I am looking for a windlass for my 2002 Hunter 306 which I single hand most of the time. Which make and model do you use or would recommend?
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Lewmar
Hi Don - The first thing to consider is whether you want a vertical or horizontal windlass. I'd recommend a vertical windlass for your boat, as it's more flush. You can get them with or withough drums - again, I'd recommend without in order to keep the deck more flush. Lewmar's V series (V700) would be a good choice for a vertical, their Pro 1000 would be a good choice for horizontal if that's the way you'd rather go. FYI, the Spring 600 would be a good fit but I believe they've been discontinued. Maxwell, Lofrans, and Ideal also make good windlasses but I'd go with Lewmar for price and availability. Considering rode, I'd go with at least 30' chain (to match gypsy) and rope. Just some suggestions.... good luck! Trevor
Hi Don - The first thing to consider is whether you want a vertical or horizontal windlass. I'd recommend a vertical windlass for your boat, as it's more flush. You can get them with or withough drums - again, I'd recommend without in order to keep the deck more flush. Lewmar's V series (V700) would be a good choice for a vertical, their Pro 1000 would be a good choice for horizontal if that's the way you'd rather go. FYI, the Spring 600 would be a good fit but I believe they've been discontinued. Maxwell, Lofrans, and Ideal also make good windlasses but I'd go with Lewmar for price and availability. Considering rode, I'd go with at least 30' chain (to match gypsy) and rope. Just some suggestions.... good luck! Trevor
Electirc or Manual
I'd go for a manual over an electric as the electric windlasses have very large cables that need to be run from the batteries or require the installation of batteries near the bow. These things can draw 50+ amps when operating so there are some pretty significant cabling requirements. They don't run for very long so your AH consumption budget should not have too many issues. With that said and the fact that you sail single a lot why not just use a manual winch in the cockpit to haul up the anchor? Just run the rode back to the winch and then up to the bow roller. This eliminates the need for a windlass that you have to go forward to operate all together.
I'd go for a manual over an electric as the electric windlasses have very large cables that need to be run from the batteries or require the installation of batteries near the bow. These things can draw 50+ amps when operating so there are some pretty significant cabling requirements. They don't run for very long so your AH consumption budget should not have too many issues. With that said and the fact that you sail single a lot why not just use a manual winch in the cockpit to haul up the anchor? Just run the rode back to the winch and then up to the bow roller. This eliminates the need for a windlass that you have to go forward to operate all together.
I second Bill
and you don't even need to crank it in. Just start the engine and go forward at idle and pull in the rode as you go. This is how I normally anchor and I have a windlass. Now if you have all chain or you have a very heavy anchor or a lot of chain that you use in deep water, then a windlass is a good idea. I just ordered a 44 lb anchor. Tomorrow I'm going to get 50' of chain. It shouldn't be a problem to pull up without a windlass for me but I will not know for sure until I try. I also want to get a VERY big storm anchor (80 lb Fortress should do the trick). 30 years from now...I'll need that windlass so I'm saving it for then. Things like windlasses break at the wrong times (the old salts are wearing on me...next thing you know I'll be saying we don't need any electronics
). Not a good idea to become reliant on them. Mine has thrown the breaker switch twice on me. Once was when I was dragging and I was just 20 yards from the rocks...bad time to have to run into the cabin to flip a switch. Also, I've drained my battery so dead it wouldn't start the engine once when I used the windlass so now I always start the engine to use it anyway. Might as well put it in gear and pull it in that way
and you don't even need to crank it in. Just start the engine and go forward at idle and pull in the rode as you go. This is how I normally anchor and I have a windlass. Now if you have all chain or you have a very heavy anchor or a lot of chain that you use in deep water, then a windlass is a good idea. I just ordered a 44 lb anchor. Tomorrow I'm going to get 50' of chain. It shouldn't be a problem to pull up without a windlass for me but I will not know for sure until I try. I also want to get a VERY big storm anchor (80 lb Fortress should do the trick). 30 years from now...I'll need that windlass so I'm saving it for then. Things like windlasses break at the wrong times (the old salts are wearing on me...next thing you know I'll be saying we don't need any electronics
). Not a good idea to become reliant on them. Mine has thrown the breaker switch twice on me. Once was when I was dragging and I was just 20 yards from the rocks...bad time to have to run into the cabin to flip a switch. Also, I've drained my battery so dead it wouldn't start the engine once when I used the windlass so now I always start the engine to use it anyway. Might as well put it in gear and pull it in that way 
Oh No! The wheel has been reinvented. Again!
What is it Franklin? I don't recognize it. What's YOUR working load? Have you a link?
What is it Franklin? I don't recognize it. What's YOUR working load? Have you a link?
It's a Bulwagga
The link is to the retailer. I've been looking at this anchor for over a year now and has been on my wish list for a long time. Because not many places sell it, I was worried about the quality. I talked with the sales guy at NavStore for a while. He seems like a trust worthly guy. He says he has had two returned in the three years they've been carrying them. One because the guy said it didn't hold any better then his other anchors and another because the guy couldn't find a good way to store it on the boat. The sales guy, Rich, said that he has had some come back and order a second so that's a good sign. They are expensive but what I like about them is that if they get tripped, they will always reset on their own. The Danforth sometimes will. I also like how they seem to work best in the #1 weakness of the Danforth...grass. The anchor was in two tests that I know of...one by PS. PS gave it a very good rating for sand. It got a decent rating for mud. What I found surprising is that they said it held better in mud then the danforth. Supposedly, the owner already owned a manufacturing company and got tired of nothing working in grass where he is, so he built his own back in the late 80s. Says the anchor isn't the money maker of the company...just a personal achievement for the owner and his boat. Because they are expensive, I don't recommend anybody buy one until I give it a good testing this month. I'll let ya know. Me adding the kellet and the extra chain and getting one size bigger may tamper the results though.
The link is to the retailer. I've been looking at this anchor for over a year now and has been on my wish list for a long time. Because not many places sell it, I was worried about the quality. I talked with the sales guy at NavStore for a while. He seems like a trust worthly guy. He says he has had two returned in the three years they've been carrying them. One because the guy said it didn't hold any better then his other anchors and another because the guy couldn't find a good way to store it on the boat. The sales guy, Rich, said that he has had some come back and order a second so that's a good sign. They are expensive but what I like about them is that if they get tripped, they will always reset on their own. The Danforth sometimes will. I also like how they seem to work best in the #1 weakness of the Danforth...grass. The anchor was in two tests that I know of...one by PS. PS gave it a very good rating for sand. It got a decent rating for mud. What I found surprising is that they said it held better in mud then the danforth. Supposedly, the owner already owned a manufacturing company and got tired of nothing working in grass where he is, so he built his own back in the late 80s. Says the anchor isn't the money maker of the company...just a personal achievement for the owner and his boat. Because they are expensive, I don't recommend anybody buy one until I give it a good testing this month. I'll let ya know. Me adding the kellet and the extra chain and getting one size bigger may tamper the results though.
I'm trying to think of a reason it won't work.
Oh yeah. I can't find a sizing chart. Where did you go to settle on the 44 pounder? Fitting under a roller furling drum might be tight. Hmmm,,,,
Oh yeah. I can't find a sizing chart. Where did you go to settle on the 44 pounder? Fitting under a roller furling drum might be tight. Hmmm,,,,
October '06 SAIL...
tested 14 anchors that represented virtually everything on the market. Their conclusion was "results still confirm the rule of thumb that every boat should carry at least THREE different anchor designs and weights to deal with a wide variety of bottom types". Bulwagga max'd out at 2,974lb. load. They concluded "this anchor SHOULD be able to handle the load a 35-40 ft. boat can exert on an anchor with a MINIMUM of 5-1 scope; performance dropped off dramatically at 3-1".Delta, Hydrobubble, Fortress,Manson Supreme, Oceane, and Rocna all topped out at 5,000lb. load, but all had different break out and reset profiles. The one they seemed highest on and most surprised with was the Hydrobubble, "This anchor's performance EXCEEDED our capacity to exert force on it", was a telling comment. Excellent reading, and I thought a well designed test of what is currently out there.
tested 14 anchors that represented virtually everything on the market. Their conclusion was "results still confirm the rule of thumb that every boat should carry at least THREE different anchor designs and weights to deal with a wide variety of bottom types". Bulwagga max'd out at 2,974lb. load. They concluded "this anchor SHOULD be able to handle the load a 35-40 ft. boat can exert on an anchor with a MINIMUM of 5-1 scope; performance dropped off dramatically at 3-1".Delta, Hydrobubble, Fortress,Manson Supreme, Oceane, and Rocna all topped out at 5,000lb. load, but all had different break out and reset profiles. The one they seemed highest on and most surprised with was the Hydrobubble, "This anchor's performance EXCEEDED our capacity to exert force on it", was a telling comment. Excellent reading, and I thought a well designed test of what is currently out there.
huh?
"they are ugly" I think they are cool looking. I love how they look. They just might keep other boats away from mine too when they see that on the bow "and who wants to deploy and retrieve 5 anchors?" You lost me there. I'm only talking about one anchor.
"they are ugly" I think they are cool looking. I love how they look. They just might keep other boats away from mine too when they see that on the bow
"and who wants to deploy and retrieve 5 anchors?" You lost me there. I'm only talking about one anchor.
Having read the Sail 06
article on the anchors test; I looked at the test conditions and do not dispute their findings but got to say that the "best anchor" is the one that will work best for your particular anchorage conditions irrespective of the holding strength of the rig. Different combinations of factors like type of bottom, limitations on swing room, currents, water depth, tidal range, exposure to wind and the boat's behavior may require a specific set up. We have to remeber also a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. The anchor shackle, the chain, the rode and the cleats would need to sustain the loads on the anchors as well. Lastly ease of deploying, retreiving and storage will factor in the decision. We continue on the search for the elusive perfect anchor. Got to say, that the design and capabilities of that Bulwagga (hate to ask the name of the designer) sound very interesting.
article on the anchors test; I looked at the test conditions and do not dispute their findings but got to say that the "best anchor" is the one that will work best for your particular anchorage conditions irrespective of the holding strength of the rig. Different combinations of factors like type of bottom, limitations on swing room, currents, water depth, tidal range, exposure to wind and the boat's behavior may require a specific set up. We have to remeber also a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. The anchor shackle, the chain, the rode and the cleats would need to sustain the loads on the anchors as well. Lastly ease of deploying, retreiving and storage will factor in the decision. We continue on the search for the elusive perfect anchor. Got to say, that the design and capabilities of that Bulwagga (hate to ask the name of the designer) sound very interesting.
Not Good
I looked into adding windlass to my 290 same boat,anchor locker too small not deep enough and anchor will not drop unless up at bow at the anchor locker. Some one else had it on his boat and he complained it did not work properly and was a waste.
I looked into adding windlass to my 290 same boat,anchor locker too small not deep enough and anchor will not drop unless up at bow at the anchor locker. Some one else had it on his boat and he complained it did not work properly and was a waste.
Thanks All...
for the info. I have used the cockpit winch to haul up the line while on the mud bottom. Think I'll save the $ and continue to do just that.
for the info. I have used the cockpit winch to haul up the line while on the mud bottom. Think I'll save the $ and continue to do just that.
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