I have 2 questions: 1) For the first time, this year the main halyard binds every time I try to use the winch. (Hunter 23', Maxwell 14 winch. Boat was bought 8 yrs ago used.) I notice a 1/4 to 3/8" gap between winch body and part that attaches to mast that I never noticed before. Is this related? I guess I need to take winch off...screw that attaches it to mast seems to be 'frozen' in - any good product to loosen? 2) Boat had an autotiller that broke 3 years ago and I never replaced. I prefer a low-tech solution, as I just need to hold tiller still long enough to raise sails, bring up fenders, etc. Do "tiller-tamers" really work well? I don't want to drill any holes in boat or tiller unless I'm really sure. Thanks, Robin
Winch and tiller tamer
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Yes on tamer.
I think a tiller tamer increases in value with the abilities of the sailor. It'll keep the course longer the better balanced your boat is. I'm not much of a sailor, only a year and a half, but I use a tamer extensively on my h23 when I'm singlehanding. It gives me just enough time to drop the mainsail and get it flaked and tied. If I make a mistake, like forget to unclutch the halyard, I have to go back and get the boat headed into the wind again and start over. In lighter winds when I've got things pretty well balanced, I can go below, make a sandwich and have time to spare. I also use it as a tiller extension. Can't help you on the mast winch. Don't have one. I've got my main halyard running back to the cockpit and have no problem raising the mainsail by hand (except for the nine times out of 10 that I discover the halyard has swung around and gotten caught on the steaming light). Mac
I think a tiller tamer increases in value with the abilities of the sailor. It'll keep the course longer the better balanced your boat is. I'm not much of a sailor, only a year and a half, but I use a tamer extensively on my h23 when I'm singlehanding. It gives me just enough time to drop the mainsail and get it flaked and tied. If I make a mistake, like forget to unclutch the halyard, I have to go back and get the boat headed into the wind again and start over. In lighter winds when I've got things pretty well balanced, I can go below, make a sandwich and have time to spare. I also use it as a tiller extension. Can't help you on the mast winch. Don't have one. I've got my main halyard running back to the cockpit and have no problem raising the mainsail by hand (except for the nine times out of 10 that I discover the halyard has swung around and gotten caught on the steaming light). Mac
Second the yes
I put one on a Glouchester 22 and it worked great for the uses you suggest. Just have to drill one small hole in the tiller. No holes in the boat if you have aft cleats that are positioned near the transom on either side of the boat.
I put one on a Glouchester 22 and it worked great for the uses you suggest. Just have to drill one small hole in the tiller. No holes in the boat if you have aft cleats that are positioned near the transom on either side of the boat.
A bungee is your friend...
Just put a couple of pad-eyes(or use aft cleats, stanchions etc)on either side of the cockpit. Stretch a bungee between them with a rap around the tiller. This allows easy adjustment as well as some 'give' to the tiller. (autohelms are for powerboats!) ;^) g'Luk
Just put a couple of pad-eyes(or use aft cleats, stanchions etc)on either side of the cockpit. Stretch a bungee between them with a rap around the tiller. This allows easy adjustment as well as some 'give' to the tiller. (autohelms are for powerboats!) ;^) g'Luk
bungee didn't work for me
Dear Didereux, How did you get bungee cords to work for you? I tried them. Though quite stiff, they 'give', so that by the time I go forward and am raising the mainsail, the boat turns a bit and the next thing you know, we're 'sailing'. I have to run back and forth several times to get the mailsail and the jib raised between straightening out the tiller.
Dear Didereux, How did you get bungee cords to work for you? I tried them. Though quite stiff, they 'give', so that by the time I go forward and am raising the mainsail, the boat turns a bit and the next thing you know, we're 'sailing'. I have to run back and forth several times to get the mailsail and the jib raised between straightening out the tiller.
Tiller tamer
On our 25.5, we use a "double bungee" hooked to the toe rail. There is a short length of nylon line connecting the two bungees. When we need to hold the tiller stationary, we make a single wrap of the nylon line around it. The bungees keep the line taught but both have a little give even when stretched. The permits small movements of the tiller to make course corrections.
On our 25.5, we use a "double bungee" hooked to the toe rail. There is a short length of nylon line connecting the two bungees. When we need to hold the tiller stationary, we make a single wrap of the nylon line around it. The bungees keep the line taught but both have a little give even when stretched. The permits small movements of the tiller to make course corrections.
Tiller Tamer
I use an arrangement like Didereaux's above on my AF D-18. Just a bungee stretched between pads on the gunwales and wrapped around the tiller. I have a store bought Tiller Tamer on my Mac 23. I use similar techniques for both. When I am raising or lowering the main, I start out with the boat 15 to 30 degrees off the wind. I set the tiller so that it will move the boat through the wind. I raise/lower the main as the boat is into the wind.
I use an arrangement like Didereaux's above on my AF D-18. Just a bungee stretched between pads on the gunwales and wrapped around the tiller. I have a store bought Tiller Tamer on my Mac 23. I use similar techniques for both. When I am raising or lowering the main, I start out with the boat 15 to 30 degrees off the wind. I set the tiller so that it will move the boat through the wind. I raise/lower the main as the boat is into the wind.
Product for frozen screws, seacocks, etc.
PB Blaster. It's hard to believe how good this stuff works -- and you can get it at WalMart. It freed up the frozen seacocks on the boat I just bought.
PB Blaster. It's hard to believe how good this stuff works -- and you can get it at WalMart. It freed up the frozen seacocks on the boat I just bought.
Tiller Tamer
Robin: I started using a tiller tamer just this season. I didn't used to sail single handed but I'm having a harder time getting the girls out with me this season (crap). I love the tiller tamer. I have to hoist from the cabin top as my halyards haven't yet been lead aft (next project). More than once it was a circus hopping in and out of the cockpit trying to haul up the sails without a tiller tamer. Mac: No crap, it is plenty anoying when the main halyard hangs up on the steaming light. I've taken to using a short bungie to a starboard shroud to keep some tension on her until I'm ready to hoist her. Helps a lot. I also keep a velcro sail tie on the main to keep everything snug until I want to haul it up. Pull the sail tie, release the bungie and haul away. Robin: With the tiller tamer locked in and my H23 on a port tack (Kenyon mast with halyard exiting mast on port) I can hoist the head sail (I'm hanked on) and be back in the cockpit in considerably less than 30 seconds. As an option: (My kicker killed and wouldn't restart the other day...) You can hoist the head sail first as that can be done on any tack. Then, just get up a little speed and "heave to." Cool manuever, learned that from Sailing for Dummies! With her hove to and the head sail back-filled you can lock the rudder to leeward and hoist your main (or put in or take out a reef) pretty easily and safely from the cabin top. Then just release your windward sheet and trim the head sail and main to leeward and you are sailing.
Robin: I started using a tiller tamer just this season. I didn't used to sail single handed but I'm having a harder time getting the girls out with me this season (crap). I love the tiller tamer. I have to hoist from the cabin top as my halyards haven't yet been lead aft (next project). More than once it was a circus hopping in and out of the cockpit trying to haul up the sails without a tiller tamer. Mac: No crap, it is plenty anoying when the main halyard hangs up on the steaming light. I've taken to using a short bungie to a starboard shroud to keep some tension on her until I'm ready to hoist her. Helps a lot. I also keep a velcro sail tie on the main to keep everything snug until I want to haul it up. Pull the sail tie, release the bungie and haul away. Robin: With the tiller tamer locked in and my H23 on a port tack (Kenyon mast with halyard exiting mast on port) I can hoist the head sail (I'm hanked on) and be back in the cockpit in considerably less than 30 seconds. As an option: (My kicker killed and wouldn't restart the other day...) You can hoist the head sail first as that can be done on any tack. Then, just get up a little speed and "heave to." Cool manuever, learned that from Sailing for Dummies! With her hove to and the head sail back-filled you can lock the rudder to leeward and hoist your main (or put in or take out a reef) pretty easily and safely from the cabin top. Then just release your windward sheet and trim the head sail and main to leeward and you are sailing.
Robin, how I rig the bungee
Robin asked>" Dear Didereux, How did you get bungee cords to work for you? I tried them. Though quite stiff, they 'give', so that by the time I go forward and am raising the mainsail, the boat turns a bit and the next thing you know, we're 'sailing'. I have to run back and forth several times to get the mailsail and the jib raised between straightening out the tiller." I wrap the bungee completely around the tiller handle: that puts friction on it, if it slips just add another wrap(be sure and work with it for balance before leaving it. If the tiller is If the tiller is wrong on the git go you won't get two steps before the boat starts exploring). With the bungee the tiller shouldn't 'adjust' back and forth more than an inch or so. Unless the winds are very shifty and fairly heavy this rig allows for a minute or two to go forward and raise etc. g'Luk
Robin asked>" Dear Didereux, How did you get bungee cords to work for you? I tried them. Though quite stiff, they 'give', so that by the time I go forward and am raising the mainsail, the boat turns a bit and the next thing you know, we're 'sailing'. I have to run back and forth several times to get the mailsail and the jib raised between straightening out the tiller." I wrap the bungee completely around the tiller handle: that puts friction on it, if it slips just add another wrap(be sure and work with it for balance before leaving it. If the tiller is If the tiller is wrong on the git go you won't get two steps before the boat starts exploring). With the bungee the tiller shouldn't 'adjust' back and forth more than an inch or so. Unless the winds are very shifty and fairly heavy this rig allows for a minute or two to go forward and raise etc. g'Luk
Tiller Tamer (sort of)
When I am in need of this kind of thing, I use my length adjustable (twist to lock/unlock) tiller extension. This has a large rubber ball on the free end. When it is inserted into the steel tiller socket, I place the rubber ball end against the cockpit side below the gunwale. To lock the tiller straight ahead, use one heavy rubber bungee strap with hooks to hold the tiller hard against the rubber ball & cockpit side. The rubber ball will prevent any slippage. The cockpit side is sloped so for any minor adjustment in effective length of the extension, move the ball higher or lower or fore & aft. (don't bother with the twist lock) Works great for me. While using, no knobs to loosen/tighten, just move the rubber ball end slightly. Regards, Bob B.
When I am in need of this kind of thing, I use my length adjustable (twist to lock/unlock) tiller extension. This has a large rubber ball on the free end. When it is inserted into the steel tiller socket, I place the rubber ball end against the cockpit side below the gunwale. To lock the tiller straight ahead, use one heavy rubber bungee strap with hooks to hold the tiller hard against the rubber ball & cockpit side. The rubber ball will prevent any slippage. The cockpit side is sloped so for any minor adjustment in effective length of the extension, move the ball higher or lower or fore & aft. (don't bother with the twist lock) Works great for me. While using, no knobs to loosen/tighten, just move the rubber ball end slightly. Regards, Bob B.
OK, I'm still a newbie.
After reading Bob B., and checking the West Marine catalog, I realize what I have is a twist-lock tiller extension, not a Tiller Tamer. It came with the boat, thank you very much, so how was I to know? Excuse me now, I have to go check the tension on my side stays. Mac
After reading Bob B., and checking the West Marine catalog, I realize what I have is a twist-lock tiller extension, not a Tiller Tamer. It came with the boat, thank you very much, so how was I to know? Excuse me now, I have to go check the tension on my side stays. Mac
Thank you
Thanks for all the replies... I want to look at extensions now after reading your answers - of course, I assume that would involve drilling a hole in something and you KNOW how reluctant I am! But I'll figure it out. Thanks, all!
Thanks for all the replies... I want to look at extensions now after reading your answers - of course, I assume that would involve drilling a hole in something and you KNOW how reluctant I am! But I'll figure it out. Thanks, all!
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