Windlass on a Yamaha 30?

[Blue Horizon]

I'm keeping fit pulling up my anchor by hand, but I'm beginning to think a windlass is something to consider. Does anyone have a windlass installed on their Yamaha 30. Would be great to see what was installed, and where, and additional hardware needed. Pic's would be wonderful. And, do you like your model of windlass. I have the engine in the vberth but I don't think it makes any difference.

Thanks!

 

[Satori]

A former owner of one down the dock from me had installed one but the boat is no longer around here. He was a HD mechanic and could fabricate things but in essence it was: an upright shaft, mounted on a bracket (aluminum?) that attached inside the anchor well. (rested on the inner well edge?) It protruded up through the anchor well hatch cover. Can't remember if he had foot switches or a hand held. I was jealous but never went ahead with one. THe advantage of the motor in the bow is the battery run would be relatively short.

 

[Blue Horizon]

Thanks Satori. That’s was the setup I was considering and great to hear you’ve seen that. appreciate the reply.

If anyone else has that setup please let me know.

Thanks all!

 

[X24]

Sorry for the late response - my 1981 Y-30 has an old Muir with a pawl mounted horizontally on the port side of the anchor locker. I have to peel the chain and rope myself as there is no drop. This task is much easier with the chain as without a peeler arm the rope can easily remain caught in the gypsy teeth. There's a foot switch nearby that I can operate in bursts with one hand while peeling the rope/chain with the other whilst squatting in the forepeak. It's so old Muir don't actually know what model it is based on the pics I sent them, and it just stopped working so I'm going to pull it out for a good service and going over. Watch this space.

 

[jssailem]

Windlasses are used on many boats. Up here, north of 48º Latitude, you need to consider the water depths, tidal changes, wind, and sea state conditions that are required for the length of chain/rode necessary to safely anchor.

30ft (9 meters) depths are normal in many of the anchorages. If you're going to be addressing 10 ft (3 meter) tidal change and you need to have a 5:1 scope out that is 200ft (70 meters) of chain and road so that you can sleep the night. In some of the northern remote anchorages, you drop in 60ft (18.2 meters) of water and run a 500ft line to shore and back so that you can hold in a tight spot safely.

You need to plan your windlass and chain/rode so that you can manage the conditions. Vertical windlasses, like the Lewmar 3V (what I installed) require 12 plus inches of vertical chain drop beneath the windlass. The vertical windlass has about a 180º engagement on the chain/rode. This reduces the chance of chain/rode slippage during use. This may not work on your boat in the conventional sense (totally hidden in an anchor locker). Horizontal windlasses are more forgiving in a shallow locker and alignment of the chain/rode, but can suffer from less grip on the chain/rode when retrieving.

Shout out to @mermike. He recently installed a windlass on his Y33. You might search for threads about it here on SBO

 

[Blue Horizon]

Sorry for the late response - my 1981 Y-30 has an old Muir with a pawl mounted horizontally on the port side of the anchor locker. I have to peel the chain and rope myself as there is no drop. This task is much easier with the chain as without a peeler arm the rope can easily remain caught in the gypsy teeth. There's a foot switch nearby that I can operate in bursts with one hand while peeling the rope/chain with the other whilst squatting in the forepeak. It's so old Muir don't actually know what model it is based on the pics I sent them, and it just stopped working so I'm going to pull it out for a good service and going over. Watch this space. View attachment 236437View attachment 236438

x24, thanks so much for the note and PM that you had sent one. These are great pics and much appreciated of your setup. Very creative setting up a vertical windlass on a horizontal plane. Any comments on how strong you feel the existing anchor locker structure appears to be for mounting and the purpose? The winch would draw down in angle just a bit from the bow roller. Does it clear or any chance you send a photo of that included?
Again, thanks so much for the details. Hope the rebuild goes smooth!

Cheers!

 

[Blue Horizon]

Windlasses are used on many boats. Up here, north of 48º Latitude, you need to consider the water depths, tidal changes, wind, and sea state conditions that are required for the length of chain/rode necessary to safely anchor.

30ft (9 meters) depths are normal in many of the anchorages. If you're going to be addressing 10 ft (3 meter) tidal change and you need to have a 5:1 scope out that is 200ft (70 meters) of chain and road so that you can sleep the night. In some of the northern remote anchorages, you drop in 60ft (18.2 meters) of water and run a 500ft line to shore and back so that you can hold in a tight spot safely.

You need to plan your windlass and chain/rode so that you can manage the conditions. Vertical windlasses, like the Lewmar 3V (what I installed) require 12 plus inches of vertical chain drop beneath the windlass. The vertical windlass has about a 180º engagement on the chain/rode. This reduces the chance of chain/rode slippage during use. This may not work on your boat in the conventional sense (totally hidden in an anchor locker). Horizontal windlasses are more forgiving in a shallow locker and alignment of the chain/rode, but can suffer from less grip on the chain/rode when retrieving.

Shout out to @mermike. He recently installed a windlass on his Y33. You might search for threads about it here on SBO

Thanks Jssailem - much appreciate the thoughts, insights and references. The Yamaha 33 has a bit more bow space but I welcome all ideas. Thanks again!

 

[X24]

x24, thanks so much for the note and PM that you had sent one. These are great pics and much appreciated of your setup. Very creative setting up a vertical windlass on a horizontal plane. Any comments on how strong you feel the existing anchor locker structure appears to be for mounting and the purpose? The winch would draw down in angle just a bit from the bow roller. Does it clear or any chance you send a photo of that included?
Again, thanks so much for the details. Hope the rebuild goes smooth!

Cheers!

Greetings BH, glad you got the post ok. It seems very strong to me, doesn't move at all so the structure can definitely handle it especially with that solid piece of hardwood clamped into the assembly, however as you noted the chain doesn't run clear and has worn a shallow groove into the forward edge of the locker. I will submit some pics tomorrow when I am down at the yacht.

 

[mermike]

Perhaps this will help. I replaced the anchor locker cover with a plate made of 2 pieces of 0.5" Coosa board, glassed over and vacuum bagged. The gray cover was temporary. I replaced it with the original hatch cut in half and reinforced

If I was going to do it again I'd mount the windlass at the aft end of the locker so I could more easily pull the chain forward.

I've since sold the boat and don't think I have any pictures of the completed installation.

 

[X24]

You can see how the anchor chain drags both down and across to the left, scoring the deck in the process. The stainless bow fitting is after-market I believe. I plan to repair the gouges and fit a layer of something suitable to protect the glass from any further damage.

 

[jssailem]

The chain drag is due to the alignment of the windlass with the bow roller.

If you want to address that, you will need to make the chain follow a straight line from the windlass through the center of the anchor well channel and than through the center of the bow roller. Looking at the image that approach will put the bow roller dropping the chain at an angle to the boat centerline. Not an impossible compromise. It will require the use of a snubber line while anchored to remove any angular strain on the chain. During retrieving the anchor you will need to adjust the boat approach so that the chain is retrieved aligned to the bow roller.

Or you can alter the fiberglass channel to align with your current chain setup. I suspect you will see chafe on the bow roller and possibly on the windlass over time based on the present alignment configuration. That maybe be an acceptable compromise.

Boats are a constant state of compromises.