I am replacing the windows in my 1976 ODay 25. Does anyone know what the replacement material should be? I spoke with a glass company and they thought it might not be straight plexiglass and that plexiglass browns and fogs in salt conditions. Mine mainly is and will be in fresh water but I want the proper material. Appreciate some suggestions and advise -
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Acrylic
Hi Larry - Acrylic would probably be your best choice, depending on thickness. I used plexi on my companionway hatch slider because it's thick enough to make acrylic cost prohibitive. However, I'll bet your portlights are thin enough that acrylic would be more reasonable. That's what Lewmar typically uses in their overhear hatches and portlights. Best, Trevor
Hi Larry - Acrylic would probably be your best choice, depending on thickness. I used plexi on my companionway hatch slider because it's thick enough to make acrylic cost prohibitive. However, I'll bet your portlights are thin enough that acrylic would be more reasonable. That's what Lewmar typically uses in their overhear hatches and portlights. Best, Trevor
Plexiglas is acrylic
Plexiglas is a brand name for acrylic plastic. Specifically acrylic sheet is polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), Plexiglas is probably the best known brand of acrylic sheet in the US. The question is why are you replacing the lights (windows)? If they are leaking, they might just need rebedding. If they are scratched, there are several acrylic scratch/haze removal products on the market that are excellent. If they are cracked, damaged, or you want to change to clear or tinted lights, then you should consider that the entire light needs to be replaced. The lights are integrally constructed not only of the clear/tinted portion but also the exterior and interior coamings. D&R Marine (508-644-3001) (holder of the O'Day brand) has a local fabricator that constructs replacement O'Day lights. They are somewhat expensive, but provide for a watertight (if you properly bed them) OEM replacement. Use silicone (marine), not polysulphide when you rebed them.
Plexiglas is a brand name for acrylic plastic. Specifically acrylic sheet is polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), Plexiglas is probably the best known brand of acrylic sheet in the US. The question is why are you replacing the lights (windows)? If they are leaking, they might just need rebedding. If they are scratched, there are several acrylic scratch/haze removal products on the market that are excellent. If they are cracked, damaged, or you want to change to clear or tinted lights, then you should consider that the entire light needs to be replaced. The lights are integrally constructed not only of the clear/tinted portion but also the exterior and interior coamings. D&R Marine (508-644-3001) (holder of the O'Day brand) has a local fabricator that constructs replacement O'Day lights. They are somewhat expensive, but provide for a watertight (if you properly bed them) OEM replacement. Use silicone (marine), not polysulphide when you rebed them.
Thanks, Tim
Tim - Thanks for clarifying that Plexi is actually Acrylic. I learn something every day! Good post with good info. My hatches are crazed, so I'm in the midst of replacing for cosmetic purposes only. Best, Trevor
Tim - Thanks for clarifying that Plexi is actually Acrylic. I learn something every day! Good post with good info. My hatches are crazed, so I'm in the midst of replacing for cosmetic purposes only. Best, Trevor
O'Day Portlights
Tim, I am replacing the forward portlights in my O'Day 23 - the glass is all crazed and I do have some leaking. I ordered replacements from Rudy, which is a good thing becaused the portlights were a bit difficult to remove and I did, in fact, break some of the exterior trim! There was a substantial amount of sealant used in the previous installation. Are you familiar with the installation process? Do the new portlights literally "pop" in with a new bed of sealant? Do I need to be concerned with the sealant leaking down into the void between exterior/interior fiberglass resulting in an incomplete bond? Any thoughts would be greatly apprecited. Thanks. -SRF
Tim, I am replacing the forward portlights in my O'Day 23 - the glass is all crazed and I do have some leaking. I ordered replacements from Rudy, which is a good thing becaused the portlights were a bit difficult to remove and I did, in fact, break some of the exterior trim! There was a substantial amount of sealant used in the previous installation. Are you familiar with the installation process? Do the new portlights literally "pop" in with a new bed of sealant? Do I need to be concerned with the sealant leaking down into the void between exterior/interior fiberglass resulting in an incomplete bond? Any thoughts would be greatly apprecited. Thanks. -SRF
Bedding the lights
Yes, the new ones whould just "pop" into the existing opening. If not call Rudy. Clean all of the existing sealant from the hull. I would then put the new one in the opening to check the fit and to mask the area outside of the coaming. I would suggest the use of the blue painter's masking tape. This will let you be a little messy without a major cleanup or black streaks under silicone that's not under the coaming. (The voice of experience here). Put on some latex or nitrile gloves. Get some clean rags ready. Apply the sealant using a caulk gun. The last time I did this, the inside of the coaming had several sets of ribs to help retain the bedding. I would put two or three beads around the coaming, but it probably doesn't matter if want to put the beads on the hull. I just think I can do a neater job with the sealant on the coaming. Put the light in the hole and press to ensure the sealant smooshes (technical term) around the entire perimeter with hull contact. (You will now begin to see the beauty of the masking tape.) If the light's fit was snug your good. If it wasn't a helper to hold the light in position with the tape as a reference will be invaluable. Head into the cabin and attach the inside trim ring. Make sure you tighten slowly and evenly around the periphery. Keep going around until the coaming is flush with the hull around the periphery. Now go bed the other light. In about one to two hours the silicone will have skinned over and will not ooze any more. It should be a little rubbery but not oozy (another technical term.) Now is the time to remove the masking from around the light. If you wait too long, using a razor sharp blade, gently score the silicone without cuting the hull or tape; then strip the tape. The silicone will cure in 24 hours and you lights should be watertight. Enjoy... Tim
Yes, the new ones whould just "pop" into the existing opening. If not call Rudy. Clean all of the existing sealant from the hull. I would then put the new one in the opening to check the fit and to mask the area outside of the coaming. I would suggest the use of the blue painter's masking tape. This will let you be a little messy without a major cleanup or black streaks under silicone that's not under the coaming. (The voice of experience here). Put on some latex or nitrile gloves. Get some clean rags ready. Apply the sealant using a caulk gun. The last time I did this, the inside of the coaming had several sets of ribs to help retain the bedding. I would put two or three beads around the coaming, but it probably doesn't matter if want to put the beads on the hull. I just think I can do a neater job with the sealant on the coaming. Put the light in the hole and press to ensure the sealant smooshes (technical term) around the entire perimeter with hull contact. (You will now begin to see the beauty of the masking tape.) If the light's fit was snug your good. If it wasn't a helper to hold the light in position with the tape as a reference will be invaluable. Head into the cabin and attach the inside trim ring. Make sure you tighten slowly and evenly around the periphery. Keep going around until the coaming is flush with the hull around the periphery. Now go bed the other light. In about one to two hours the silicone will have skinned over and will not ooze any more. It should be a little rubbery but not oozy (another technical term.) Now is the time to remove the masking from around the light. If you wait too long, using a razor sharp blade, gently score the silicone without cuting the hull or tape; then strip the tape. The silicone will cure in 24 hours and you lights should be watertight. Enjoy... Tim
acrylic cleaner
My lights have a strange haze on them and parts are clear. I used some aluninum and mag wheel cleaner (saw this recomended on speedvision) on my compass and it cleared up well, but did not do anything to my lights. What treatment works well for the lights?
My lights have a strange haze on them and parts are clear. I used some aluninum and mag wheel cleaner (saw this recomended on speedvision) on my compass and it cleared up well, but did not do anything to my lights. What treatment works well for the lights?
Bedding the lights
Yes, the new ones whould just "pop" into the existing opening. If not call Rudy. Clean all of the existing sealant from the hull. I would then put the new one in the opening to check the fit and to mask the area outside of the coaming. I would suggest the use of the blue painter's masking tape. This will let you be a little messy without a major cleanup or black streaks under silicone that's not under the coaming. (The voice of experience here). Put on some latex or nitrile gloves. Get some clean rags ready. Apply the sealant using a caulk gun. The last time I did this, the inside of the coaming had several sets of ribs to help retain the bedding. I would put two or three beads around the coaming, but it probably doesn't matter if want to put the beads on the hull. I just think I can do a neater job with the sealant on the coaming. Put the light in the hole and press to ensure the sealant smooshes (technical term) around the entire perimeter with hull contact. (You will now begin to see the beauty of the masking tape.) If the light's fit was snug your good. If it wasn't a helper to hold the light in position with the tape as a reference will be invaluable. Head into the cabin and attach the inside trim ring. Make sure you tighten slowly and evenly around the periphery. Keep going around until the coaming is flush with the hull around the periphery. Now go bed the other light. In about one to two hours the silicone will have skinned over and will not ooze any more. It should be a little rubbery but not oozy (another technical term.) Now is the time to remove the masking from around the light. If you wait too long, using a razor sharp blade, gently score the silicone without cuting the hull or tape; then strip the tape. The silicone will cure in 24 hours and you lights should be watertight. Enjoy... Tim
Yes, the new ones whould just "pop" into the existing opening. If not call Rudy. Clean all of the existing sealant from the hull. I would then put the new one in the opening to check the fit and to mask the area outside of the coaming. I would suggest the use of the blue painter's masking tape. This will let you be a little messy without a major cleanup or black streaks under silicone that's not under the coaming. (The voice of experience here). Put on some latex or nitrile gloves. Get some clean rags ready. Apply the sealant using a caulk gun. The last time I did this, the inside of the coaming had several sets of ribs to help retain the bedding. I would put two or three beads around the coaming, but it probably doesn't matter if want to put the beads on the hull. I just think I can do a neater job with the sealant on the coaming. Put the light in the hole and press to ensure the sealant smooshes (technical term) around the entire perimeter with hull contact. (You will now begin to see the beauty of the masking tape.) If the light's fit was snug your good. If it wasn't a helper to hold the light in position with the tape as a reference will be invaluable. Head into the cabin and attach the inside trim ring. Make sure you tighten slowly and evenly around the periphery. Keep going around until the coaming is flush with the hull around the periphery. Now go bed the other light. In about one to two hours the silicone will have skinned over and will not ooze any more. It should be a little rubbery but not oozy (another technical term.) Now is the time to remove the masking from around the light. If you wait too long, using a razor sharp blade, gently score the silicone without cuting the hull or tape; then strip the tape. The silicone will cure in 24 hours and you lights should be watertight. Enjoy... Tim
Reply to Acrylic Cleaner
To clean unscratched acrylic, after washing with water and mild soap, I use a straight carnuba wax product. The solvent carrier dissolves bird droppings and such while the wax fill in any microscopic srcatches. If scratches or hazing is present I use stuff from Micro-Surface Products (www.micro-surface.com). While I have never had to use their stuff on the boat, I have used to polish numerous other clear and tinted surfaces, from meter faces to the windshield of our plane with great success and never a failure!!! The have graded rubbing and polishing compounds for arcrylic and polycarbonate surfaces, and sell repair kits in end user (consumer) friendly sizes. Tim
To clean unscratched acrylic, after washing with water and mild soap, I use a straight carnuba wax product. The solvent carrier dissolves bird droppings and such while the wax fill in any microscopic srcatches. If scratches or hazing is present I use stuff from Micro-Surface Products (www.micro-surface.com). While I have never had to use their stuff on the boat, I have used to polish numerous other clear and tinted surfaces, from meter faces to the windshield of our plane with great success and never a failure!!! The have graded rubbing and polishing compounds for arcrylic and polycarbonate surfaces, and sell repair kits in end user (consumer) friendly sizes. Tim
Bedding - Thanks
Tim, Thanks - you make it sound easy! I look forward to completing the project this weekend. -SRF
Tim, Thanks - you make it sound easy! I look forward to completing the project this weekend. -SRF
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