Just bought a QUICK GENIUS 600 WINDLASS on Ebay, I have a CAL34...will this type od windlass do or did I make a mistake? does anybody out there have the same setup?? Thanks Chuck
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Close to upper end spec
Hi Chuck Although the specifications for the windlass are pretty much at the upper limit for your vessel, I can't really see any reason why the unit shouldn't work. Steve, Patti and Grace (Ship's Cat) sv "Ever After" Tatamagouche NS
Hi Chuck Although the specifications for the windlass are pretty much at the upper limit for your vessel, I can't really see any reason why the unit shouldn't work. Steve, Patti and Grace (Ship's Cat) sv "Ever After" Tatamagouche NS
The idea for the windlass
is to raise the chain or rode up, not to pull the boat to the anchor. If the windlass works (electrically) and fits your chain, then if you move the boat to a point above the anchor, and then use the windlass, it should work. Otherwise, SOL.
is to raise the chain or rode up, not to pull the boat to the anchor. If the windlass works (electrically) and fits your chain, then if you move the boat to a point above the anchor, and then use the windlass, it should work. Otherwise, SOL.
Stu, I shouldn't think that a windlass would
be stressed to move the boat to a point above the anchor. I normally retrieve my anchor by hand and back. Hauling the rode in with ten knots of wind is not a big deal but when the rode is vertical and the boat is directly above the hook i often break the anchor out with the engine and then haul it in. I feel that breaking a well buried anchor out is the greatest strain that you encounter during anchor retrieval.
be stressed to move the boat to a point above the anchor. I normally retrieve my anchor by hand and back. Hauling the rode in with ten knots of wind is not a big deal but when the rode is vertical and the boat is directly above the hook i often break the anchor out with the engine and then haul it in. I feel that breaking a well buried anchor out is the greatest strain that you encounter during anchor retrieval.
I agree, should have put NOT in caps
hand pulling or moving the boat with the engine above the anchor, while using the windlass to pull anything up that is NOT under load is the appropriate method.
hand pulling or moving the boat with the engine above the anchor, while using the windlass to pull anything up that is NOT under load is the appropriate method.
scope
A shot of chain at the anchor is used for two reasons: resistance to chafe on the bottom and to lower the angle of pull to the anchor. Any chain of reasonable size accomplishes the first. However, you need to use plenty of scope because 1/4 inch chain does not have enough weight to lower the angle of pull against a 34 footer. Although, in more moderate conditions, i.e. above 20 knots, I would start to think about that weak link. Heavier chain would be better, having more safety factor.
A shot of chain at the anchor is used for two reasons: resistance to chafe on the bottom and to lower the angle of pull to the anchor. Any chain of reasonable size accomplishes the first. However, you need to use plenty of scope because 1/4 inch chain does not have enough weight to lower the angle of pull against a 34 footer. Although, in more moderate conditions, i.e. above 20 knots, I would start to think about that weak link. Heavier chain would be better, having more safety factor.
Chuck, I wouldn't feel that it was adequate
on my 9500 pound 30 foot Islander. You want the anchor to hold in the worst conditions. I use 1/4 inch chain and 1/2 inch nylon on my 15 pound Northill stern anchor just to control swing. My bow anchor is 35 pound CQR 30 feet of 3/8 chain and 300 feet of 5/8 nylon. I sleep well at night.
on my 9500 pound 30 foot Islander. You want the anchor to hold in the worst conditions. I use 1/4 inch chain and 1/2 inch nylon on my 15 pound Northill stern anchor just to control swing. My bow anchor is 35 pound CQR 30 feet of 3/8 chain and 300 feet of 5/8 nylon. I sleep well at night.
Let the boat do the work
Under nomimnal conditions, hoist the rode tight then sit back, relax and let the action of the seas on the boat work your anchor free. As far as whats good enough, for day sailing anything will do a small "lunch hook" with minimal chain and scope will be just fine. To prepare for extended cruising and storms you should have graduated approach with diffrent tackle for diffrent situations. Every year I budget for new ground tackle, so it adds up over time, and I can plan for diffrent situations. I live in Biloxi and for Katrina, I had 6 anchors and tied to 3 trees. The anchors ranged from a 60# CQR to a 30# Danforth. Each anchor had 50-200 ft of 1/2 to 3/4 chain and 300 to 600 ft of 3/8 to 3/4 line. As I bought my ground tackle over the years the guys at the marine store scoffed at me telling me 100 ft shrimp boats didn't use what I was merely buying at that time. The result was... in a hole 15 miles North of the coast there was a 35 foot surge and 200mph winds of 18 boats in sight of mine 3 of us were floating. By the way thousands of pounds of ground tackle may seem impractical for a 28 foot boat, but if you buy it in stages and collect it each year some day it will save your butt. Just leave what you don't need in storage so you can have it when you need it.
Under nomimnal conditions, hoist the rode tight then sit back, relax and let the action of the seas on the boat work your anchor free. As far as whats good enough, for day sailing anything will do a small "lunch hook" with minimal chain and scope will be just fine. To prepare for extended cruising and storms you should have graduated approach with diffrent tackle for diffrent situations. Every year I budget for new ground tackle, so it adds up over time, and I can plan for diffrent situations. I live in Biloxi and for Katrina, I had 6 anchors and tied to 3 trees. The anchors ranged from a 60# CQR to a 30# Danforth. Each anchor had 50-200 ft of 1/2 to 3/4 chain and 300 to 600 ft of 3/8 to 3/4 line. As I bought my ground tackle over the years the guys at the marine store scoffed at me telling me 100 ft shrimp boats didn't use what I was merely buying at that time. The result was... in a hole 15 miles North of the coast there was a 35 foot surge and 200mph winds of 18 boats in sight of mine 3 of us were floating. By the way thousands of pounds of ground tackle may seem impractical for a 28 foot boat, but if you buy it in stages and collect it each year some day it will save your butt. Just leave what you don't need in storage so you can have it when you need it.
Fellow Quick Windlass Owner
Chuck, I purchased a 38 1/2 foot Dufour last summer and it came equipped with an Aires 1000 vertical windlass. I had no personal experience or knowledge of Quick at the time. I've since learned Quick is a well-regarded European manufacturer, somehow connected to Plastimo. I've had excellent experience with the unit and the technical support has also been great (I trashed a plastic part while getting to know the windlass my first day on the boat and Quick's Maryland-based rep sent me a replacement kit -free of charge- in the space of a few days). Practical Sailor did a review of mid-range windlasses over the past few years and highly rated the Quick in the test. My recollection is that the Quick on test was not the fastest of the entrants, but it had a lot of pulling power. My primary anchor is a 35 pound Delta and I've had no problems. I can't give you any feedback on the sizing of the windlass for your boat, but I'm sure Quick's website will tell you if they think the Genius 600 can handle your Cal 34. I wouldn't let the windlass take the load while at anchor, I'd snub the rode so that a cleat(s) takes the load. The size of the windlass should have nothing to do with whether your anchor will hold. That said, you do need to figure out whether 1/2 rope and 1/4 chain is beefy enough for your Cal. Bruce
Chuck, I purchased a 38 1/2 foot Dufour last summer and it came equipped with an Aires 1000 vertical windlass. I had no personal experience or knowledge of Quick at the time. I've since learned Quick is a well-regarded European manufacturer, somehow connected to Plastimo. I've had excellent experience with the unit and the technical support has also been great (I trashed a plastic part while getting to know the windlass my first day on the boat and Quick's Maryland-based rep sent me a replacement kit -free of charge- in the space of a few days). Practical Sailor did a review of mid-range windlasses over the past few years and highly rated the Quick in the test. My recollection is that the Quick on test was not the fastest of the entrants, but it had a lot of pulling power. My primary anchor is a 35 pound Delta and I've had no problems. I can't give you any feedback on the sizing of the windlass for your boat, but I'm sure Quick's website will tell you if they think the Genius 600 can handle your Cal 34. I wouldn't let the windlass take the load while at anchor, I'd snub the rode so that a cleat(s) takes the load. The size of the windlass should have nothing to do with whether your anchor will hold. That said, you do need to figure out whether 1/2 rope and 1/4 chain is beefy enough for your Cal. Bruce
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