My winches are real stiff on my 1975 H30. I would like to service them but never have had the opportunity to learn how. does anyone have any suggestions. I think they are Merriman (sp)25's, or 30's. Thanks ahead of time Barry
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Clean & lube
Barry, I've been waiting to see if some old salt would give you some pointers on winch service but as we can see, the old salts must be sleeping, I'll give you my 2 cents for what it's worth. I usually lay out a clean drop cloth, and methodically take each winch apart, laying out the pieces in order so as not to mix up the reassembly. I would also suggest doing one at a time. if the first one does not work right upon reassemble, you still have at least one other to examine to see what you did wrong. I use a pan with gasoline and I've heard others use paint thinner. a spray can of "brake-clean" from an auto parts store might also do the trick. If available, compressed air might also help in the process. After the parts are clean and dry, I would suggest using a light oil to lube the parts during reassembly (like gun oil). Some may suggest that oil attracts dirt and a graphite lube would be better. I'll stick with gun oil as I know it works. Hope this helps, Don Bodemann
Barry, I've been waiting to see if some old salt would give you some pointers on winch service but as we can see, the old salts must be sleeping, I'll give you my 2 cents for what it's worth. I usually lay out a clean drop cloth, and methodically take each winch apart, laying out the pieces in order so as not to mix up the reassembly. I would also suggest doing one at a time. if the first one does not work right upon reassemble, you still have at least one other to examine to see what you did wrong. I use a pan with gasoline and I've heard others use paint thinner. a spray can of "brake-clean" from an auto parts store might also do the trick. If available, compressed air might also help in the process. After the parts are clean and dry, I would suggest using a light oil to lube the parts during reassembly (like gun oil). Some may suggest that oil attracts dirt and a graphite lube would be better. I'll stick with gun oil as I know it works. Hope this helps, Don Bodemann
thanks
Thanks for the input. What should I look for when disassmblying the winches? I think there is a spring clip on the top of it that will allow me to take the drum off, but what next? What do I look for inside. I'm also concerned about that spring clip on the top of the winch flying into the drink. I've seen some kits with pawls, and springs for other manufacturers, but still don't know what to look forinside this winch when it is open. Thanks again Barry
Thanks for the input. What should I look for when disassmblying the winches? I think there is a spring clip on the top of it that will allow me to take the drum off, but what next? What do I look for inside. I'm also concerned about that spring clip on the top of the winch flying into the drink. I've seen some kits with pawls, and springs for other manufacturers, but still don't know what to look forinside this winch when it is open. Thanks again Barry
Don't be scared
Barry, Don't let these things scare you. Just use caution and common sense and you should do fine. Yes, becareful removing that clip. Murphy will probably be lurking about and if you let that clip get away, you're right, it will find it's way into the drink! As the winch comes apart, look for broken parts or badley worn parts. The spring loaded pawls should be looked at closely and make sure they are free and snap back when moved. This is not like taking apart a clock or anything real complex. Typically there will be 2 spring loaded pawls. Just go slow and be able to retrace your steps. Any other questions feel free. Hopefully one of the old salts will wake up and share their wisdom also. I've only done a couple of winches on my old boats and none were two speed or self tailing. These extra features might make things a little more complex. Good luck, Don
Barry, Don't let these things scare you. Just use caution and common sense and you should do fine. Yes, becareful removing that clip. Murphy will probably be lurking about and if you let that clip get away, you're right, it will find it's way into the drink! As the winch comes apart, look for broken parts or badley worn parts. The spring loaded pawls should be looked at closely and make sure they are free and snap back when moved. This is not like taking apart a clock or anything real complex. Typically there will be 2 spring loaded pawls. Just go slow and be able to retrace your steps. Any other questions feel free. Hopefully one of the old salts will wake up and share their wisdom also. I've only done a couple of winches on my old boats and none were two speed or self tailing. These extra features might make things a little more complex. Good luck, Don
Go slow
and you shouldn't have any problems. Getting the retaining clip off is sometimes the most difficult part of the process. I original winches on my old 25 had a screw in the bottom of the winch handle hole that secured the drum. I haven't seen this on other winches but its worth a look. There is a special winch lube that I would use. Others probably work, but why take chances. Rick
and you shouldn't have any problems. Getting the retaining clip off is sometimes the most difficult part of the process. I original winches on my old 25 had a screw in the bottom of the winch handle hole that secured the drum. I haven't seen this on other winches but its worth a look. There is a special winch lube that I would use. Others probably work, but why take chances. Rick
Before taking the winch apart...
take a box taller than the winch and cut a round hole in the bottom the same size as the base of the winch. Place this over the winch and any part that might drop or fly off,..i.e., springs, pawls, retaining ring, will have a much better chance of falling into the box instead of in the drink. As you lift the drum off, there should be a set of pawls attached to the inside of the drum. Make note of how these are set before taking them off and cleaning them. You should be able to buy a repair kit for your particular winches if any of the springs or other small parts are worn or broken. Usually, the springs are the first to go. You should be able to locate a manual showing an exploded view of the inside of the winch. This is most helpful and takes some of the anxiety out of opening that contraption for the first time. If you're really nervous about opening it on the boat, you can always unbolt it, take it home and spread it out on the dining room table. Good luck, Roland SV Fraulein II Tarpon Springs, Fl.
take a box taller than the winch and cut a round hole in the bottom the same size as the base of the winch. Place this over the winch and any part that might drop or fly off,..i.e., springs, pawls, retaining ring, will have a much better chance of falling into the box instead of in the drink. As you lift the drum off, there should be a set of pawls attached to the inside of the drum. Make note of how these are set before taking them off and cleaning them. You should be able to buy a repair kit for your particular winches if any of the springs or other small parts are worn or broken. Usually, the springs are the first to go. You should be able to locate a manual showing an exploded view of the inside of the winch. This is most helpful and takes some of the anxiety out of opening that contraption for the first time. If you're really nervous about opening it on the boat, you can always unbolt it, take it home and spread it out on the dining room table. Good luck, Roland SV Fraulein II Tarpon Springs, Fl.
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