I'm getting around to fixing the head. I figure all the seals are shot and am not going to bother with trying to figure out what's wrong with the current head. I'd like to put a Raritan SuperFlush in, but don't know if the discharge will physically fit. The Jabsco is nestled quite nicely as it is. First off, if the 90 deg elbow on the Raritan discharge can't be flipped and pointed up, it's a no go. The discharge protrudes 2" further back, but is higher so I think would work. All other dimensions I believe would work, even with the large version. What do yall think?
Will a Raritan fit? Hunter 31
- Thread starter bonkle
- Start date
After extensive research (scrolling past the page showing dimensions), I found a schematic which suggests that you are correct . There's also a straight outlet that can be installed. I'm betting that this will fit. When the Jabsco discharge is positioned up, it is a good deal longer than down. On top of that, it appears that the Raritan discharge is higher. I'm going to ask the local shop if they'll accept a return if my fit-up doesn't pan out.
You've got it made if they will agree to that. No problem with the bolts in the base as they're an exact match to the Jabsco. Who patent infringed on who ?
Without research, I'm guessing that Jabsco's pattent expired and became a public design (that's a thing right?). I'm not sure how recently this model came out, but the only change on the current model of Raritan was adjusting those mounting bolts to be a direct replacement for boats that came with a Jabsco. Maybe that has nothing to do with it cause my pump appears to be a PAR... all the other words are unintelligible.
No go on the return. I'll call Ratiran and hope for some input on here.
10-12 years ago I replaced my Jabsco with a Raritan PHII model at that time, had to fill old holes and redrill. Recently replaced with a Raritan superflush and had to fill the old "new" holes and redrill the originals. The elbow will rotate thru 360 degrees. If a Jabsco fit I would think the Raritan will also.
I emailed Raritan about it and got a reply in 46 minutes. That’s an exceptional turnaround time! Answer is 3.25”
What's the height on your PAR.
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I find it incredible that your pump is a PAR. From the shots you first posted, I was sure that was a Jabsco. What as incestuous lifestyle these marine head manufacturers lead
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No one infringed on anyone else's patent. Raritan introduced the PHII marine toilet 1983...it is and has consistently been rated the top rated manual toilet ever since. in 1992 hey made minor changes to the PHII pump, requiring different rebuild kits for the pre-'92 version and the version made since. A few years ago they redesigned ONLY the base to make the mounting bolt pattern a match for Jabsco and most other manual toilets and give it a bit sleeker look and renamed it "PH SuperFlush." The pump is still the tried and true PHII.
--Peggie
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Nothng "incestuous" about it...Par was an early Jabsco model in the '70s and '80s. So was Bryden Boy...a Canadian version made under a licensing agreement with Jabsco (Bryden folded in 1984). Until the late '90s Jabsco offered a "universal" service kit that fit both of those, Jabsco brand manual toilets AND the Mansfield/SeaLand 751 and 752, which SeaLand Technology discontinued only about a year or two after they acquired the marine toilet division of Mansfield Plumbing in1984 to get the VacuFlush, which Mansfield had introduced in 1978.
If my memory still works, the late '90s was about when Jabsco introduced their "Twist 'n Lock" version.
If any part of bonkle's toilet is still Par, it can only be the base or maybe the bowl or the boat was sitting for at least 20 years 'cuz no Par/Jabsco pump could last 30-40 years in service...you wouldn't be able to find any parts to fit it after Jabsco discontinued their "universal" kit.
--Peggie
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bonkle....you might consider doing some serious cleaning before installing the new toilet and replacing the hoses too. Note that the flush water inlet fitting is on the FRONT of the PHII pump, so your intake line will have to be a bit longer than the one to your current toilet. Raritan SaniFlex RaritanSaniFlex hose is top rated, has a 10 yr warranty against odor permeation and has the added advantage of being so flexible it can be bent almost as tight as a hairpin without kinking, which makes replacing hoses a LOT easier job on most boats.
Don't be spooked by the list price...Defender has 1" for about $10/ft, 1.5" for about $11/ft.
Raritan Sani / Flex Sanitation Hose at Defender Spend the money for it, if you only want to do this job every 10 years...cheap hose will start to stink in just a few years...it did on one of my own boats in about 90 days!
You'll need 3/4" for the intake line, 5/8" for the vent line....Shields or Trident flexible PVC #148 (the cheap stuff) is ok for those.
--Peggie
Don't be spooked by the list price...Defender has 1" for about $10/ft, 1.5" for about $11/ft.
Raritan Sani / Flex Sanitation Hose at Defender Spend the money for it, if you only want to do this job every 10 years...cheap hose will start to stink in just a few years...it did on one of my own boats in about 90 days!
You'll need 3/4" for the intake line, 5/8" for the vent line....Shields or Trident flexible PVC #148 (the cheap stuff) is ok for those.
--Peggie
yes. We started to clean, but decided to just wait till the toilet is out to start scrubbing.
At 3.25” from the floor, I have a tad over 7” to the back. I’m going to go for it. The household size’s inlet to the bowl protrudes too far back, but the marine size will fit.
Are you saying your PAR is the same height as the PH Superflush at 3.25" ?
I notice the PAR slopes down at the pump exit. With the Superflush having a horizontal discharge from the pump, looks like you're safe.
I notice the PAR slopes down at the pump exit. With the Superflush having a horizontal discharge from the pump, looks like you're safe.
The par is about 3,1/8” to the bolts on the flange. I’m trying to track down a marine size though. I’ve forum a couple for 300-320, but one is a household and the other doesn’t say. Waiting for a reply from the site.
Just curious. For cruising sailers, how much use does the head get? I really can’t imagine any substantial business getting done in that tiny room… especially with any kind of wave action. I have a hard enough time wedging myself in there while docked in the marina. I think I’d rather go for a swim should the need arise. I’m guessing that the most common scenario is to plan around port calls. The main reason I’m getting the head up to snuff is for the wife on longer outings. I kinda just assumed we would ignore its existence, but that was definitely wrong.
There is a sailor's tale that more crew/skippers have fallen overboard trying to relieve themselves off the stern.
May I point everyone to my head plumbing thread? I figured it could be it's own rather than posting here. All tips graciously received!
Head (toilet of course) plumbing help
I think I've identified what is going on in this system but want to double check with yall. Picture zero (I already labled something one, and I'm not going back to change it :P) is an overview of the area. 1 & 2 are behind the head. Discharge routs forward (abow? bowward?) 3 is looking toward...
forums.sailboatowners.com
99% of those who've fallen overboard and drowned have been guys fishing alone in an open boat on inland waters, not wearing a PFD. It's actually kinda hard to fall overboard from the cockpit of sailboat 'cuz you'd have to climb up onto gunwale to fall overboard using the lee rail or even the transom unless the boat has an open transom.