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window gaskets...?

Apr 23, 2016
Newport 28 Olympia, WA
long time lurker, first time poster. I'm in the process of trying to determine the source of my cabin window leak and think that the gaskets are a likely cause. They've shrunk and are fairly brittle. Anyone have any idea where I could find replacements for the interior and exterior for the original windows for a 81 Newport 28? thanks in advance!
May 27, 2004
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
Yes. Call the SBO store and give them as much info on the "windows" as you can. They will know where to get it (probably from them).
And welcome to the site Mowest! :biggrin:
Apr 23, 2016
Newport 28 Olympia, WA
Perfect! thanks, Ggrizzard. Got my ticket in and fingers crossed they can help me out.
Sep 11, 2017
Beneteau 373 Cape Cod
welcome mowest... good luck!
P.S. Depending on who you end up discussing this with, you might be taken a bit more seriously if you refer to your "windows" as portholes or hatches (depending on which you're referring to). I'm not trying to nit-pick your semantics, but there will be SOME occasions where using the most-precise-nautical-lingo possible will net you better results. In this case of course, I'm sure we all knew what you meant by "windows".
Nov 6, 2006
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Welcome, mowest! Some thoughts: Are ya talking the big side windows (fixed ports) or the small opening ports? Most boats used standard items except for the fixed ports, so parts for the opening ports would be more easily found. The big fixed ports, if leaking, need to be removed and re-bedded in a good adhesive/sealant like Dow 795.. There are some great video ands articles on Maine Sail's DIY website and on YouTube ..
Post pictures if ya can so folks can see what ya need.
Again, Welcome!
Apr 23, 2016
Newport 28 Olympia, WA
Thanks, ToddS and kloudie1 for the welcome and clarification...you are correct and I'm dealing with the fixed ports, unfortunately. The SBO store did get back to me and suggested that I try CatalinaDirect as they have a similar style. As much as I'd like to just swap out the gaskets, I'm pretty sure that Kloudie is right. Re-bedding is the way to go for lots of reasons, but holy mother of everything sacred. This is gonna be a tough job. these puppies do not want to budge. After a few hours, I did manage to wrestle the interior molding off one frame. No idea why one would use that much/any for the interior molding considering it was fastened with a dozen screws. I can't tell what adhesive was used by PO, but it was used liberally. I'm worried that the frames/molding aren't going to survive. I'm going to try a dremmel scraper to break the sealant and be a gentle as I can, but am preparing myself for a complete window :) port replacement.
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Oct 22, 2014
CAL 35 Cruiser Portland OR, moored EVERETT WA
Welcome @mowest to the forum.
A picture of what you are facing on your Newport would be helpful.
I have windows-portals that have an external gasket. After the boat show in Seattle I found a company in BC that makes the item.
My portal

The Canadian gasket

Good luck
Jul 27, 2011
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
Actually, those things on the sides are generally called portlights. Hatches are on top. I’ve re-bedded the fixed type (do not open) as well as replaced an entire opening portlight on me Pearson 30 of prior ownership. It’s not that bad once you get them out, as you have commented. But a gasket seals the contact between the glass & frame if an opening one. With re-bedding, you’re resealing the frame (+ glass) to the cabin or hull. If the former is leaking, re-bedding the frame won’t fix it. Installing a complete new portlight unit would, however. Or, replacing the actual gasket, which I’ve done on me Bavaria of present ownership. You might need to do some recutting of the hole to replace the whole unit. Proceed w/caution not to make a bigger job than required:yikes:. Welcome to the forum!
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Sep 22, 2017
Capital Yachts Newport 28 Burbank, WA
I have the same issue with our 1982 N28. The portlights leak around the glass. Yes, our portlights are tempered glass in an aluminum frame. I have contacted select plastics, and his recommendation was to remove the entire portlight from the boat. cut out as much of the external portion of the rubber seal, and inject a bead of DOW 795, and carefully tool to shape. It does not look like it is going to be any fun doing that job. Fortunately, the inner ring on ours comes off easily after the screws are removed. I'm sure the frame to cabin wall seal will be a whole lot more difficult to get separated. Its getting to be winter time, so that job will have to wait until next spring/summer. I will do again what I did last winter to keep the water out. I tape a piece of plastic sheeting over the entire port assemblies on both sides. I use the clear Gorilla tape to attach it to the fiberglass above and down both sides of the ports. I leave the bottom of the plastic open so it can breath any moisture that may get into it. Not the prettiest look, but it does keep the weather out. After the spring rains, peel the tape/plastic off, and clean of the tape residue with acetone or mineral spirits.

Your replacement ports look great. are yours the aluminum frame with tempered glass? Sis you replace them yourself, or did you have a shop do it?

The attached pictures show the ports that are in our 1982 N28. I would really like to find the proper glass to frame seal for ours.


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Oct 22, 2014
CAL 35 Cruiser Portland OR, moored EVERETT WA
Thanks for the Compliment Mitch. Do not want to leave the wrong impression.
My ports are Glass. They are layered not tempered. This lets them break but not shatter into a thousand pieces. The image with the "ARJ" label was posted to show a name of the manufacture source for the window trim seal. The product fits into the aluminum frame covering the glass edge. I had a challenge searching for the product. Came across it by accident at the boat show, where I took the picture.

I have fitted the trim into two of my windows. I am still working on this project. I will be removing my windows and replacing the glazing and the broken glass where it has occurred. Once reset I'll be installing the rubber (vinyl) trim and hope to get the smooth look shown in the image. Getting the rubber trim to make the acute turns (less than 90 degrees) on some of the windows is a bit of a challenge.

I'll post some images as I complete the task.