1st year sailor with a catlina 22 winged keel.Just a question about winterizing a 6 hp johnson. Put approx 20 hrs this sail season on the motor ,i was going to defog motor but should i also change the oil before puting it away. Getting mixed opinions from different sources Thanks JaCK
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I would.
20 hours on a high rpm engine really beats the oil (assuming this is a 4 stroke engine,based upon your comments). It's always good to store an engine with clean oil rather than leaving contaminants in the crankcase for a long lay-up. Can't be too difficult to change it. Then run it for a few miunutes. Then fog it. Also remember to fog the cylinder(s) after the carb. Remove the plug(s) and spray it right in there, give it a couple of cranks to spread the fogging oil, replace the plugs and put it away in a warm, dry place. Then every month give it a small pull to keep the cylinders loose and respread the fogging oil.
20 hours on a high rpm engine really beats the oil (assuming this is a 4 stroke engine,based upon your comments). It's always good to store an engine with clean oil rather than leaving contaminants in the crankcase for a long lay-up. Can't be too difficult to change it. Then run it for a few miunutes. Then fog it. Also remember to fog the cylinder(s) after the carb. Remove the plug(s) and spray it right in there, give it a couple of cranks to spread the fogging oil, replace the plugs and put it away in a warm, dry place. Then every month give it a small pull to keep the cylinders loose and respread the fogging oil.
Winterizing
Besides fogging cylinders and oil change, it is a good time to be sure the lower unit is full of fluid. Also, I like to disconnect the gas line in the final run of the season, and run the carb as dry as possible. A little choke as it is starving for gas helps use it all up. And be sure you get all the water out of the system if you are in a place that freezes. This is usually just by having it upright for a while after pulling it out of the water. Dick K.
Besides fogging cylinders and oil change, it is a good time to be sure the lower unit is full of fluid. Also, I like to disconnect the gas line in the final run of the season, and run the carb as dry as possible. A little choke as it is starving for gas helps use it all up. And be sure you get all the water out of the system if you are in a place that freezes. This is usually just by having it upright for a while after pulling it out of the water. Dick K.
Fogging the carb.
Dick, I have been taught by an outboard mechanic to fog the carb while the motor is idling and the fogging oil will cause it to stall as it is sucking the oil deep into the carb. Thus, I don't beleive there is a way to run the fuel out when you fog the carb. Is there another way?
Dick, I have been taught by an outboard mechanic to fog the carb while the motor is idling and the fogging oil will cause it to stall as it is sucking the oil deep into the carb. Thus, I don't beleive there is a way to run the fuel out when you fog the carb. Is there another way?
Run in Fresh Water
An outboard will last longer if it is run in fresh water to get the salt out. This could be done with an oil drum, large garbage can and a stand for the outboard, or easier, with a garden hose adapter that attaches to the lower unit where the water intake is. Doing this after each use in salt water is also recommended. Store motor in a manner specified in your owners manual which is probably usually upright. After going through all the winterizing effort don't allow the lower unit to get higher than the head. I'd think the owners manual would have a winterizing checklist.
An outboard will last longer if it is run in fresh water to get the salt out. This could be done with an oil drum, large garbage can and a stand for the outboard, or easier, with a garden hose adapter that attaches to the lower unit where the water intake is. Doing this after each use in salt water is also recommended. Store motor in a manner specified in your owners manual which is probably usually upright. After going through all the winterizing effort don't allow the lower unit to get higher than the head. I'd think the owners manual would have a winterizing checklist.
Fuel Stablizer
I agree with just about all the comments made by fellow writers in this matter. One additional though.....Add "fuel stablizer" to your fuel tank and run the engine for five minutes or so to get the treated fuel into the engine. I suggest you do not run the engine dry of fuel. The reason is when the carburetor is run dry, the interior walls are subject to corrosion due to contact with the air. In the Spring, start the engine in a barrel or something....then clean & regap (or replace) the spark plugs. Good Luck!
I agree with just about all the comments made by fellow writers in this matter. One additional though.....Add "fuel stablizer" to your fuel tank and run the engine for five minutes or so to get the treated fuel into the engine. I suggest you do not run the engine dry of fuel. The reason is when the carburetor is run dry, the interior walls are subject to corrosion due to contact with the air. In the Spring, start the engine in a barrel or something....then clean & regap (or replace) the spark plugs. Good Luck!
Pull Plugs
Paul, you can fog with an atomizing oil by pulling plug and inserting there, then turn the engine over by hand. Killing the engine by fogging through the carb is a good technique that we used to use with an air boat. Warren, I'm not sure which is best. Stabalizer is definitely good for a few months, but I wonder when one puts up the engine for a few years? The first OB I ever had was used and had a lot of "varnish" in the carb which we thought was from the gas evaporating and leaving behind the "varnish". Over the past 40 yrs in the arid West, have had no problem with the running dry approach, though it has always been with 2-cycle engines. Perhaps a 4-cycle is more toouchy as they wouldn't leave an oil surface over the inside of the carb. parts. Dick
Paul, you can fog with an atomizing oil by pulling plug and inserting there, then turn the engine over by hand. Killing the engine by fogging through the carb is a good technique that we used to use with an air boat. Warren, I'm not sure which is best. Stabalizer is definitely good for a few months, but I wonder when one puts up the engine for a few years? The first OB I ever had was used and had a lot of "varnish" in the carb which we thought was from the gas evaporating and leaving behind the "varnish". Over the past 40 yrs in the arid West, have had no problem with the running dry approach, though it has always been with 2-cycle engines. Perhaps a 4-cycle is more toouchy as they wouldn't leave an oil surface over the inside of the carb. parts. Dick
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