Winter cover came through Sandy with flying colors. Go to Hunter owner mod's 30' older series for details.
Ian McGain
Meant to Be
1979 Hunter 30
Ian McGain
Meant to Be
1979 Hunter 30
winter cover came through storm-again
- Thread starter Ian McGain
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Great that Sandy was recoverable for you and your Cherubini 30. :dance:
However what caught my attention was the split aft stay attachment method by strapping to the transom. Moves the split stays a bit more aft than I have on my 1980 H36 which instead uses the toe rail about a foot forward of where your transom strapped aft stay is attached. Was this the Hunter original arrangement for the 30? Or a mod by you or a PO?
However what caught my attention was the split aft stay attachment method by strapping to the transom. Moves the split stays a bit more aft than I have on my 1980 H36 which instead uses the toe rail about a foot forward of where your transom strapped aft stay is attached. Was this the Hunter original arrangement for the 30? Or a mod by you or a PO?
Attachments
From looking at several H30's, I have seen both. The split backstays on the transom fastened to a chain plate (as is here on Ian's 79) and one next to me in the yard ( 80 I think ) where it is on the sides, near the rear cleat using something like a U bolt to fasten to.
The reason I have looking is that I am thinking of going from my single backstay to a split and want to know how to do it.
The reason I have looking is that I am thinking of going from my single backstay to a split and want to know how to do it.
split stay came with the boat when I purchased in 2000
I purchased the Meant to Be in the summer of 2000 and the split stay was on the boat. I believe I am the third or fourth owner. I believe the original owner had the boat set-up to race due to the Kenyon instruments which no longer work and are on my list to remove.
I purchased the Meant to Be in the summer of 2000 and the split stay was on the boat. I believe I am the third or fourth owner. I believe the original owner had the boat set-up to race due to the Kenyon instruments which no longer work and are on my list to remove.
Re: split stay came with the boat when I purchased in 2000
Thanks replies about the split backstay attach method. Always interesting to see the variations that happen on what would normally expected to be identical boats.
Thanks replies about the split backstay attach method. Always interesting to see the variations that happen on what would normally expected to be identical boats.
Split-backstay considerations.
Many of these boats have been sailed with the original rigs and many after modification to a split backstay. It's not the most vital improvement and many boats (especially those without headsail furlers) can be sailed competitively and well in their original single-backstay configurations.
For the interested, the C Sherman Johnson catalogue or web site (http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/00036.htm) will show how to lay out a split backstay. There are several considerations, both major and minor; but the secret to using the excellent 4-wheel CSJ adjuster car (the only one I would recommend) is to reconfigure the backstay with the legs 1.5 times as high as their width; that is, the base of the triangle at the transom is 2/3 the width of the rise to the fish plate. The adjusting tackle can be anything; but it should not be kept in tension 24/7 or used as the primary or sole means of holding up the mast. (I saw a J-29 rigged like this-- the cordage of the adjusting tackle was all that held up the spar and there was no actual backstay. This may be fine for a daysailed race-only boat; but it is patently inadequate for anything getting more use.) When relaxed the standing rigging should take over with nominal tension.
Remember that the backstay adjuster is meant to increase headstay tension-- but mind that the reason for inadequate headstay tension may just be because the furling gear adds so much weight to the wire that it can't be drawn tight enough (a very common condition). Rig the boat as it was meant to be, apply proper headstay tension, and then see if you really need to add more under sail.
It is vital that the new backstay's chainplates be mounted with adequate structuralstrength-- not just with a few screws and through the deck or into a coaming, for example. Don't guess at this part, which may be the most important part of this conversion.
My split backstay is mounted through the toerail at its last holes and backed up with an aluminum angle plate. The tackle is mounted into a hole on the toerail itself, slightly forward (by about 3"). This is adequate for a boat with 250 ft of sail.
Many of these boats have been sailed with the original rigs and many after modification to a split backstay. It's not the most vital improvement and many boats (especially those without headsail furlers) can be sailed competitively and well in their original single-backstay configurations.
For the interested, the C Sherman Johnson catalogue or web site (http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/00036.htm) will show how to lay out a split backstay. There are several considerations, both major and minor; but the secret to using the excellent 4-wheel CSJ adjuster car (the only one I would recommend) is to reconfigure the backstay with the legs 1.5 times as high as their width; that is, the base of the triangle at the transom is 2/3 the width of the rise to the fish plate. The adjusting tackle can be anything; but it should not be kept in tension 24/7 or used as the primary or sole means of holding up the mast. (I saw a J-29 rigged like this-- the cordage of the adjusting tackle was all that held up the spar and there was no actual backstay. This may be fine for a daysailed race-only boat; but it is patently inadequate for anything getting more use.) When relaxed the standing rigging should take over with nominal tension.
Remember that the backstay adjuster is meant to increase headstay tension-- but mind that the reason for inadequate headstay tension may just be because the furling gear adds so much weight to the wire that it can't be drawn tight enough (a very common condition). Rig the boat as it was meant to be, apply proper headstay tension, and then see if you really need to add more under sail.
It is vital that the new backstay's chainplates be mounted with adequate structuralstrength-- not just with a few screws and through the deck or into a coaming, for example. Don't guess at this part, which may be the most important part of this conversion.
My split backstay is mounted through the toerail at its last holes and backed up with an aluminum angle plate. The tackle is mounted into a hole on the toerail itself, slightly forward (by about 3"). This is adequate for a boat with 250 ft of sail.
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