As long as I have owned my Hunter, three years at this point she has spent the winter on the hard. I am thinking of keeping her on the water this season as there is no work needed below the waterline this year and the previous owner alternated a year on a year off. So I guess the first question does this make sense. Second if I do keep her on the water what needs to be done to keep the engine safe. The fresh water and holding tanks I assume are treated just as if she were on the hard. I have hopes that we can get her out at least occasionally through Dec and start up again in Feb. I know some people go out year round here in Baltimore how do you deal with protecting the raw water side of the system. The current engine is a ym15 Yanmar.
Winterazation for a boat on the water
- Thread starter MLampner
- Start date
- Status
My Catalina 320 and previously my Beneteau 281 stayed in the water for up to 3 years between bottom jobs. All you have to do to protect the engine is close the thru-hull raw water intake, disconnect the hose leading to the pump, stick the hose in a bucket or gallon jug of "pink stuff" antifreeze and start the engine. Once the pink stuff starts discharging from the exhaust, your done.
The hardest part for me has been getting the hose off the thru hull so I have spliced in a "T" fitting, used for draining car radiators, into the raw water hose going to the pump so all I have to do is shut the thru-hull seacock, take the cap off the "T" fitting, screw on a length of garden hose and stick it into the pink stuff. Keeping the jug of pink stuff in the cockpit, above the engine helps the pump pick up prime. The "T" fitting is available at any auto parts store for about $10.
The hardest part for me has been getting the hose off the thru hull so I have spliced in a "T" fitting, used for draining car radiators, into the raw water hose going to the pump so all I have to do is shut the thru-hull seacock, take the cap off the "T" fitting, screw on a length of garden hose and stick it into the pink stuff. Keeping the jug of pink stuff in the cockpit, above the engine helps the pump pick up prime. The "T" fitting is available at any auto parts store for about $10.
I keep my Bene 37 (and previous boats) in the water year around except for a week or two in years when the bottom needs work. wflowe describes what the engine needs(would also change the oil and remove impeller). The fresh water system and head/holding tank need the pink stuff too. I drain the tanks and run the antifreeze through the fresh water pump and hoses and pump a bit through the head into the holding tank. I don't put any in the water tanks.
I agree with CCHER except instead of using pink stuff in the fresh water system, I drain the water heater and remove the cold water "in" and hot water "out" hoses, connect them together to form a by pass of the water heater and then use a shop vac to blow and suck all the fresh water system piping and faucets dry. In the spring, I don't have to worry about getting the pink stuff out of the fresh water system.
I have photos of the raw water "T" and hot water bypass if you're interested
I have photos of the raw water "T" and hot water bypass if you're interested
I have adopted the use of cheap vodka or grain alcohol for the water system. It seems to help keep it fresh over the winter and if work gets to hard a couple of cubes of ice and some orange juice or tomato and spring cleaning is a party.
I had a cover made by the Canvas Shop. They have patterns for many common boats. Not cheap (mine was around $2400) but well made and well fitting.
http://www.thecanvasstore.com/Wintercover.html
http://www.thecanvasstore.com/Wintercover.html
These were taken across the bay from the middle river at Tolchester marina.
This is not a chance I want to take because you never know.
Best of luck
Ian
Nelson: for the cover- take a look at the owner mod section on this site under the older version of the Hunter 30's. used this system for a number of years and plan on re-using for this season up on the hard. Send me an "e" if you have any questions. This system can be done for about a hundred bucks or less.
This is not a chance I want to take because you never know.
Best of luck
Ian
Nelson: for the cover- take a look at the owner mod section on this site under the older version of the Hunter 30's. used this system for a number of years and plan on re-using for this season up on the hard. Send me an "e" if you have any questions. This system can be done for about a hundred bucks or less.
Attachments
Last edited:
For my Yanmar 3GMD just drain the engine by unscrewing the temp sensor at the front top and opening the drain petcock on the port side forward just behind the alternator. I haven't done anything with the water system, but probably should. Maybe install a shutoff valve in front of the FW pump. Run the tank as low as possible, and then blow out the lines downstream.
- Status