Windlass problem oceanis 36cc

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carlager

.
Oct 2, 2010
127
Beneteau 36 cc Humlebæk
The windlass (leroy-somer S801) on my Oceanis 36cc has stopped responding.

I have checked the connectivity of the circuit breaker (blue sea systems product 7001) and the remote control and not found any problems. There is however no voltage on the remote.

I now need to check the solenoid. It is placed in starboard locker in the forecabin.

So far I have found 12V between what I believe is the incoming side of the solenoid and the negative conduction from the anchor motor and 12V between the outgoing side of the solenoid and the same negative conduction from the anchor motor.

I would highly appreciate if someone could

A) Mail me a wiring diagram (Leroy-Somer discontinued the production of the S 801 some time ago. I have not been able to find anything on their website)

Or

B) Explain to me what I should look for on the solenoid or at other places in the wiring.


I look very much forward to help on this


Regards

Carl
 
Ron20324

Ron20324

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Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
carlager said:
There is however no voltage on the remote. Carl
Click to expand
Most windlasses are wired about the same. I do not know your brand, but there should be a small-amperage (2 to 5?)fuse in the + line to your remote.
 
C

carlager

.
Oct 2, 2010
127
Beneteau 36 cc Humlebæk
Ron,

Thanx for your reply.

The cable runs from the Remote in the cockpit to the solenoid in the forecabin. I have not found any fuses in the cockpit. Will they most likely be at the solenoid ?
 
Ron20324

Ron20324

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Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
carlager said:
...The cable runs from the Remote in the cockpit to the solenoid in the forecabin. I have not found any fuses in the cockpit. Will they most likely be at the solenoid ?
Click to expand
It depends where the +12 wire feeds your up/down switch FROM. Perhaps a circuit breaker on the DC panel? Or from the solenoid?

The remote-switch cable is most likely (but maybe not) a smaller wire than what is run TO the solenoid from the 12v source. The fuse would be rated for the smaller-size wire, and SHOULD be at the solenoid. That means the 12v runs from the solenoid, to the up/down switch, and back to the solenoid. That's alot of wire, alot of voltage loss. In my boat I just picked up 12 volts the instrument power supply at the helm, so maybe that's how your is?
 
C

carlager

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Oct 2, 2010
127
Beneteau 36 cc Humlebæk
Ron,

Found a 10A fuse on a wire connecting 2 small wires from the windlass and 1 of the 3 wires in the remote cable to the - line on the solenoid to the - on the battery.

I replaced the fuse, but still no voltage on the remote and no reaction when pressing any of the 2 foot switches on the windlass.

Checked for voltage on the solenoid.

There are 4 studs on the solenoid.

1 is used for connection from + on the battery and 1 is used for connection to - on the battery There is full voltage between the two.

Would that indicate that the solenoid is ok ?

The 2 other studs are used for 2 wires connected to the windlass.


Both must be + as there is full voltage between each of them and the - wire to the battery.
 
C

carlager

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Oct 2, 2010
127
Beneteau 36 cc Humlebæk
Not really. At that time all I had to do was to close the circuit breaker. But that does not solve the problem now
 
joker460

joker460

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Apr 27, 2010
968
Beneteau 352 Hull #276 Ontario
If you refer to the diagram I suppliied, There must be voltage between A1 and C or between A2 and C (C= ground connection to Battery (-)) when either the up or down switch is pressed respectively. If you have voltage there and nothing happens with the windless. 1.) If you don't hear the solenoid click the coil is open. 2.) If you hear the solenoid click then I would suspect the motor is open. Rare that both coils are bad, but it can happen.

Good luck
 
C

carlager

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Oct 2, 2010
127
Beneteau 36 cc Humlebæk
Joker,

Thanx for your mail.

Will try to measure voltage as suggested and keep you posted.
 
C

carlager

.
Oct 2, 2010
127
Beneteau 36 cc Humlebæk
Joker,

There is A1, -, C, - , A2 on the solenoid. It is not possible to connect anything on C.

Should voltage be measured on A1 and - repectively - and A2 ?
 
C

carlager

.
Oct 2, 2010
127
Beneteau 36 cc Humlebæk
Joker,

A1 has a blue thin wire from the foot switch and a green/yellow thin wire from the Remote cable

A2 has a brown thin wire from the foot switch and a light blue thin wire from the Remote cable

- next to A2 has a blue wire from a cable with a brown wire that has been cut. I can't see where this cable lead to.

- Next to A1 is just connected with - Next to A2
 
joker460

joker460

.
Apr 27, 2010
968
Beneteau 352 Hull #276 Ontario
You measure from A1 to C or A2 to C . If wired as per sketch then pushing the UP will energize A1-C coil and the DOWN will energize the A2-C Coil.

C will be connected to the negative side of the battery.

One other thing to measure if you hear the click of the solenoid is the voltage across the motor. If there is voltage the motor is gone. If there is no voltage then you will need to investigate the connections from the motor to the solenoid and check for continuity. If the continuity checks out.
The solenoid contacts are bad.
 
C

carlager

.
Oct 2, 2010
127
Beneteau 36 cc Humlebæk
Joker.

There is no click on the solenoid when UP or DOWN is pressed. There is no voltage between A1 and C or A2 and C

Connectivity is ok between

1). A1 and A2
2) M1 and M2
3) Battery + and M1
4) Battery + and M2

There is no connectivity between

5) M1 and A1
6) M1 and A2
7) M2 and A1
8) M2 and A2
9) Battery + and A1
10) Battery + and A2
 
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