My 1990 Hunter 30, fine boat that it is, has one failing, the port deck light or overhead window in the main cabin. Try as I might I can not get a seal to stay waterproof for more than a few weeks. I've tried three different brands of bedding compound, roughed up the plexiglas, cleaned all surfaces, set the screws loosely then hardened them up when the bedding compound sets. All works well for a few weeks and the rain finds it's way through, not much, but enough to let me know who's boss. Apart from replacing the plexiglas with armour plate glass and gluing it in place are there any suggestions to help a poor sailor keep the water on the side it is supposed to be on? Ray
- Status
Have you ever R/R the entire unit?.
Ray: Have you ever tried removing and replacing the entire unit? If you are speaking about the SkyLites, they needs to be completely removed and rebedded with a clean surface and new caulking. Contact Hunter for some of the 795 sealant and the instructions.
Ray: Have you ever tried removing and replacing the entire unit? If you are speaking about the SkyLites, they needs to be completely removed and rebedded with a clean surface and new caulking. Contact Hunter for some of the 795 sealant and the instructions.
Ray, I've read your post a couple of times and
your pain is coming through louder and louder. I've done the work your asking about and yes, the learning curve can be long without an expert to help. I'm no expert and I was hopping they would chime in, but no luck. I can suggest a couple things. First you don't mention what bedding compound you used. Plexiglas to fiberglass likes silicone. I was told to use GE magic UltraGlaze for my hatch lens replacement and side windows on my H34. I have an extra tube. It says SSG4000AC (accelerated cure) on the side. It's black silicone. Good stuff, but there are a couple tricks with silicones. First, you must remove ALL traces of the old silicone. It sticks to most structural material but it won't stick to itself. Second, the trick you used, leaving the screws loose until the glazing set is good but then, when you turn the screws, you've broken the seal. Instead of tightening the screws, remove them and goop with caulk, then tighten and let them cure. OK, that was every bit of knowledge on the subject that I have. Good luck and I hope someone else can add useful info. Oh, after the rebuild and commissioning of our H34 last year, she hasn't leaked a drop.
Daryl might not like to hear that.
your pain is coming through louder and louder. I've done the work your asking about and yes, the learning curve can be long without an expert to help. I'm no expert and I was hopping they would chime in, but no luck. I can suggest a couple things. First you don't mention what bedding compound you used. Plexiglas to fiberglass likes silicone. I was told to use GE magic UltraGlaze for my hatch lens replacement and side windows on my H34. I have an extra tube. It says SSG4000AC (accelerated cure) on the side. It's black silicone. Good stuff, but there are a couple tricks with silicones. First, you must remove ALL traces of the old silicone. It sticks to most structural material but it won't stick to itself. Second, the trick you used, leaving the screws loose until the glazing set is good but then, when you turn the screws, you've broken the seal. Instead of tightening the screws, remove them and goop with caulk, then tighten and let them cure. OK, that was every bit of knowledge on the subject that I have. Good luck and I hope someone else can add useful info. Oh, after the rebuild and commissioning of our H34 last year, she hasn't leaked a drop.
Daryl might not like to hear that.DC795 is the way I finally fixed mine
I tried sikaflex, silicone, etc. The 795 was finally the ticket.
I tried sikaflex, silicone, etc. The 795 was finally the ticket.
- Status