I have a new Hunter 356 and need to soon prepare it for the brutal winter of Lake Superior. That said, I have not decommissioned this boat or this type of boat in the past. I am interested in a check list, detailed procedures and tip's that you are willing to share. It will be pulled form the lake in October and stored on a cradle. Thank you. Dave
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Toni
Pay and Watch
We faced the same problem last year with our new 356. It has many systems that our old boat did not have, as well as a diesel rather than Atomic 4 engine. Someone suggested that we pay the dealer to do the work, be there while he did it - and take extensive notes and pictures. Sounded like it would be money well spent. He walked us through every system (slowly) so that we would be able to do it ourselves this year. My husband took lots of digital pictures so that we would have a visual reference as well as extensive notes. When we face the harsh Lake Ontario winds next month we'll know whether we took enough notes.
We faced the same problem last year with our new 356. It has many systems that our old boat did not have, as well as a diesel rather than Atomic 4 engine. Someone suggested that we pay the dealer to do the work, be there while he did it - and take extensive notes and pictures. Sounded like it would be money well spent. He walked us through every system (slowly) so that we would be able to do it ourselves this year. My husband took lots of digital pictures so that we would have a visual reference as well as extensive notes. When we face the harsh Lake Ontario winds next month we'll know whether we took enough notes.
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Bob Keller
Good Idea
Paying and watching sounds like a very good idea. I took the basic yanmar course at Mack Boring and they went over the basics. At the end of the last season I decided to winterize myself and save about $500.00 for all of the various systems - obviously no savings if I messed up. I changed oil and filter for the engine and the oil in the transmision, simple process. I then closed the intake for the engine, removed the intake hose from the water pump, attached a 5 foot section of hose I had bought, filled a 5 gal bucket with anti freeze and started the engine, when the pink stuff came out from the exhaust for about a minute I shut the engine. The only thing I failed to do was remove the impeller which I will replace in the spring. The instructer at Mack Boring suggested that it be removed, cleaned and stored in olive oil for the winter. Good Luck, peace of mind says let the yard do the work. The water system was easy but the AC/Heat was a problem and I worried about it all winter but it was fine in this spring.
Paying and watching sounds like a very good idea. I took the basic yanmar course at Mack Boring and they went over the basics. At the end of the last season I decided to winterize myself and save about $500.00 for all of the various systems - obviously no savings if I messed up. I changed oil and filter for the engine and the oil in the transmision, simple process. I then closed the intake for the engine, removed the intake hose from the water pump, attached a 5 foot section of hose I had bought, filled a 5 gal bucket with anti freeze and started the engine, when the pink stuff came out from the exhaust for about a minute I shut the engine. The only thing I failed to do was remove the impeller which I will replace in the spring. The instructer at Mack Boring suggested that it be removed, cleaned and stored in olive oil for the winter. Good Luck, peace of mind says let the yard do the work. The water system was easy but the AC/Heat was a problem and I worried about it all winter but it was fine in this spring.
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Gene
Check List
Dave, I have a check list for a 35.5 Legend that I prepared with info gathered from different sources, if you are interested contact me at sundraft@aol.com and I will e-mail it to you. Best regards, Gene
Dave, I have a check list for a 35.5 Legend that I prepared with info gathered from different sources, if you are interested contact me at sundraft@aol.com and I will e-mail it to you. Best regards, Gene
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Peter Naylor
Check List received
Gene--- Thank you, very much -- Your list has/will really assist us! We continue to be amazed about the attitudes and contributions offered on the site! Best -- The Naylors
Gene--- Thank you, very much -- Your list has/will really assist us! We continue to be amazed about the attitudes and contributions offered on the site! Best -- The Naylors
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Allen Sauter
Decommissioning
This is my first year with a 1993 35.5 Legend. I went to the dark side from a 30' Catalina. Since this will be my first year winterizing this Hunter, I would appreciate your list. Please send it to me at greatframe@msn.com
This is my first year with a 1993 35.5 Legend. I went to the dark side from a 30' Catalina. Since this will be my first year winterizing this Hunter, I would appreciate your list. Please send it to me at greatframe@msn.com
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
Winterizing plumbing
An excerpt from my book (see link below): Fresh water system 1. Drain the water tanks completely (just turn on all the faucets). 2. Drain water heater. Most have a drain petcock; follow manufacturer’s instructions to find it and use it. Remove both the inlet and outlet hoses, and if necessary use a shop vac to be sure of gettting all the water out of it. 3.Connect water heater inlet and outlet hoses together. Bypass kits for this purpose are available from boat stores and RV supply stores. 4. Add non-toxic antifreeze ("the pink stuff") and pump that through the system until all outlets--hot and cold in the galley, head, shower, and any deck wash--run only antifreeze. Leave all the faucets open to make sure there is no pressure in the system. Sanitation system 1. Pump holding tank out, then rinse thoroughly by completely filling with fresh water and 1 gallon of white vinegar twice. 2. Close toilet intake through-hull, disconnect inlet hose and stick it in a gallon of non-toxic ("the pink stuff") antifreeze. Pump the whole gallon through the system into the holding tank. Do not reconnect head intake hose to the through-hull. 3. Pump the head 50 times to get as much fluid out of the system as possible. 4. After the boat comes out of the water, open all the sea cocks to drain any trapped water. Do not use antifreeze in a Lectra/San or PuraSan. Follow manufacturers instructions to winterize all Type I and II MSDs.
An excerpt from my book (see link below): Fresh water system 1. Drain the water tanks completely (just turn on all the faucets). 2. Drain water heater. Most have a drain petcock; follow manufacturer’s instructions to find it and use it. Remove both the inlet and outlet hoses, and if necessary use a shop vac to be sure of gettting all the water out of it. 3.Connect water heater inlet and outlet hoses together. Bypass kits for this purpose are available from boat stores and RV supply stores. 4. Add non-toxic antifreeze ("the pink stuff") and pump that through the system until all outlets--hot and cold in the galley, head, shower, and any deck wash--run only antifreeze. Leave all the faucets open to make sure there is no pressure in the system. Sanitation system 1. Pump holding tank out, then rinse thoroughly by completely filling with fresh water and 1 gallon of white vinegar twice. 2. Close toilet intake through-hull, disconnect inlet hose and stick it in a gallon of non-toxic ("the pink stuff") antifreeze. Pump the whole gallon through the system into the holding tank. Do not reconnect head intake hose to the through-hull. 3. Pump the head 50 times to get as much fluid out of the system as possible. 4. After the boat comes out of the water, open all the sea cocks to drain any trapped water. Do not use antifreeze in a Lectra/San or PuraSan. Follow manufacturers instructions to winterize all Type I and II MSDs.
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Phil
Peggy, why not put antifreeze in heater...
Typically, after I drain the entire system, I put about 10 gal of pink stuff in the water tank and run it through both hot and cold water lines. I think my water heater needs about 5 gal to get the whole thing filled. Also, I use the green stuff in the holding tank. This seems to be what folks in my yard use, so I just followed suit.
Typically, after I drain the entire system, I put about 10 gal of pink stuff in the water tank and run it through both hot and cold water lines. I think my water heater needs about 5 gal to get the whole thing filled. Also, I use the green stuff in the holding tank. This seems to be what folks in my yard use, so I just followed suit.
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
You're doing it the hard way
And, spending WAY too much money on antifreeze. The hot water tank only needs about a half gallon if there's no water in it. Bypassing it allows you to winterize the plumbing with just a couple of gallons of antifreeze. Regardless of what the yard has been doing, automotive antifreeze--ethylene glycol--should never be used in boat plumbing...it's HIGHLY destructive to rubber and neoprene. It's highly environmentally UNfriendly...there's no way to flush it out of the sanitation system and holding tank without either dumping it at sea or pumping it out. The yard should know better than to use it in a sanitation system. The holding tank isn't the only part of your sanitation system that requires winterizing...the toilet does too. Run the antifreeze through the toilet into the tank.
And, spending WAY too much money on antifreeze. The hot water tank only needs about a half gallon if there's no water in it. Bypassing it allows you to winterize the plumbing with just a couple of gallons of antifreeze. Regardless of what the yard has been doing, automotive antifreeze--ethylene glycol--should never be used in boat plumbing...it's HIGHLY destructive to rubber and neoprene. It's highly environmentally UNfriendly...there's no way to flush it out of the sanitation system and holding tank without either dumping it at sea or pumping it out. The yard should know better than to use it in a sanitation system. The holding tank isn't the only part of your sanitation system that requires winterizing...the toilet does too. Run the antifreeze through the toilet into the tank.
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