run until it gets up to normal operating tempthen sht it off, re connect the exhaust , start it again & run till antifreeze comes out the exhaust. shut it off and ....you're done !! been doing it this way for over 20 years andiI'm in Canada where it gets really cold, never had a problem. Hope this helps.
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