Wing Keel repair

FastOlson · Oct 22, 2022

Unless the PO had a modification designed by an NA, I would wonder why and how this was done in the first place.
There was nothing wrong with the fin keel ballast on those boats.
Further, if a mod. was wanted just because the owner had money and inclination, he would have gone to Mars Metals and had a split bulb fabricated; those are excellent quality and solidly attached. I have seen their work.
The only time I have seen a split bulb done on an 80's boat was to reduce the draft. Cut off a foot or half foot of lead, and put the bulb on to restore the righting moment.

Draft Reductions | MarsKeel

As the front-runner in Keel production, we have developed a cost-effective, yet practical, alternative to complete Keel refits.

marskeel.com

dlochner · Oct 22, 2022

First that is a bulb keel. Second, that is a prior owner's really bad idea.

Cut the other bulb off, clean and fair with epoxy and enjoy a much nicer sailing boat.

My guess is the PO thought the boat heeled to much and adding more weight to the keel would make it more stable. Newports are production boats that were built to be price competitive. Competitors to Newports did not over build their boats, I doubt Newport did either. Adding several hundred pounds on a 5' lever arm will put stresses on the keel hull joint, the keel sump, and the keel bolts that the designer, Gary Mull, probably did not anticipate and the builder did not build for.

Mars Metals in Hamilton Ontario does alter keels, reducing draft by cutting the keel shorter and then adding bulbs. It works and they have engineers in house who will guide the process and make sure it is done safely. I looked into this once and the cost was about $10K US.

Tally Ho · Oct 22, 2022

Sailboatdata doesn’t show a wing (hard to see, but not evident anyway). Spec was 2,600# ballast.

NEWPORT 30-3 - sailboatdata

Differing from the earlier MkI & MkII models: The NEWPORT 30 MkIII is more cruising oriented. Wheel steering and diesel power was included as standard equipment. Shoal draft: 4.00’/1.22m Tall Rig: I: 43.00′ / 13.11m J: 12.50′ / 3.81m P: 37.00′ / 11.28m E: 10.30′ / 3.14m SA(Fore.): 268.75 ft2 /...

sailboatdata.com

I would clean up the other side, and go sailing.

Greg

dlochner · Oct 23, 2022

bil1215 said:
Thank you all for the responses, this is our first boat and 2nd season sailing her. I was under the impression that this was way the keel was designed originally, but now after reading your responses and doing some research it seems the PO added this to the existing keel. I am going to measure the keel next week to see how much if any of the original keel was cut off. If the keel was shortened how would I go about fixing it, to bring back to factory specs?
Again thank you all for the responses you have opened my eyes to this issue

The keel does not appear to have been shortened, or if it has by only a few inches.

Remember, when measuring the draft measure from the designed waterline to the bottom of the keel, not just the keel.

The draft should be around 5' 3".

Scott T-Bird · Oct 24, 2022

dlochner said:
The keel does not appear to have been shortened, or if it has by only a few inches.

Remember, when measuring the draft measure from the designed waterline to the bottom of the keel, not just the keel. The draft should be around 5' 3".

If that keel is supposed to have a draft of 5.25', I'd say that there is no way that draft is even close. Take a look at the photo that shows the bottom .... that keel can't be more than 2' long. Add the hull submersion of about 1.5" and I'd guess this draft is well short of 4'. To take advantage of the shallow areas in Raritan Bay, I'd not be surprised by a keel shortening project.

This does look like a botched job. I would recommend a modification as specified by Mars, as expensive as that may be. I do agree, measure the draft depth from the waterline. It should be easy to measure from a scum line at the waterline to a flat ground surface. Then, measure the space between the ground and the keel bottom and deduct. It will be more accurate than trying to eyeball the difference between the waterline and keel bottom.

Scott T-Bird · Oct 24, 2022

Keep in mind that a proper modification includes lengthening the foot of the keel for a bulb keel option. This does not look like it was done. I'd not be surprised if the boat is overly tender based on the modification, even if it was not damaged. A shoal draft keel is designed differently than a fin keel. It does not appear that the modification was a good one. I would even consider restoring the keel to the original size and depth, if possible.

Morgan donor · Oct 24, 2022

I've seen "bolt on bulb kits" in the past. Perhaps even from Mars Metal. I don't remember, it was long ago. I'd also suggest contacting Mars for guidance.
At the end of the day, you may spend more than the boat's worth on a new keel. So just cut the other half bulb off, buy a grinder a gallon of West epoxy and fairing powder. Hone your fiberglassing skills and go sailing. Be prepared to reef early.

dLj · Oct 25, 2022

I'm puzzled why you would cut the current side off.

I'd say the original idea the OP stated would be the way I'd go on this one. I might look at drilling all the way through the other bulb and run threaded rod through both the bulb to be fabricated and the remaining bulb - just trying to minimize the possibility that next year you have to fix that side. Mixing in lead into however you build the new bulb sounds like a good idea.

dj

Tally Ho · Oct 25, 2022

dLj said:
I'm puzzled why you would cut the current side off.

dj

She is going to sail “funny”… :huh:

Greg

dLj · Oct 25, 2022

Tally Ho said:
She is going to sail “funny”…

Greg

Maybe but I bet you wouldn't notice much of anything. Will be more tender.

I'd be more inclined to add back the missing side. Through bolting new and old would improve fixation for both.

dj

Tally Ho · Oct 25, 2022

dLj said:
Maybe but I bet you wouldn't notice much of anything. Will be more tender.

I'd be more inclined to add back the missing side. Through bolting new and old would improve fixation for both.

dj

Agreed. Doubt you would know it was missing.

Greg

dlochner · Oct 25, 2022

dLj said:
Maybe but I bet you wouldn't notice much of anything. Will be more tender.

I'd be more inclined to add back the missing side. Through bolting new and old would improve fixation for both.

dj

The bulb was clearly an after market addition. I'm not convinced that much if anything was cut off the bottom of the keel.

Putting the bulb back on with increase the displacement ratios, which is hardly a formula for improved performance. If Gary Mull wanted a bulb keel on the boat, he would have put one on it.

dLj · Oct 25, 2022

dlochner said:
The bulb was clearly an after market addition. I'm not convinced that much if anything was cut off the bottom of the keel.

Putting the bulb back on with increase the displacement ratios, which is hardly a formula for improved performance. If Gary Mull wanted a bulb keel on the boat, he would have put one on it.

That's the rub, has the keel been cut down? I don't know the answer. If it wasn't, I agree. If it was, I'd keep the balast.

For me, why would anyone have added on that weight? Just for fun? Doubt it. But hey, stranger this have been done to boats...

dj

PaulK · Oct 25, 2022

Looks like we need to wait for bil1215 to measure the keel and see if it was cut down or not. If not, the "repair" would be to remove the screwy bulb thing that remains (before it falls off on its own, the way the starboard side did) and re-fair the keel with expoxygoop. The boat will sail the way it was designed to. If the keel WAS cut down, then the screwy bulb thing that remains needs to be removed (before it falls off on its own, the way the other side did). Then a pair of matching SOLID LEAD bars can be properly through-bolted to the keel, to make up for its being shortened. If the lead can be shaped to make them more hydrodynamic it would be good. The cement(?) blob that is there has a huge surface area in relation to its weight (cement is NOT a good ballast - it is not that dense) and creates a lot of drag that the denser lead would reduce.

Wing Keel repair

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