Looking to make a PVC frame for my winter cover. Should I use 1" 1 1/2" or 2 " PVC here in Rhode Island. Any suggestions..
winter cover frame
- Thread starter chelsabella
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1" PVC
Ron, I had the same question a few years ago when I made mine. I found the 1" PVC was much more manageable and strong enough than anything larger. Once the shrinking is done, the snow and water just run right off. Remember, that once you shrink it, that adds strength to the structure, also. Also, I use heavy wire ties to secure the frame to the stanchions, mast and boom. Don't glue all the pieces together. Only the necessary area. Then just sand the parts that you do not glue so that they fit and remove a bit easier. Anything less than 1" was too flimsy. Be sure you label the parts for future use as you build the frame.
Ron, I had the same question a few years ago when I made mine. I found the 1" PVC was much more manageable and strong enough than anything larger. Once the shrinking is done, the snow and water just run right off. Remember, that once you shrink it, that adds strength to the structure, also. Also, I use heavy wire ties to secure the frame to the stanchions, mast and boom. Don't glue all the pieces together. Only the necessary area. Then just sand the parts that you do not glue so that they fit and remove a bit easier. Anything less than 1" was too flimsy. Be sure you label the parts for future use as you build the frame.
3/4" no problems
I have used 3/4" PVC for the last 4 seasons with no problems. I secure them to the stantions with hose clamps. From the amount of pressure the 3/4" pipe exerts on the stantions I wouldn't want anything bigger!
I have used 3/4" PVC for the last 4 seasons with no problems. I secure them to the stantions with hose clamps. From the amount of pressure the 3/4" pipe exerts on the stantions I wouldn't want anything bigger!
Bad experience
I used stiff PVC pipe to make a frame for my Oday 23 last season. It didn't last through a month before it broke. I cut the pipe to length and used 90 and 45 degree elbows to make the frame. The pipe fit right over the stanchions (lifelines removed); I used angle pieces to make peaked structures from the stanchion pieces. I braced the peaks with long pieces of PVC and wood running the length of the boat on either side. Despite numerous attempts to strengthen the structure during the season, by the end of the winter nearly ever joint had broken and the frame was useless. Never again. However, it looks like the pvc piping discussed here is flexible and is completely different from my design.
I used stiff PVC pipe to make a frame for my Oday 23 last season. It didn't last through a month before it broke. I cut the pipe to length and used 90 and 45 degree elbows to make the frame. The pipe fit right over the stanchions (lifelines removed); I used angle pieces to make peaked structures from the stanchion pieces. I braced the peaks with long pieces of PVC and wood running the length of the boat on either side. Despite numerous attempts to strengthen the structure during the season, by the end of the winter nearly ever joint had broken and the frame was useless. Never again. However, it looks like the pvc piping discussed here is flexible and is completely different from my design.
Ridgepole clamps
Richard- it looks from your photo that you have some sort of clamp fastening your ridge pole to the ribs. What kind of clamp is it ( or are you just really neat with your duct tape!)
Richard- it looks from your photo that you have some sort of clamp fastening your ridge pole to the ribs. What kind of clamp is it ( or are you just really neat with your duct tape!)
I used 2" ABS..
Last winter I lived on my 35' Day so I needed a good structure. After studying the ones made from PVC I decided ABS pipe was sturdier. I duct taped 1 1/2' foot pieces to the stanchions and then 45 degree connectors up to the centre piece where there were 4 way connectors that connected the pieces running down the length of the boat to the mast. I first tried to only use duct tape at the joints but gave up after a couple of collapses while assembling it and used ABS glue on all the joints. I covered it with shrink wrap that was anchored around the hull with sturdy clothes line, and also lines going under the hull from each stanchion. Then I shrinked it all using a heat gun. The structure lasted all winter through many howling gales. Many of the structures near me made from flimsier material were torn apart.
Last winter I lived on my 35' Day so I needed a good structure. After studying the ones made from PVC I decided ABS pipe was sturdier. I duct taped 1 1/2' foot pieces to the stanchions and then 45 degree connectors up to the centre piece where there were 4 way connectors that connected the pieces running down the length of the boat to the mast. I first tried to only use duct tape at the joints but gave up after a couple of collapses while assembling it and used ABS glue on all the joints. I covered it with shrink wrap that was anchored around the hull with sturdy clothes line, and also lines going under the hull from each stanchion. Then I shrinked it all using a heat gun. The structure lasted all winter through many howling gales. Many of the structures near me made from flimsier material were torn apart.
I Stand Corrected - 3/4" PVC
I just checked mine and the PVC is 3/4" and NOT 1" as I specified earlier. But I still stand with what I said about smaller diameter PVC. I have them at each stanchion with a 45 on top of each one pointing to the center ridge pole. The ridge pole has cross-pieces which align with the stachions to make the ribs. DO NOT glue the ribs. This makes it easier to assemble and take apart. Sometimes the rest takes a bit of enginuity to complete. 6 years and counting.
I just checked mine and the PVC is 3/4" and NOT 1" as I specified earlier. But I still stand with what I said about smaller diameter PVC. I have them at each stanchion with a 45 on top of each one pointing to the center ridge pole. The ridge pole has cross-pieces which align with the stachions to make the ribs. DO NOT glue the ribs. This makes it easier to assemble and take apart. Sometimes the rest takes a bit of enginuity to complete. 6 years and counting.
No clamps just tape
I just use tape to tie the ridge pole to the supports/ribs. hose clamps onlt on the stantions. Vertical supports are a must for the ridge pole: one at the foredeck, 2 on the cabin top and one at the wheel grap rail.
I just use tape to tie the ridge pole to the supports/ribs. hose clamps onlt on the stantions. Vertical supports are a must for the ridge pole: one at the foredeck, 2 on the cabin top and one at the wheel grap rail.
Florida Sun Shade
My boat was on stands over dirt and so could use 4' pieces of rebar driven a foot or so deep, parrallel to the centerline on either side of the boat for the basis of my 'hoop-top' affair... 21' pieces of irrigation pvc has the advantage of a coupling on one end which reduced the fittings needed... Slip the pvc end over the rebar and it'll help keep the spaggetti pipe somewhat vertical. Additional tie off to the toe rail and oversized 'tees' slipped onto the hoop-top enabled the installation of some fore-aft ribs that held up a plastic tarp for 18 months and many summer storms. Drywall screws through the tees prevented them from migrating down the hoop...would do the same thing over if it ever lands in the backyard again. Duct tape does NOT work in the Florida heat....it just never stops creeping in the wrong direction and ultimately lets loose.
My boat was on stands over dirt and so could use 4' pieces of rebar driven a foot or so deep, parrallel to the centerline on either side of the boat for the basis of my 'hoop-top' affair... 21' pieces of irrigation pvc has the advantage of a coupling on one end which reduced the fittings needed... Slip the pvc end over the rebar and it'll help keep the spaggetti pipe somewhat vertical. Additional tie off to the toe rail and oversized 'tees' slipped onto the hoop-top enabled the installation of some fore-aft ribs that held up a plastic tarp for 18 months and many summer storms. Drywall screws through the tees prevented them from migrating down the hoop...would do the same thing over if it ever lands in the backyard again. Duct tape does NOT work in the Florida heat....it just never stops creeping in the wrong direction and ultimately lets loose.
New England
I have a 29 foot Ericson I just purchased and will be building a cover for this year. My plan is to make a ridge pole out of 3 10 foot 3" PVC with 3" pipe stands. This would be put together with 3 way connectors. I then plan on drilling 1" holes in the ridge pole every 5 feet or so to put a single piece of flexible 1" home heating hose through. These will be secured to the stanchions. Then secure a 20x40 tarp over with line laced under the boat. I want something with a pretty sturdy ridge pole since we can get some good snow loads. Everything will be kept in sections and marked so it can be reused.
I have a 29 foot Ericson I just purchased and will be building a cover for this year. My plan is to make a ridge pole out of 3 10 foot 3" PVC with 3" pipe stands. This would be put together with 3 way connectors. I then plan on drilling 1" holes in the ridge pole every 5 feet or so to put a single piece of flexible 1" home heating hose through. These will be secured to the stanchions. Then secure a 20x40 tarp over with line laced under the boat. I want something with a pretty sturdy ridge pole since we can get some good snow loads. Everything will be kept in sections and marked so it can be reused.
Thanks All
Great ideas will see how it works. I plan on using a regular cover instead of shrink do you think I may have a problem with rigidity ??
Great ideas will see how it works. I plan on using a regular cover instead of shrink do you think I may have a problem with rigidity ??
1" PVC
I use 1" pvc and bend itbeteen the stantions but I used zip ties to hold it.It worked great and there was never anty snow on top.But the wind shook the stantions all winter and I felt that I had to rebead the stantions every year.When the other guys on the dock where rebeading every two or three years.This year Im going with a wood frame made like a truss roof and not tieing it above the deck I make the top 5' over the deck and rap a poly tarparound it. John
I use 1" pvc and bend itbeteen the stantions but I used zip ties to hold it.It worked great and there was never anty snow on top.But the wind shook the stantions all winter and I felt that I had to rebead the stantions every year.When the other guys on the dock where rebeading every two or three years.This year Im going with a wood frame made like a truss roof and not tieing it above the deck I make the top 5' over the deck and rap a poly tarparound it. John
oday 28 winter cover
HI, RON, Up here in maine a lot of boatyards unstep the masts and store them on a rack and they shrenk wrap them. My 85 oday 28 has removeable stanchions from the bast.and leave the life lines on the stanchions. I made wood frame of 2x4s from the bow to the stern high enough to give me a good pitch to the deck. I used they call straping witch is 1x2s I put them on both sides from bow to stern about four on each side it then makes a nice tent. Then I used my old blue tarp to cover it then I use my green tarp on top of that tie it down and thats it. Ihave been doing this for many years.To make it easy for next year I mark each piece like I start at the bow and mark suport piece like portside #1 PS #2 etc and starbside #1 stad #1 starb #2 etc so next season I know what piece goes were For me it works well. Its just a suggestion . Frederick Pierce Boothbay Maine
HI, RON, Up here in maine a lot of boatyards unstep the masts and store them on a rack and they shrenk wrap them. My 85 oday 28 has removeable stanchions from the bast.and leave the life lines on the stanchions. I made wood frame of 2x4s from the bow to the stern high enough to give me a good pitch to the deck. I used they call straping witch is 1x2s I put them on both sides from bow to stern about four on each side it then makes a nice tent. Then I used my old blue tarp to cover it then I use my green tarp on top of that tie it down and thats it. Ihave been doing this for many years.To make it easy for next year I mark each piece like I start at the bow and mark suport piece like portside #1 PS #2 etc and starbside #1 stad #1 starb #2 etc so next season I know what piece goes were For me it works well. Its just a suggestion . Frederick Pierce Boothbay Maine
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