Anyone add a windlass to a 30G? There's nothing in the archives. Probably for good reason... Problems: 1. The bow roller on my boat is angled (necessary to get it past the furler) and aims the chain on a line parallel (and close to) the starboard rail. If the windlass were installed in the center of the anchor hatch door, the chain and rope would have to be directed back to the boat's centerline... but it would abrade against the bow roller's port-side chain guide wall (and probably rub off the chrome - ?) 2. You can't just install the windlass in the anchor locker door -- it's too flimsy. Nor can you solve the problem by affixing and reinforcing the door -- the door needs to be opened to fill the water tank (and deal with chain/rode foulups, etc.) I think a good installation would involve chucking the current anchor locker door, mounting the windlass on the starboard half of the anchor well, and adding a custom door to the port side of the anchor well. Thoughts?
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Windlass installation
I installed a windlass (actually I had it done by the yard)on my '93 Hunter 30T. It was a manual windlass and was installed directly behind the anchor locker on the starboard side. There is a straight run from the anchor roller to the windlass. I have to help the chain get in the locker a bit. The access to the underside of the windlass was through the back of the anchor locker. The installation is quite neat and good looking. I love my windlass and if you anchor a lot you should not be without one. I was advised not to get a manual windlass by several people including the experts who installed my manual one. I am very happy that I got a manual windlass. I would not hesitate to go manual again. I've included a pic. More info on request.
I installed a windlass (actually I had it done by the yard)on my '93 Hunter 30T. It was a manual windlass and was installed directly behind the anchor locker on the starboard side. There is a straight run from the anchor roller to the windlass. I have to help the chain get in the locker a bit. The access to the underside of the windlass was through the back of the anchor locker. The installation is quite neat and good looking. I love my windlass and if you anchor a lot you should not be without one. I was advised not to get a manual windlass by several people including the experts who installed my manual one. I am very happy that I got a manual windlass. I would not hesitate to go manual again. I've included a pic. More info on request.
Photo?
When I click on Steve's "Related Photo" no picture appears for me. Are others having this problem?
When I click on Steve's "Related Photo" no picture appears for me. Are others having this problem?
I'll try again, but it was working
I checked when I submitted my response and it was working. So something happened later. Cheers, Steve
I checked when I submitted my response and it was working. So something happened later. Cheers, Steve
Attachments
Nothing below?
Thanks for the post and pic - I think this is the ideal installation. It's a manual windlass, so there's nothing below except the mounting bolts -- how did the yard deal with the separation (if any in that location) between the deck and the interior hull liner? Is the manual windlass easy to use, in your experience -- and is it really an improvement over hauling the hook up with the old heave-ho? Best, Bryan
Thanks for the post and pic - I think this is the ideal installation. It's a manual windlass, so there's nothing below except the mounting bolts -- how did the yard deal with the separation (if any in that location) between the deck and the interior hull liner? Is the manual windlass easy to use, in your experience -- and is it really an improvement over hauling the hook up with the old heave-ho? Best, Bryan
manual windlass
Basically they gauged out the relevant areas between the deck and liner with a bent nail in a drill and filled it with epoxy, put a backing plate under the liner and bolted the whole thing down. The bolts go through the epoxy. They cut a hole about 6" square in the back of the anchor locker to access the underside of the installation. Slick as a cat's whisker! You could do this yourself. Don Casey explains exactly how to mount things on deck in his book Hull and Deck Repair. The only really tricky part is getting access to the underside and figuring exactly where to mount it so that you have a perfectly straight run for the chain and room to swing the winch handle in a full circle. I'd be happy to supply more pics in a month or so when we go up to the boat for spring launching. I am extremely happy with my manual windlass (Simpson-Lawrence Anchorman) and as I mentioned the yard guys who installed it and another boat guru whom I trust and others urged me to get an electric windlass. Nevertheless, I would not hesitate to install the manual windlass again even if I could afford an electric one. It is very easy to raise the anchor. Basically I just sit on a cushion and wind it in, gently guiding the chain into the locker with my left hand. It mostly goes in by itself. At points it does take some arm strength, but mostly I just wind it up, aided by the engine moving the boat forward. I think I could raise the anchor without engine help on a windy day but it would take a lot of sweat. When there is little or no wind, we do not use the engine. The main reasons that I got the windlass however are safety related. We used a 22 lb Bruce and 50' of chain. Several times before we got the windlass I had to raise the anchor in very windy conditions with the boat veering back and forth, and bouncing up and down. The chain was snapping and bouncing dangerously and I had no safe way to secure it while bringing it in hand-over-hand on a heaving bow. I figured getting a finger caught under the chain would not be fun. Now I do not touch the chain or rope when it is under stress, it comes in smoothly, and the windlass holds it if I want to stop half way through or whatever. And the chain isn't banging into the furler drum. One thing before you install a windlass. Your current chain and/or rope might not be usable even if it is the right size and weight. The chain must fit the windlass drum perfectly and there are different size and shape links and they won't all fit. And the chain-to-rope connector must be able to move over the drum smoothly. Be sure to check all this out in advance. I hope this helps. Cheers, Steve
Basically they gauged out the relevant areas between the deck and liner with a bent nail in a drill and filled it with epoxy, put a backing plate under the liner and bolted the whole thing down. The bolts go through the epoxy. They cut a hole about 6" square in the back of the anchor locker to access the underside of the installation. Slick as a cat's whisker! You could do this yourself. Don Casey explains exactly how to mount things on deck in his book Hull and Deck Repair. The only really tricky part is getting access to the underside and figuring exactly where to mount it so that you have a perfectly straight run for the chain and room to swing the winch handle in a full circle. I'd be happy to supply more pics in a month or so when we go up to the boat for spring launching. I am extremely happy with my manual windlass (Simpson-Lawrence Anchorman) and as I mentioned the yard guys who installed it and another boat guru whom I trust and others urged me to get an electric windlass. Nevertheless, I would not hesitate to install the manual windlass again even if I could afford an electric one. It is very easy to raise the anchor. Basically I just sit on a cushion and wind it in, gently guiding the chain into the locker with my left hand. It mostly goes in by itself. At points it does take some arm strength, but mostly I just wind it up, aided by the engine moving the boat forward. I think I could raise the anchor without engine help on a windy day but it would take a lot of sweat. When there is little or no wind, we do not use the engine. The main reasons that I got the windlass however are safety related. We used a 22 lb Bruce and 50' of chain. Several times before we got the windlass I had to raise the anchor in very windy conditions with the boat veering back and forth, and bouncing up and down. The chain was snapping and bouncing dangerously and I had no safe way to secure it while bringing it in hand-over-hand on a heaving bow. I figured getting a finger caught under the chain would not be fun. Now I do not touch the chain or rope when it is under stress, it comes in smoothly, and the windlass holds it if I want to stop half way through or whatever. And the chain isn't banging into the furler drum. One thing before you install a windlass. Your current chain and/or rope might not be usable even if it is the right size and weight. The chain must fit the windlass drum perfectly and there are different size and shape links and they won't all fit. And the chain-to-rope connector must be able to move over the drum smoothly. Be sure to check all this out in advance. I hope this helps. Cheers, Steve
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