We purchased a 1985 C-30 this spring and would like to replace the badly worn winter cover before the upcoming blustery Ohio winter. I'd appreciate advice on canvas shops which have done such covers for a C-30. Or are there good homemade solutions to this need (since I've found costs to be at least $1000)? Do some owners here in the north not cover at all? Any advice or leads on manufacturers would be appreciated. Thanks. Greg Wilson
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G
Guest
C30 Cover
I cover my C30 with a 50 X 35 blue poly tarp. I support it by connecting 2ft tall 3/4 pcv pipe to the stantions with a 45 degree elbow at the end of the stantion. Then I attach another 4ft piece of pcv from the elbow to a pcv 4 way cross at the centerline of the boat. I use PCV pipe to connect all of the 4 way cross pieces producing a very strong frame. The blue poly tarp is draped over the frame and tied together on the underside of the boat. Works very well at a total cost of $150 most of which is the tarp. Marc P
I cover my C30 with a 50 X 35 blue poly tarp. I support it by connecting 2ft tall 3/4 pcv pipe to the stantions with a 45 degree elbow at the end of the stantion. Then I attach another 4ft piece of pcv from the elbow to a pcv 4 way cross at the centerline of the boat. I use PCV pipe to connect all of the 4 way cross pieces producing a very strong frame. The blue poly tarp is draped over the frame and tied together on the underside of the boat. Works very well at a total cost of $150 most of which is the tarp. Marc P
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Ken
Great idea - I am covering my Cat 30 for the first time this year - just purchased - Clarification - My mast will be taken down after being hauled and left on the boat. Is this the setup that you have?
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MarcP
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Greg Wilson
C-30 Cover Details
Marc, I'd appreciate talking with you offline about more details of your setup. Please e-mail me at gamlwilson@adelphia.net. Thanks. Greg
Marc, I'd appreciate talking with you offline about more details of your setup. Please e-mail me at gamlwilson@adelphia.net. Thanks. Greg
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Steve Mielke
WHY COVER?
I'VE OWNED CATALINA 30'S FOR 16 YEARS AND ONLY COVERED THE FIRST THREE YEARS. I FOUND THAT THE WIND BLEW DIRT UNDER THE TARP WHICH CAUSED HULL ABRASION WHEN THE FLAPING TARP GROUND THE DIRT INTO THE GEL COAT. SOMETIMES COVERING ALSO CAUSES A MUSTY SMELL DUE TO LACK OF AIR FLOW AND NO SUNLIGHT THROUGH WINDOWS. EVEN IF YOU COVER, YOU STILL HAVE THE SAME AMOUNT OF DECK CLEANING IN SPRING. STEVE
I'VE OWNED CATALINA 30'S FOR 16 YEARS AND ONLY COVERED THE FIRST THREE YEARS. I FOUND THAT THE WIND BLEW DIRT UNDER THE TARP WHICH CAUSED HULL ABRASION WHEN THE FLAPING TARP GROUND THE DIRT INTO THE GEL COAT. SOMETIMES COVERING ALSO CAUSES A MUSTY SMELL DUE TO LACK OF AIR FLOW AND NO SUNLIGHT THROUGH WINDOWS. EVEN IF YOU COVER, YOU STILL HAVE THE SAME AMOUNT OF DECK CLEANING IN SPRING. STEVE
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Joe R. Chicago-Hammond
Here's Why Cover
North of Kentucky we see a lot of snow and freezing rain. If you have even a slight leak due to a loose stantion or mast plate or any thing else that has been screwed or bolted through the deck, you are inviting moisture below the deck. When the cold winds blow, that moisture will freeze and expand. Do that a few times and you have a major route for moisture under the deck/hull and the next step is delamination or rotting of the marine plywood. Do yourself a favor and cover. Shrink wrap about $350 per season keeps out all the dirt(almost) and is vented to prevent the condensation. There will be a greenhouse effect which will help dry any moisture below the surface of the fiberglass. You could also remove the stantions and bow pulpit which will increase the drying effect and force you to re-seal the hardware in the spring. All in all a cheap insurance policy against expensive deck repairs. Joe Refkin s/v Skooky 3 Catalina 30
North of Kentucky we see a lot of snow and freezing rain. If you have even a slight leak due to a loose stantion or mast plate or any thing else that has been screwed or bolted through the deck, you are inviting moisture below the deck. When the cold winds blow, that moisture will freeze and expand. Do that a few times and you have a major route for moisture under the deck/hull and the next step is delamination or rotting of the marine plywood. Do yourself a favor and cover. Shrink wrap about $350 per season keeps out all the dirt(almost) and is vented to prevent the condensation. There will be a greenhouse effect which will help dry any moisture below the surface of the fiberglass. You could also remove the stantions and bow pulpit which will increase the drying effect and force you to re-seal the hardware in the spring. All in all a cheap insurance policy against expensive deck repairs. Joe Refkin s/v Skooky 3 Catalina 30
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Joe R.
PS
It's probably the low humidity of the winter air that does more drying than UV. UV probably wouldn't be much of a factor even in summer as it can't penetrate very deep (a few mils at best) and is easily reflected.
It's probably the low humidity of the winter air that does more drying than UV. UV probably wouldn't be much of a factor even in summer as it can't penetrate very deep (a few mils at best) and is easily reflected.
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Art Femenella
C-30 Cover Details
Marc, Your idea sounds great, would love to get more details or see photos. My e-mail is artfem2@earthlink.net. Do you allow for venting? Any condensation problems? Can you get aboard to work without removing complete cover? Any chafing of the hull by cover or ropes? Thanks, Art Femenella
Marc, Your idea sounds great, would love to get more details or see photos. My e-mail is artfem2@earthlink.net. Do you allow for venting? Any condensation problems? Can you get aboard to work without removing complete cover? Any chafing of the hull by cover or ropes? Thanks, Art Femenella
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MarcP
Catalina 30 Cover Details
Some of you have asked for more details on the PVC cover. This might help The vertical pieces that attach to the stanchions are about 3 inches taller than the actual stanchion and have a 45 degree elbow glued to the top. By the way this is the only piece that is glued. everything else is fit in snugly for easy disassembly. There is one of these vertical pieces attached to each stanchion with the elbow pointing toward the centerline of the boat. Last year I used duct tape to attach the pieces to the stanchion which was a mistake as it took forever to clean off the tape residue in the spring. This year I think I am going to use Ty Wraps, which will just be snipped off in the spring. From each elbow there is a ~ 3 foot piece of PVC that heads toward the center of the boat. Each piece one originating from port and the other from starboard meet at the centerline and are connected via a 4 way tee. The important part here is that these pieces are actually bowed or (flexed downward) to create an arch with the 4 way cross being at the center of each arch. The arch serves two purposes. First if the pieces were just straight they would meet too high at the centerline and would not be the correct angle to fit in the cross. Also flexing the pieces down in effect spring loads the structure port to starboard and keep everything fitting snugly without any glue. As you assemble the port and starboard pieces simply flex them down until they meet at the center. Cut them about an inch short to account for the 4 way cross and insert them into the cross. It sounds a little complicated but it is actually very simple once you start. If you are with me to this point you should have a series of arches between each set of stanchions. I did not but an arch on the bow stanchions. The next part is to connect all the arches together with pieces of PVC pipe running along the centerline of the boat between the arches. These pieces simply are inserted between the 4 way cross fittings, and create a backbone of sorts. I also take a piece of PVC from the cross on the most forward arch and ty wrap it to the centerline of the bow rail. This then provides a backbone all the way fore to aft. The structure is very light and very strong and will easily carry the weight of the tarp and a reasonable amount of water and snow. I don't recall where I got the blue poly tarp (possibly West Marine or US Boats). The tarp is draped over the frame secured at the bottom below the hull with any type of cord. I also fold over the tarp at the bow and the stern and tape it to get a good seal. The actual size of the tarp is not critical as long as it is large enough fore and aft and wide enough to drape over the sides. This worked great last year. When I opened the boat in the spring the deck was clean and best of all there was no water moisture or mildew in the interior. Hope this helps. Marc P
Some of you have asked for more details on the PVC cover. This might help The vertical pieces that attach to the stanchions are about 3 inches taller than the actual stanchion and have a 45 degree elbow glued to the top. By the way this is the only piece that is glued. everything else is fit in snugly for easy disassembly. There is one of these vertical pieces attached to each stanchion with the elbow pointing toward the centerline of the boat. Last year I used duct tape to attach the pieces to the stanchion which was a mistake as it took forever to clean off the tape residue in the spring. This year I think I am going to use Ty Wraps, which will just be snipped off in the spring. From each elbow there is a ~ 3 foot piece of PVC that heads toward the center of the boat. Each piece one originating from port and the other from starboard meet at the centerline and are connected via a 4 way tee. The important part here is that these pieces are actually bowed or (flexed downward) to create an arch with the 4 way cross being at the center of each arch. The arch serves two purposes. First if the pieces were just straight they would meet too high at the centerline and would not be the correct angle to fit in the cross. Also flexing the pieces down in effect spring loads the structure port to starboard and keep everything fitting snugly without any glue. As you assemble the port and starboard pieces simply flex them down until they meet at the center. Cut them about an inch short to account for the 4 way cross and insert them into the cross. It sounds a little complicated but it is actually very simple once you start. If you are with me to this point you should have a series of arches between each set of stanchions. I did not but an arch on the bow stanchions. The next part is to connect all the arches together with pieces of PVC pipe running along the centerline of the boat between the arches. These pieces simply are inserted between the 4 way cross fittings, and create a backbone of sorts. I also take a piece of PVC from the cross on the most forward arch and ty wrap it to the centerline of the bow rail. This then provides a backbone all the way fore to aft. The structure is very light and very strong and will easily carry the weight of the tarp and a reasonable amount of water and snow. I don't recall where I got the blue poly tarp (possibly West Marine or US Boats). The tarp is draped over the frame secured at the bottom below the hull with any type of cord. I also fold over the tarp at the bow and the stern and tape it to get a good seal. The actual size of the tarp is not critical as long as it is large enough fore and aft and wide enough to drape over the sides. This worked great last year. When I opened the boat in the spring the deck was clean and best of all there was no water moisture or mildew in the interior. Hope this helps. Marc P
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