Here I am again-the new guy with the very recently purchased 1987 c&c 35 MKII; I’m sure I’ll be asking for help plenty. I’m totally a tools and hands on owner. But I never before owned a c&c. So this vessel has the original hot water tank. I‘m not sure of the best way to winterize it. Such as where do I drain it to? If any sailor out there has the same model and vintage I would appreciate your advice.
Winterization of hot water tank
- Thread starter Jimongee
- Start date
Jim.
it is a little difficult to be the “new guy” with a history showing you joined in 2012.
But having a new to you boat like the C&C can at times feel like … What do I do now?
Are you still in Folsom CA , or back in Michigan with this new boat? How you put the boat to bed for winter can be dependent on what waters the boat resides.
Hot water tanks are generic not boat builder specific.Winterization is generally about getting the water out of the tank. Up here in the PacificNW with the boat in the water 365 days, it means pumping the water out through the drains. Opening the pressure relief valve. Using compressed air to blow out the water lines if we are expecting a deep freeze and no heat on the boat. Not the extreme effort applied as in the MidWest or East coast. We generally do not experience the frigid bone numbing temperatures, weeks on end sub zero conditions.
With hoses in good condition and moderate winter temps tanks survive typical winter conditions. Especially if you sail during the winter.
What condition is the tank in? How did the previous owner care for the tank?
Enjoy the new to you boat. Quite a step up from the Hobie14 or the Hunter 22.
it is a little difficult to be the “new guy” with a history showing you joined in 2012.
But having a new to you boat like the C&C can at times feel like … What do I do now?
Are you still in Folsom CA , or back in Michigan with this new boat? How you put the boat to bed for winter can be dependent on what waters the boat resides.
Hot water tanks are generic not boat builder specific.Winterization is generally about getting the water out of the tank. Up here in the PacificNW with the boat in the water 365 days, it means pumping the water out through the drains. Opening the pressure relief valve. Using compressed air to blow out the water lines if we are expecting a deep freeze and no heat on the boat. Not the extreme effort applied as in the MidWest or East coast. We generally do not experience the frigid bone numbing temperatures, weeks on end sub zero conditions.
With hoses in good condition and moderate winter temps tanks survive typical winter conditions. Especially if you sail during the winter.
What condition is the tank in? How did the previous owner care for the tank?
Enjoy the new to you boat. Quite a step up from the Hobie14 or the Hunter 22.
Drain the tank into the bilge and pump it out. If there is not a dedicated drain on the tank, pull the intake hose off of it and it should drain. If there is a check valve (there should be one) use a wire tire or small screwdriver to open the valve by inserting it into the check valve to open the gate.
Don't put any antifreeze into the tank, it is not necessary. Any residual water will freeze and there is plenty of room for expansion. Do put a piece of blue masking tape on the circuit breaker to prevent it from being accidentally turned one when there is no water in the tank.
Connect the intake and outlet together and then run AF through the system. Or you can buy a bypass kit (Amazon Link). Avoid putting AF in the freshwater tanks, it takes forever to get it out.
For more detail, read this post from @Peggie Hall HeadMistress
Don't put any antifreeze into the tank, it is not necessary. Any residual water will freeze and there is plenty of room for expansion. Do put a piece of blue masking tape on the circuit breaker to prevent it from being accidentally turned one when there is no water in the tank.
Connect the intake and outlet together and then run AF through the system. Or you can buy a bypass kit (Amazon Link). Avoid putting AF in the freshwater tanks, it takes forever to get it out.
For more detail, read this post from @Peggie Hall HeadMistress
WINTERIZING PLUMBING
WINTERIZING PLUMBING FRESH WATER SYSTEM : There are two ways to winterize fresh water and sanitation plumbing: with antifreeze and without antifreeze. If you opt for the “no antifreeze” method, ALL the water MUST be removed from the entire system. Why? Because it’s not freezing...
forums.sailboatowners.com
Thank you Jssailem and dlochner. I actually now live in Nashville, tn but will keep our C & C a Manitowoc, wi.
And for the record after the Hunter 22 we purchased a hunter 36 and sell that for 10 years in the great lakes then gave it up for a couple years by selling the 36 and then got the bug in here. We are with the C & C!
Thanks for your help about the winterization of the hot water tank. Pretty much what I did for your advice on the Hunter, but it was a direct shot to drain that one into the bilge. this one Looks like it might be a little bit different.
And for the record after the Hunter 22 we purchased a hunter 36 and sell that for 10 years in the great lakes then gave it up for a couple years by selling the 36 and then got the bug in here. We are with the C & C!
Thanks for your help about the winterization of the hot water tank. Pretty much what I did for your advice on the Hunter, but it was a direct shot to drain that one into the bilge. this one Looks like it might be a little bit different.
On my boat, an O’Day 322, I can pull a cockpit drain hose off the thru hull, and drain my WH out of the boat. Obviously, the thru hull needs to be above the waterline 
.
Otherwise, drain to the bilge as others have said. If you have a hose connection on the WH drain, put a garden hose on it, and drain to the bilge. Worst case, just open the drain valve, and the water will eventually make its way to the bilge.
I usually open the T&P valve to break the vacuum and let air into the tank as the water drains. In fact, I usually use an air compressor to push the water out. I do bypass my WH for the winter…so I just drain it well, and don’t put AF into the heater.
A quick bypass can be done by removing the inlet and outlets from the water heater, and join them with a short piece of the appropriate threaded pipe.
Greg
.Otherwise, drain to the bilge as others have said. If you have a hose connection on the WH drain, put a garden hose on it, and drain to the bilge. Worst case, just open the drain valve, and the water will eventually make its way to the bilge.
I usually open the T&P valve to break the vacuum and let air into the tank as the water drains. In fact, I usually use an air compressor to push the water out. I do bypass my WH for the winter…so I just drain it well, and don’t put AF into the heater.
A quick bypass can be done by removing the inlet and outlets from the water heater, and join them with a short piece of the appropriate threaded pipe.
Greg
Another option for draining the HW tank is using a small 12v diaphragm pump. I picked one up on Amazon for around $30 wired a plug to it and now I pump the water out of the tank and into 5 gallon bucket, which needs to be emptied once. This helps to know if I removed all the water. The pumps are typically used by home brewers, wine makers, or aquarium owners to move liquids around.
My heater has a hose to divert any water from the T&P valve to the bilge. I used to open the valve and use compressed air to push the water out that way, but on our flat bottomed Beneteau that meant lots of water just getting into the grid, then eventually trickling into the bilge as the boat rocked. So now I connect that output hose to a second short length of hose and run it out the galley sink drain.
