Winterize water heater

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R. Palaia

Hi Peggie, Thanks for your time on this site. My question is about the water heater. I've read your tip on what to do with the water system. I've drained the water heater and placed a bypass, connecting the inlet and outlet hoses together. My concern is the water heater still has water inside. I've opened the petcock, which is about 1/3 of the way up. I also, opened the T&P valve like seaward suggests in their manual. I drained the heater through the petcock, but I know there is still water in the tank. When the boat sways (it's still in the water), water dribbles out of the petcock. Also, when I blow into the heater inlet hose (now disconnected), I can hear the water gurgle. Your tip doesn't say about putting "pink antifreeze" in the heater. I can understand why if I can get all the water out, but now I'm not sure because there is water still in there that could freeze. Thanks for your help. Roc
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

This ought to explain what you need to do, Roc

WINTERIZATION Before beginning winterization, be sure the power is turned off to the water heater. Open all hot water taps on the boat to relieve the pressure, then remove both lines from the heater and allow it to drain. After it has drained, blow it out with air pressure, if available. Pour a quart of nontoxic antifreeze (propylene gly-col) into the hot water fitting of the tank using a funnel and short length of hose. Be sure power remains off until spring. When recommissioning in the spring, run water long enough to insure that all antifreeze has been flushed out and tank is filled BEFORE TURNING ON POWER. Heat exchangers are winterized in con-junction with the boat’s engine cooling system.
 
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R. Palaia

Thanks Peggie

I'll try the air compressor. I have one that might work. I guess my lungs couldn't generate enough pressure :) Regards, Roc
 
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Ed Schenck

Or try...

We take off the outlet side hose after emptying as much as possible. With the inlet side still attached to the tank we turn on the pump. But the inlet side of the pump has been removed from the water tanks and attached to a short hose which is in a gallon jug of pink anti-freeze. A short run of the pump will put enough pink-stuff in the hot water tank so you don't have to worry about it. Now connect the inlet and outlet hoses together and finish pumping anti-freeze through the system.
 
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Charlie

heater water drain

I had the same problem with the drain valve being to high to drain all of the water. I took Peggies advice and put a bypass on the system and this works fine for the rest of the system. As for the water in the tank, I have a small pump that works off of a 38 drill. I removed the drain valve, no water came out, and shoved the hose into the heater. Guess what, about 4 gal of water was pumped into a 5 gal bucket. After that I poured a cup of antifreeze into the heater, probably overkill, I won't worry about freezing problems. Charlie
 
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Ken Palmer

What's a little ice?

I remove the input and output hoses after hauling for the winter. I then connect the hoses together, bypassing the tank. I then place a garden hose on the drain valve, and run the water into my bildge, where it is pumped out. I have in affect, drained all but a very little of the water. I do not put antifreeze in the tank, and never had a problem. The problem with ice forming during the winter, is that it expands. If it is in a restricted area, it will crack it's container (like a hose or valve). If you only have a little ice in the hot water heater, and it freezes, it will expand upwards since there is so much room withing the tank now. Have you ever filled a gallon milk jug 3/4 full and put it into your freezer to make block ice? Same thing; the container doesn't break if there is room for the ice to expand. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty H33, Rochester, NY
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

Only one thing wrong with milk jug theory, Ken

In addition to the liquid inside having room to expand, the plastic milk jug can expand too... Try the same experiment with a glass bottle and you're likely to get a different result. Since water heaters are glass lined, you've just been lucky. The winterizing directions I posted were "Edit/copy/pasted" straight from the Raritan water heater manual...my advice: follow 'em.
 
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Bob Carlton

Peggy, why the hot h2o outlet?

Why does the antifreeze go into the hot water outlet? I would think that it would go into the cold water inlet.
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

Because it's easier...

The cold water inlet is at the bottom...can be harder to get to in many cases than the hot water outlet at the top.
 
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R. Palaia

I did what Peggie said and it worked

I drained the water heater just the way Peggie suggested in her reply to my question. As I said in my original post, I drained as much as I could from the petcock. Because the petcock is about half way up the heater, there was still water left (could hear it gurgle when I blew into the inlet hose). I got my little air compressor and jury rigged a coupling to connect the trigger nozzle of the compressor to the outlet hose of the heater (the outlet hose is a little higher than the inlet, I wanted to push the water down not up). Set the compressor to about 40 psi, and bingo!! all the water came gushing out the inlet hose into a bucket!! I then placed a little funnel on to the end of the inlet heater hose and poured about a quart of pink antifreeze. Whole thing took about 15 minutes. Thanks Peggie for your help!! Roc
 
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Ken Palmer

Peggy, I disagree

If the water were to freeze instantly, yes, it might break the glass. However, in the real world, it freezes over a period of time, giving the water time to expand upwards into the large open space as it freezes. I will take you up on your challenge and try an experiment tonight in my freezer. If I am wrong, boy will my wife be mad at me. I'll let you know the results tomorrow. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

It's your boat, Ken...

And you're the one who'll have to foot the bill if your luck runs out on your own boat. But as a marine "pro," I'll stick with mfrs' directions for winterizing. It may be erring on the side of caution...but I've found that erring on the side of caution is far less likely to cause problems--and cost less money--than recommending that people take risks which MIGHT have pitfalls that aren't immediately obvious to them just 'cuz someone else gets away with it.
 
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Jim Ewing

It depends where...

...it starts to freeze first. If it freezes from the bottom up then you're fine. If it freezes from the top down you're screwed. Try putting an open top can full of water in the freezer and see what happens. The top freezes first and tries (maybe succeeds) in blowing out the bottom. As Peggy said "It's your boat..." Jim "Prospect"
 
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Jay Hill

Eliminate the Problem?

Wouldn't it just be easier to move where it never freezes? It works for me; I hope I never have to winterize. I don't think I could stand NOT sailing for that long. "To each his own" Jay
 
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