Window replacement and modification

[simmonct]

Hello, my 1979 C&C 34 is in need of a window replacement (see pic) and I am considering making some modifications while Im at it. Here are my initial thoughts, I'd appreciate any feedback or insight on this vague plan.

I really like the look of the C&C 34+ windows (see pic), they extend a forward and have a very pleasing style about them. I want to incorporate the same style into my window upgrade, but dont want to change the current structure of the window openings. I was thinking about somehow replacing the factory windows with a standard clear acrylic material (keeping it as low profile as possible) and then overlaying the windows with a darker tinted acrylic that resembles the extended profile and shape of the C&C 34+ windows. This top layer would overlay some of the fiberglass deck and I was considering painting the underside of these areas with a dark paint to prevent seeing white deck.

This is an early thought and I havnt decided on all the materials to be used. My OCD typically forces me to do tons of research before committing to materials on projects like this.

Thanks for your considerations,

-Chris

 

[Cool Beans]

Easiest thing I could think would be to cut smoked acrylic to the size and shape you want and seal and fasten it to the outside. Kind of like you were already thinking.

Or, leave your current ports and paint the frames black, and paint the cabin sides black to resemble the shape of the ports you want. You could even get some automotive window tint kits and tint your ports. That would be cheapest and easiest I would imagine. . .and reversible if you changed your mind :dance:

 

[Steve Dion]

1. Just replace the current plastic with a high quality acrylic.
2. Try this company (http://www.bomon.com/)
3. Mark Plastics in Corona, Ca. (http://www.sailmagazine.com/sail-buyers-guide/mark_plastics_go_marine_windows/)

 

[Tim R.]

+1 for Bomon. They do excellent work.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Even An OCD Sufferer Should be Able to ...............

.................. gain complete satisfaction with this project.

What you describe is exactly what Hunter does with with their window arrangement. Long and sleek looking windows on the outside but rather boxy and broken up on the inside which actually fits the interior cabin shape better. It's also necessary for structural support of the cabin roof.

Fig. 1 shows the exterior of the forward window which is a medium bronze in colour and actually covers two windows. During the daytime, the acrylic looks black from the outside and it's impossible to see the solid divide between the two windows or the fact that the windows are smaller than the acrylic..

Fig. 2 shows the interior of the cabin. Note the bulging outline where the acrylic is sunk into the exterior wall of the cabin. Unfortunately this photo only shows one of the two forward windows which are both covered by the one sheet of acrylic as seen on the outside.

If you are into woodworking to any degree, acrylic is beautiful to work with using table saws, routers, sanders, etc. That way you can cut the acrylic to the exact dimensions you want without trying to make a template first and then have the shop finish it for you. I have been replacing one hatch lens at a time for the last few years and it makes for pleasant winter project.

 

[simmonct]

Thanks everyone for the replies and great information. I feel better about the project and will try to keep you posted in this thread.

Thanks again!!!

-Chris

 

[dje]

Window Replacement

I used to work in the parts department of a Cessna Service Center and ordered replacement aircraft window sets from Great Lakes Aero (http://www.glapinc.com/). They will cut replacement Plexiglas from your originals that you send them for a perfect fit. They have a number of tints available and their pricing is very reasonable. They also offer a quick turn around time and are very accommodating; good folks to work with. In general in such matters as you're contemplating, I suggest you stay with the KISS policy. You'll be ahead in the long run insofar as replacing your windows and staying with the original lines/look that you want to keep. I used them to replace my C22 windows last year and am very satisfied with the results.

Good luck!

 

[alexco38]

Don't use screws. The heat and cold will crack the plexiglass. Use automotive windshield glue instead.

 

[dscribner]

Don't use acrylic, use polycarbonate and make sure it's UV protected. Mount with 3M VHB tape and seal to the hull with a quality structural silicone (Dow Corning 995). This is the same method keeping glass in skyscrapers (and skylights). Use masking tape to mask the area around the edges and shape the bead and be sure to tool the sealant. No caulking out there is properly applied if it isn't tooled, regardless of how much testosterone there is in the claim. Untooled silicone is not watertight. A wet finger works OK but I usually use a silicone bead spray and a plastic spoon. The spray is available at Home Depot for a few bucks. The spoons . . . . McDonalds. The spray virtually liquefies the sealant for a few seconds and make a nice bead. Remove the tape a minute after the bead is finished.

 

[mitiempo]

Why not use acrylic? Much longer lasting than polycarbonate and the choice of virtually every hatch manufacturer (Lewmar and Goiot for example) Doesn't need any special UV protection like polycarbonate does and isn't subject to crazing.

The correct structural adhesive is Dow Corning 795, which sticks to plastics. 995 doesn't list plastics for adhesion.

 

[bria46]

All good comments. If you are on the north side of Chi town get in touch with Petersen Brothers on 2600(?) north Pulaski Road. They will cut to your pattern. They will polish the edges, and drill holes (they should be 30% bigger than the dia. of the screw) for screw mounting. Dow Corning 795 is available thru SS Panel supply in Bensonville. Let the 795 dry for 24 hours, use an Exacto Knife to clean off the excess 795 then use paint thinner to surface clean-up the fiberglass around the windows. Use FLAT Black Laquer spray Paint to all inner surfaces of your Acrylic windows, masking off the viewing area. Use Acrylic (20 year life) Lexan 5-6 years life) The Acrylic should be 1/4" thick. Petersen Brothers has cut, trimmed, drill holes, and provided excellent service doing 8 windows for my O'Day 272. And... they have a great showroom. I'm about to order a 1/2" thick dark Bronze Acrylic Companion Way Hatch for my 272. Tell Jenny hi for me.

 

[dscribner]

Polycarbonate is more impact resistant than acrylic and is less of a commodity plastic. Dow 995 is a structural silicone. We, as professional glaziers, don't use 795 because it has trouble adhering to anything, especially painted surfaces. We only use it when flush glazing to glass or when architects spec it. We use urethane sealants, which are excellent adhesives, for all other joints except when plastic is invovlved because it causes plasticizer migration which will destroy the glazing. Did I mention that my company holds (long out of date) the patent for cast acrylic?