Why do I get incoming water in 'DRY' position?

[Rich Stidger]

I have a Jabsco 290xx type toilet on my Hunter 40.5 that is used extensively as original equipment. I lube it regularily and check/replace the valves as required.However, when the wet-dry lever is in the 'dry' position, I find that inlet water continues to be pumped in instead of just pumping out the bowl. Not as much comes in as in the wet position, but still a significant amount. I have replaced the inlet valves/gasket assembly and this has helped a little but I still have water entering unless I pump very slowly.What am I not understanding about this? Is there some other part that is worn? Everything else looks OK- the valve seats and operating level both look OK.The incoming water is clearly seawater and not the waste water returning. An pkexplaination of how the inlet valves work with the wet/dry lever would be helpful.

 

[Rick D]

Valve

I have had some bad valves back when I used to O/H the pumps. I gave up and just put a new pump assembly in. Rick D.PS: I just installed my new poly tank from Triple M Plastics. I'm going to post something in the forums about it when I get some time.

 

[Peggie Hall/HeadMistress]

Wet/dry valve isn't a valve...

It's just a little "gate" (Jabsco calls it a "cam" in their drawing) that the lever swings to block or unblock the flow of flush water. Apparently the lever isn't moving the one in your toilet far enough to completely block off the incoming water any more. Which, btw, is a perfect illustration of why relying on the wet/dry valve instead of closing the seacock when you leave the boat is a good way to sink a boat in its slip...and why a vented loop is needed in the intake. I wouldn't put any money into the toilet...replace it. If you want to spend $100 every couple of years to keep a $100 toilet working, it's your money. But if it were mine, I'd spend a bit more for a toilet that'll last at least 20 years if it's just kept lubricated and rebuilt every 5-6 years...and has a full "barrel" wet/dry mechanism instead of just a flimsy little gate. The Raritan PH II for about $250 has been rated the best manual toilet <$500 for more than 2 decades.

 

[Rob19574]

Plumb into your sink drain

Rick -I put a T in the sink drain that shares the same seacock as the inlet for the head line. I rarely open the salt-water intake (the seacock) but instead just make sure to first wash my hands and then pump the head. The sink water is recyled into the toilet - this does 2 things: eliminates the need to deal with that seacock and reduces head-odor as saltwater contains microbes that significantly add to the odor problem of on-board head systems. Just make sure you T close to the inlet to avoid sucking air.Try my set-up - it works great and is hassel free!

 

[Peggie Hall/HeadMistress]

Might not solve his problem, Rick...

If he tees into the sink drain below the waterline, unless he cures the leaking wet/dry "valve," sea water will still get into his bowl when the head sink drain thru-hull is open. The REAL beauty of teeing into the head sink drain is, it allows you to flush using sea water--thus conserving fresh water--and then be able to flush all the sea water out of the system by closing the seacock and flushing with a sinkful of CLEAN fresh water. That's a lot easier than having to constantly fill the sink to flush the toilet, which doesn't do any more to prevent sea water odors than flushing it out before the boat sits.

 

[Rob19574]

Agree

yes - true Peggy. Most of my sailing consists of either day-sails or weekenders. Anything longer than that I open the saltwater line for the head to conserve fresh water. I also keep my boat at a dock and have plenty of access to fresh water.Rob