Windlass Problems

[quadrille38]

do most of you retrieve the anchor only using the Windlass? Just wonde

I always have engine on. Manual for windlass says clearly that is is not for pulling the boat forward against wind or water. Use engine to to that.

 

[Ron20324]

? do most of you retrieve the anchor only using the Windlass? Just wondering.

DEPENDS ON THE CONDITIONS. CALM WATER, NOT A CONCERN HAVING THE WINDLASS PULL THE BOAT.

 

[Terry Cox]

Just wondering.

Depends on the conditions. In calm seas I will pull the rode (rope) in by hand until the boat is over the anchor, then use the windlass to bring the chain and anchor up (50 feet of chain, 40 pound Danforth, 20 pound kellet). In the few times wind/current pressure was strong enough that I could not pay in by hand (boat displaces 35,000 pounds) I used the windlass, but in short cycles so as to not overload the motor. In either case the main engine is running and if necessary I will put the engine in gear while at idle to help take some of the pressure off of the windlass where conditions dictate.

There have been a number of times when we experienced a strong blow during the night while at anchor. In the morning when seas were calm, getting the anchor unstuck from the bottom can become quite the chore. Wind pressure causes the Danforth to set deeper and in those times I have to work the windlass in short cycles to gradually unseat the anchor so as to avoid popping the breaker. I will work the Maxwell windlass to the point of almost a stop, then release the foot switch. Then repeat until the anchor is free.

Other times the anchor will hang up on something; log, tree, rock, etc. In those rare cases I will motor the boat in the opposing direction and then back away, which causes the anchor to unseat from whatever it was stuck on. So far these techniques have worked over the years and have yet to end up cutting away the ground tackle.

 

[BigEasy]

Few notes:
I always run engine 1500 to 2000 rpms while using windlass.

When retrieving anchor, I “sweat” the anchor rode by hand and let the
windlass take up the slack in the line as the boat has forward momentum,
alternating between sweating line & using windlass. I cleat off the chain to
unstick the anchor and pick up the remaining chain with the windlass after
removing chain from the cleat.

Agree with everyone above, low battery voltage/amps, faulty switch or breaker, ( you have already checked solenoid), check fuse & wiring from solenoid to switch. If all checks out, do what daydreamer said & take it to an automotive starter/alternator shop to have the motor checked out. May
need new brushes.

 

[DayDreamer41]

@BigEasy I believe the OP figured out his issue and identified a bad circuit breaker, replaced the breaker and all is well. Our Sapphire has 100' of 3/8" chain before the rode starts, I rarely feed out past the chain when anchored to go for a swim, with all the free board of our boat it take very little wind to provide a fair amount of resistance so we always have a person at the helm and one on the bow retrieving the anchor using the windless, that hand over hand with chain is too much like work......

 

[BigEasy]

@BigEasy so we always have a person at the helm and one on the bow retrieving the anchor using the windless, that hand over hand with chain is too much like work......

Know what you’re talking about! Because I am single handing most of the time, I don’t have the luxury of the helms person slowly approaching the anchor while the windlass takes up the rode/chain. Never fun, especially when the chain is muddy!

 

[jssailem]

Len, How did you figure the 2.5 Engine to Alternator RPM ratio?
Looking at the two pulley wheels I can see how the ratio is positive just not sure of the calculation.

 

[ice breaker]

There are a few comments here where the operator of the Windlass is doing so without the motor running, I was taught that the Windlass is not intended to pull the boat toward the anchor, but rather is only designed to lift the chain & rode while moving the boat toward the anchor. Was I taught incorrectly? do most of you retrieve the anchor only using the Windlass? Just wondering.

Not taught wrong, but technology changes and has gotten stronger. I single hand a lot. I have pulled the boat to the anchor in even 30 KN winds using just the windlass. 800lb of pull. I have done this for 10 years and probably 500 retrievals in that time.. Yes the motor is running..

 

[Hello Below]

Len, How did you figure the 2.5 Engine to Alternator RPM ratio?
Looking at the two pulley wheels I can see how the ratio is positive just not sure of the calculation.

Good eye John and thank you. No matter how much stickhandling I could do, the bottom line is I was wrong stating that the crankshaft and Balmar alternator pulley ratio was 2.5.

Shortly after I purchased the boat new in 2012, I measured the crankshaft pulley and at the time, the OEM 80A Hitachi alternator pulley. I have an entry in the boat's log that states the crankshaft pulley was approx. 125mm and the alternator pulley was approx. 50mm giving the ratio of 2.5. Unfortunately, the log does not provide any detail as to how or what I measured to get those values and for the likes of me I cannot remember anything about it. I replaced the Hitachi with a 100A Balmar 6 Series over 3 years ago and simply carried that ratio with me. Because of your question, I went to the boat today and rather than physically measuring pulleys in hard to reach areas, I used a digital tachometer, reflective tape and measured the RPM at the crankshaft (approx 800) and at the alternator (approx 1475) which results in a ratio of 1.85.

Rather than misleading SBO members in the future, I have deleted my post in total.

Thanks again.

 

[jssailem]

The idea was a good one. It made sense to me. Just wondered how you did the calculation after reviewing the Balmer document. Thanks for sharing.

 

[DayDreamer41]

Drive over Driven x output RPM