I'm looking for some advice on installation for new cabin windows. I think I know what I'm doing but wanted a pulse check to avoid any messy and timely rework.
Complete:
I've removed my old cabin windows (frameless). Cleaned up the old windows to use as templates for the new acrylic. Cleaned up the window recesses on the boat and filled and faired any low spots that were damaged during removal (glass stuck to the window with the adhesive prev. used).
Plan:
1. My old windows had almost zero gap around the perimeter of the window and the frameless recess which caused the leaking issues and my reason for changing the windows. I'm going to shave the new glass to provide a 1/8" gap all around (my recess that overlaps the acrylic is only 3/8" to 1/2" so I don't have much to play with to increase it any more than 1/8").
2.) Paint Glass - Per the attached pic, the old glass didn't have black paint hiding the window recess but did have an offset stripe to hid the edge of the interior window frame.
Question -> I had old bronze polycarbonate windows, 1/4". New windows are 1/4" dark smoke acrylic #2074. Will this be dark enough to hide the interior frame? Will the glass combined with the black VHB tape be sufficient to avoid painting the acrylic at all?
Question -> What is the best paint to use to get a good bond with the tape?
3.) VHB tape - #5952, Black. Planning to double up the tape to give the tape a bit more grace to accommodate any surface defects, etc.
4.) 3M Primer #94 - Indicates its yellow. Will this be visible under the glass when applied and dried? Do I even need the primer? Note... my window recess's are fiberglass with smoothed out resin. It is not gelcoated. Should I put on a think coat of gelcoat? I was thinking no as it's one more component that could fail when the tape is applied (i.e. gelcoat separates from the fiberglass and not separate from the tape)
5.) Not planning to use screws to hold the glass due to the narrow recess and drilling holes and risking a blow out. Reading other forums, my cabin curve is very small in this and area and I'm hoping the glass will stick instantly to the tape. Worst case I'll use some wood to brace off the lifelines.
6.) Install 795 around the perimeter. 1/8" gap all around. Is there any benefit to beveling the glass 45 or 60 degree to give the caulk a bit more depth?
Appreciate any input.
Complete:
I've removed my old cabin windows (frameless). Cleaned up the old windows to use as templates for the new acrylic. Cleaned up the window recesses on the boat and filled and faired any low spots that were damaged during removal (glass stuck to the window with the adhesive prev. used).
Plan:
1. My old windows had almost zero gap around the perimeter of the window and the frameless recess which caused the leaking issues and my reason for changing the windows. I'm going to shave the new glass to provide a 1/8" gap all around (my recess that overlaps the acrylic is only 3/8" to 1/2" so I don't have much to play with to increase it any more than 1/8").
2.) Paint Glass - Per the attached pic, the old glass didn't have black paint hiding the window recess but did have an offset stripe to hid the edge of the interior window frame.
Question -> I had old bronze polycarbonate windows, 1/4". New windows are 1/4" dark smoke acrylic #2074. Will this be dark enough to hide the interior frame? Will the glass combined with the black VHB tape be sufficient to avoid painting the acrylic at all?
Question -> What is the best paint to use to get a good bond with the tape?
3.) VHB tape - #5952, Black. Planning to double up the tape to give the tape a bit more grace to accommodate any surface defects, etc.
4.) 3M Primer #94 - Indicates its yellow. Will this be visible under the glass when applied and dried? Do I even need the primer? Note... my window recess's are fiberglass with smoothed out resin. It is not gelcoated. Should I put on a think coat of gelcoat? I was thinking no as it's one more component that could fail when the tape is applied (i.e. gelcoat separates from the fiberglass and not separate from the tape)
5.) Not planning to use screws to hold the glass due to the narrow recess and drilling holes and risking a blow out. Reading other forums, my cabin curve is very small in this and area and I'm hoping the glass will stick instantly to the tape. Worst case I'll use some wood to brace off the lifelines.
6.) Install 795 around the perimeter. 1/8" gap all around. Is there any benefit to beveling the glass 45 or 60 degree to give the caulk a bit more depth?
Appreciate any input.
