Anyone have a suggestion as to how I can drain the freshwater tank? Or, do I really need to drain it for the winter, will freezing water in the tank damage it or any of those plastic pipes connecting from it.
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Yes, you need to drain the water tank
When water freezes, it expands...and when it tries to expand further than it has room to expand--in the plumbing or the tank--it breaks something. After you've drained the water tank, then winterize both your fresh water and sanitation systems: Winterizing Plumbing FRESH WATER SYSTEM 1. Drain the water tanks completely. 2. Drain water heater - remove both the inlet and outlet hoses to be sure to get all the water out. 3. Connect water heater inlet and outlet hoses together. 4. Add non-toxic anitfreeze ("the pink stuff") and pump that through the system until all outlets--hot and cold in the galley, head, shower, and any deck wash run only antifreeze. Leave all the faucets open to make sure there is no pressure on the system. SANITATION SYSTEM 1. Pump holding tank out, then rinse thoroughly by completely filling with fresh water and 1 gallon of white vinegar twice. 2. Close inlet through-hull, disconnect inlet hose and stick it in a gallon of non-toxic ("the pink stuff") antifreeze. Pump the whole gallon through the system into the holding tank. Do not reconnect head intake hose to the through-hull. 3. Pump the head 50 times to get as much fluid out of the system as possible. 4. After the boat comes out of the water, open all the sea cocks to drain any trapped water.
When water freezes, it expands...and when it tries to expand further than it has room to expand--in the plumbing or the tank--it breaks something. After you've drained the water tank, then winterize both your fresh water and sanitation systems: Winterizing Plumbing FRESH WATER SYSTEM 1. Drain the water tanks completely. 2. Drain water heater - remove both the inlet and outlet hoses to be sure to get all the water out. 3. Connect water heater inlet and outlet hoses together. 4. Add non-toxic anitfreeze ("the pink stuff") and pump that through the system until all outlets--hot and cold in the galley, head, shower, and any deck wash run only antifreeze. Leave all the faucets open to make sure there is no pressure on the system. SANITATION SYSTEM 1. Pump holding tank out, then rinse thoroughly by completely filling with fresh water and 1 gallon of white vinegar twice. 2. Close inlet through-hull, disconnect inlet hose and stick it in a gallon of non-toxic ("the pink stuff") antifreeze. Pump the whole gallon through the system into the holding tank. Do not reconnect head intake hose to the through-hull. 3. Pump the head 50 times to get as much fluid out of the system as possible. 4. After the boat comes out of the water, open all the sea cocks to drain any trapped water.
What I do.
Mel, Depends on how much water is in the tank. On the H260 I installed a tee connection with a hose fitting that I attached to drill pump and dump the water. Once it is empty, I dump in two gallons of pink antifreeze. the 50/50 stuff into the tank. Then I run the water at the two faucets until I see pink. Stop and wait for spring time. Come spring I flush the system until I get real tired of doing it. Usually about three tank fulls before I feel all of the antifreeze is out of the system. Jim S/V Java
Mel, Depends on how much water is in the tank. On the H260 I installed a tee connection with a hose fitting that I attached to drill pump and dump the water. Once it is empty, I dump in two gallons of pink antifreeze. the 50/50 stuff into the tank. Then I run the water at the two faucets until I see pink. Stop and wait for spring time. Come spring I flush the system until I get real tired of doing it. Usually about three tank fulls before I feel all of the antifreeze is out of the system. Jim S/V Java
I do too
I do like Jim, but I get tired of running the anti-freeze out in the spring and just flush the system once. For a while I get a kind of tangy taste in the pinkish water, but my pipes don't freez.
I do like Jim, but I get tired of running the anti-freeze out in the spring and just flush the system once. For a while I get a kind of tangy taste in the pinkish water, but my pipes don't freez.
Getting rid of antifreeze in the spring...
Recommissioning the system (which should be done once a year whether you winterize or not) will get rid of the taste. Watch this space for instructions along about March...and April...and May...and prob'ly even June for the climatically challenged.
Recommissioning the system (which should be done once a year whether you winterize or not) will get rid of the taste. Watch this space for instructions along about March...and April...and May...and prob'ly even June for the climatically challenged.
winterize....cheap stuff
living in the NE...winterizing is a way of life. I had a mechanic give me a $ saving tip once with regard to winterizing. Bur gallons of windshield washer fluid on sale around here for 99 cents/gallon. It will hold down to about 30 below! Good stuff Cheap! I have done this for a while. btw...I don't drink water from my holding tank...for washing only. I do give it a good rinse in the spring and also use vinegar as a rinse.
living in the NE...winterizing is a way of life. I had a mechanic give me a $ saving tip once with regard to winterizing. Bur gallons of windshield washer fluid on sale around here for 99 cents/gallon. It will hold down to about 30 below! Good stuff Cheap! I have done this for a while. btw...I don't drink water from my holding tank...for washing only. I do give it a good rinse in the spring and also use vinegar as a rinse.
Skip the antifreeze- Blow out the lines
For 20 years in the northeast I have pumped my tank as dry as possible, disconnected my pump and used my dinghy air pump to blow air back in to the tank, through the pump, and into the line feeding the rest of the water system. When the faucets stop spitting water, you are done. Of course you have to drain the HW heater too. I make sure that I blow air into all lines to rid them of water. No antifreeze to buy. No bad taste to deal with in the spring. Fairly quick to do. Peggy has a cleaning proceedure that I will do this spring just ot keep my tanks fresh. Rich
For 20 years in the northeast I have pumped my tank as dry as possible, disconnected my pump and used my dinghy air pump to blow air back in to the tank, through the pump, and into the line feeding the rest of the water system. When the faucets stop spitting water, you are done. Of course you have to drain the HW heater too. I make sure that I blow air into all lines to rid them of water. No antifreeze to buy. No bad taste to deal with in the spring. Fairly quick to do. Peggy has a cleaning proceedure that I will do this spring just ot keep my tanks fresh. Rich
Thanks
Thanks. Looks like I got some work to do soon, too bad it snowed here this morning. I like the "blow the tank dry with air" idea. I've had the boat a few years now, but just fixed the leaky tank connections this past spring, so its the first winter with water in the tank. I would guess the previous owner had some freezing issues by the way the connections were all pushed apart.
Thanks. Looks like I got some work to do soon, too bad it snowed here this morning. I like the "blow the tank dry with air" idea. I've had the boat a few years now, but just fixed the leaky tank connections this past spring, so its the first winter with water in the tank. I would guess the previous owner had some freezing issues by the way the connections were all pushed apart.
Wind Sheild Washer Fluid is TOXIC!
.....to you and the aquatic environment. Most contain methanol which can cause blindness if injested.
.....to you and the aquatic environment. Most contain methanol which can cause blindness if injested.
John of Cape Cod.
John: I would have to agree with Bill E. If you buy the RV antifreeze on sale you can get it cheap too. We (all of us) should not be pouring anything toxic into the environment. Considering you need 3-4 gals of this stuff in your system and it costs about $3/ gal. you are not really saving enough money to worry about. Besides the RV stuff goes to 50 or 100 below.
John: I would have to agree with Bill E. If you buy the RV antifreeze on sale you can get it cheap too. We (all of us) should not be pouring anything toxic into the environment. Considering you need 3-4 gals of this stuff in your system and it costs about $3/ gal. you are not really saving enough money to worry about. Besides the RV stuff goes to 50 or 100 below.
step a mask without a crane 27'hunter?
has anyone attempted to step a mast on a 27' hunter using 3 able bodied people without a crane? this is a 1979. If yes....any hints?
has anyone attempted to step a mast on a 27' hunter using 3 able bodied people without a crane? this is a 1979. If yes....any hints?
rv antifreeze
Not only is it toxic, but you're saving pennies! West marine, and most auto stores, have the RV stuff for $2 per gallon-why risk your health, and the environment?
Not only is it toxic, but you're saving pennies! West marine, and most auto stores, have the RV stuff for $2 per gallon-why risk your health, and the environment?
Maybe with 6 people??
You need to be able to stabilize and control the top of the mast. I think that takes at least 3 independent lines if you are doing it from the ground. Then, you need (at the same time) to keep the lower end of the mast off the boat - that's at least 2 strong people to take the load of the mast. Finally, you need one more person to organize the cables, and match the lower end to the boot while the two lifters lower it to the deck. We do it easily with two people and a crane. How far away is the nearest crane? David Lady Lillie '77 h27
You need to be able to stabilize and control the top of the mast. I think that takes at least 3 independent lines if you are doing it from the ground. Then, you need (at the same time) to keep the lower end of the mast off the boat - that's at least 2 strong people to take the load of the mast. Finally, you need one more person to organize the cables, and match the lower end to the boot while the two lifters lower it to the deck. We do it easily with two people and a crane. How far away is the nearest crane? David Lady Lillie '77 h27
Vodka- I'm Serious!!
I have a permanent 13 gal. tank on my '94 H-26 and over the years of winterizing I have done the line blowing and pink RV anti-freeze methods. Both of them were a pain, especially the anti-freeze. My pumps ran more flushing the system than I ran them during the season. Last year one of the sailing mags had a suggestion to run the tank dry and then put in 1/2 gal of the cheapest vodka you can find ($7.99 here), then pump it out until you get it out the faucets. I just did it last week and I now have vodka at the faucet. Such a deal! My only concern is if the grain alcohol in the vodka will affect the bladder in the tank. What do you think?
I have a permanent 13 gal. tank on my '94 H-26 and over the years of winterizing I have done the line blowing and pink RV anti-freeze methods. Both of them were a pain, especially the anti-freeze. My pumps ran more flushing the system than I ran them during the season. Last year one of the sailing mags had a suggestion to run the tank dry and then put in 1/2 gal of the cheapest vodka you can find ($7.99 here), then pump it out until you get it out the faucets. I just did it last week and I now have vodka at the faucet. Such a deal! My only concern is if the grain alcohol in the vodka will affect the bladder in the tank. What do you think?
Vodka doesn't work!
Although straight un-cut vodka won't freeze, even a 75/25 cut with water will (if you doubt this, put a glass with that ratio in your freezer overnight). A half/gallon of vodka in the 1-3 gallons left in the tank after it's drained might as well not even be there. Anyone who tells you it works for them would be just as well off not bothering to winterize at all...'cuz it never gets cold enough.
Although straight un-cut vodka won't freeze, even a 75/25 cut with water will (if you doubt this, put a glass with that ratio in your freezer overnight). A half/gallon of vodka in the 1-3 gallons left in the tank after it's drained might as well not even be there. Anyone who tells you it works for them would be just as well off not bothering to winterize at all...'cuz it never gets cold enough.
Hunter Owners Manual
The Hunter Owners Manual for my H-35 (also for the H-23, 26.5, 28.5, 333, 37, 40, and the 45), "Chapter V. Storage/Winterization, E. Water System", says: "Open a faucet and allow the pump to empty the tank. Then add approximately two gallons of non-toxic anti-freeze solution to the tank and repeat the pumping out procedure." There is a second paragraph about an alternate method which is blowing air through the system. Curious what the Owners Manual says for your 25.5.
The Hunter Owners Manual for my H-35 (also for the H-23, 26.5, 28.5, 333, 37, 40, and the 45), "Chapter V. Storage/Winterization, E. Water System", says: "Open a faucet and allow the pump to empty the tank. Then add approximately two gallons of non-toxic anti-freeze solution to the tank and repeat the pumping out procedure." There is a second paragraph about an alternate method which is blowing air through the system. Curious what the Owners Manual says for your 25.5.
I'd recommend modifying that slightly
Open ALL faucets, not just one...especially after adding antifreeze. And be sure that antifreeze runs out of every faucet. Opening just one faucet to pull antifreeze through the system could leave plain water in lines going to other faucets. If you have a hot water tank, drain it completely and bypass it before winterizing...if you can't drain it completely, add antifreeze directly into the water heater through the outlet fitting. Running antifreeze through it from the water tank will just fill up the water heater with antifreeze...you'd need gallons of it to go through the water heater to the rest of the hot water plumbing. Make sure the water heater is off at the breaker and do NOT turn it on again until ALL the antifreeze has been flushed out of it and the entire fresh water system has been recomissioned.
Open ALL faucets, not just one...especially after adding antifreeze. And be sure that antifreeze runs out of every faucet. Opening just one faucet to pull antifreeze through the system could leave plain water in lines going to other faucets. If you have a hot water tank, drain it completely and bypass it before winterizing...if you can't drain it completely, add antifreeze directly into the water heater through the outlet fitting. Running antifreeze through it from the water tank will just fill up the water heater with antifreeze...you'd need gallons of it to go through the water heater to the rest of the hot water plumbing. Make sure the water heater is off at the breaker and do NOT turn it on again until ALL the antifreeze has been flushed out of it and the entire fresh water system has been recomissioned.
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