Will It Run?
- Thread starter Jtcf78911
- Start date
Unfortunately, unless you have an engineless sailboat, we are all power boaters at some point. Sad but true.You're pretty brave typing "powerboat" on this site!!
Here are a few considerations....
1) If you have a flex vane sea water pump, it needs to be primed if dry.
2) Normally the depth of water (water line to intake) is needed to prime a dry pump.
3) Pressurizing your intake line, can force water into your engine through the exhaust riser when engine is not running.( watch out with Fake-A-Lake)
4) Never put your engine in gear. Your cutlass bearing will burn up.
5) Remember to let the engine thermostat OPEN by sufficient warm up.
6) Flow rates of most pumps are based on engine RPM and are sized by engine Horsepower.
7) Some I haven't thought of....
Jim...
PS: I can design you a system by private message, I have been thinking of a way to clean my engine sea water flow system while in berth.
OOPs, I bought my first diesel powered sailboat (ODay 272LE) a few months ago. Davidsailor26 mentioned not putting the boat in gear on the hard because it will destroy the cutlass bearing. I ran my diesel in gear for a few minutes on the hard. I had the cooling hoses hooked up correctly but I wasn't aware of a cutlass bearing issue nor did I understand that the stuffing box needed to be wet. Do you think that about 5 -10 minutes running in gear was enough to case any damage to the cutlass bearing or stuffing box packing material?
Sounds like you either have a clogged fuel system, bad fuel, air in the system or a combination of them. I would first remove the fuel line from the primary filter to check for an adequate flow and for water in the fuel. Just allow some to fill up a small glass jar. Have seen a fouled fuel cap gasket allow rain or wash water into the tank. Next bleed the system thoroughly and with good and clear fuel flow and no air the engine should start and run fairly well. If it does you are halfway there. Let the engine sit and come back next week and see if it again starts and runs the same. If it does not you have a small leak. I would inspect all the fuel lines and connections to include the pump and bleed screws for a fuel leak; when engine runs fuel leaks out when engine stops air leaks in. Real small leaks are hard to detect but their effects take longer time to surface. If it starts running rough a few weeks down the line you will need to bleed the air out again and at that time consider replacing fuel hoses and all the lines connectors. If your problem is dirty fuel or poor flow you will need to clean the tank and get fresh fuel. You could still run the engine by connecting a portable fuel tank like those used for outboard motors while you work on the large tank.
Thanks. Really not sure what kind of water pump I have. From the looks of it I'd guess it was the original installed on this 1985 universal M12. Oldie but goodie. Glad to hear what you've been dreaming up for your boat...
The pump on ours (same year and model) was able to self-prime when we used a short hose pulling from a bucket just in front of the engine. Not sure what length of hose or lift that would work for. Definitely check the water flow out the exhaust when you start it. 1 or 2 seconds of low flow may be ok but it shouldn't be more than that.
Doing this is just like using your thru hull and will work fine since it provides the same "head" (engineering term) to the pump, although it's always better to see if you can put the bucket in the cockpit. No reason you can't get a long er hose, right? Doesn't everybody have lengths of different size hoses stored on their boats?
First, I've found the Universals WAY easier to bleed than the Yanmars! In fact, if you get a bit of air in, they will cough and sputter a bit, then clear by themselves (although I'm talking about 3-cyl - I believe the 12 hp may be 1-cyl which might not work that way).
About the water thing: why not use a bucket, but fill the bucket with a hose as the engine is running? A few adjustments on the hose tap should keep the bucket about 1/2 full... Oh and remember the stuffingbox needs water to lubricate, so be careful about putting the engine in gear.
About the rough running: on a diesel, it's ALWAYS about the fuel! (OK I've heard some have problems with exhaust blockage, but I've never experienced it). After you've eliminated contaminated fuel (water?) and blocked filters, you may have to look at injectors and high-pressure pump.
druid
About the water thing: why not use a bucket, but fill the bucket with a hose as the engine is running? A few adjustments on the hose tap should keep the bucket about 1/2 full... Oh and remember the stuffingbox needs water to lubricate, so be careful about putting the engine in gear.
About the rough running: on a diesel, it's ALWAYS about the fuel! (OK I've heard some have problems with exhaust blockage, but I've never experienced it). After you've eliminated contaminated fuel (water?) and blocked filters, you may have to look at injectors and high-pressure pump.
druid