So I go to winterize my brand new (June 2011) used 5 times Honda 2 HP outboard. Gotta get the fuel out of it so it won't varnish up. Dumped the tank, then went to the carb drain screw placed conveniently so that you can put a screwdriver through the bottom of cowl...nice design....except it is already seized and of course the screw slot is shallow and the screw is soft metal and ....you guessed it....I have ruined the screw!Really for the money, I expected more from Honda, like good metal and maybe a hex head????? Na....dumb idea I guess. Anyone got any ideas?
Winter (outboard) Follies have begun
- Thread starter odaydokay
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That sucks. First, order a new drain screw, then drill the stripped one carefully and use an easy-out?
That probably what a tech guy would do, but the thing is under warranty and I should not have to take the risk of worsening or have to do the work. I do apprecaite the idea, but I sense I will have to take it for the 1/2 drive back to the dealer. You really nailed the "sucks" part, too.
Do appreciate your effort!
Warranties usually come with a bit of fine print, and this little problem may fall under that print. G'luck.
You may be able to deepen the slot with a small diameter cutting wheel on a Dremel if there isn't room for the vice grips.
Thanks...problem is the screw is recessed!!! No good on grips, probably no good on Dremel.
It is a very half-xxxed deal, this drain system.
Why didn't you just run it till the gas was gone?
You would probably still have some gas left inside the carbuerator that could varnish up just draining the engine. I was taught that it's best to run it dry for the winter, then spray a little oil into the spark plug and pull the cord a few times.
You would probably still have some gas left inside the carbuerator that could varnish up just draining the engine. I was taught that it's best to run it dry for the winter, then spray a little oil into the spark plug and pull the cord a few times.
This is probably odaydokay's best temporary solution, but the "tech guy" solution, drilling and using a screw extractor, is not that difficult. The biggest difficulty would be (for me) centering the drill bit as well as possible, and it doesn't have to be perfect, just good enough.
odaydokay, start with a smaller-than-needed bit in an accurately punched indentation in the screw head's slot, and drill, using eyes and brain at 90 degree positions to the bit, to keep it as square as possible. Sometimes two sets of eyes at 90 are better. Look hard, go slow and watch for any misalignment. Make sure you're not bending the bit while drilling. You must keep the pressure as squarely as possible on the bit . A benchtop drill press and a fixture would go a long way in this regard. Got a buddy with a drill press?
I usually shut the fuel valve off and run the engine until it quits from fuel starvation. Don't try to remove the screw until you secure a replacement first.
Leave the problem carb plug alone and it will be OK.
We always have removed the fuel line and run the motor out of gas. Be sure to do that in the water or with muffs on. Pull the sparkplug or plugs and fog the cyclinders with oil or WD40. Turn the engine over slowly a couple of times and re-fog. Replace the plugs with your new spare plugs and she's ready for winter. I then take a couple of toothpicks and prop open the gas hose end fittings and drain the line. Remove the toothpicks. If the engine is a 4 cycle pour the fuel from your fuel tank into your snowblower or car.
Now it's time to wait for spring while studying sail trim books.
May you have a short winter.
Ray
We always have removed the fuel line and run the motor out of gas. Be sure to do that in the water or with muffs on. Pull the sparkplug or plugs and fog the cyclinders with oil or WD40. Turn the engine over slowly a couple of times and re-fog. Replace the plugs with your new spare plugs and she's ready for winter. I then take a couple of toothpicks and prop open the gas hose end fittings and drain the line. Remove the toothpicks. If the engine is a 4 cycle pour the fuel from your fuel tank into your snowblower or car.
Now it's time to wait for spring while studying sail trim books.
May you have a short winter.
Ray
:cry:
Ouch. In the event that the damaged screw won't come out easily, is there another option for draining the carb, like taking the float bowl off?
You could tak the bowl off but be careful you do not encounter the same problem that you did with the drain plug. Depending on the condition of the gasket you may also need to replace it. From working on motorcycles in my youth I learned a few tricks in dealing with soft screws. You can sharpen a screw driver by hammering the end against a steel plate. You may then place that screw driver on the screw slot and tap it with a hammer. It should dig in and grab but also apply pressure towards the screw at the same time you turn the screw driver. The tapping impact may also help break the screw lock or seized as you call it. You will be tapping against the carburator bowl so do it firmly but lightly.
Many thanks to all. Wishing you all a short winter also (not off to a good start here in CT, unfortunately!!!)
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