Who uses an anchor roller?

[Leeward Rail]

I don't see a reason why the C22 couldn't have a mini bowsprit to support a larger roller.
With a large plate made to bolt to the top of the bow and a support down to the hull it would probably be strong enough.

JudyB has a custom one, on her Catalina 27 for a spinnaker.
http://www.blumhorst.com/catalina27/bowsprit.htm

No need to change the rig, if it's just for an anchor.
On Judy's boat, the upper plate would be the same as putting a plate under the existing one on the C22.
That's said, I'm guessing that you'd probably have to make the hull plate large enough to spread load under the pulpit, so that it can handle the loads of a storm at anchor.

 

[caguy]

On my old Mac 25 the PO welded the forestay chain plate to the center of the anchor roller. The anchor shank lay along side that. I held a Danforth when I bought it but switched it out to a claw. I be live there was already a hole in the shank but I drilled a hole in the channel to pin it for travel.
On the C-27 I keep the anchor in place with a lanyard tied to the back bow pulpit stanchions.
I slides up and down with some resistance. I have a carabiner that I hook to the anchor shank. When I slide the tied end down the stanchions it tightens up the lanyard. When I slide it up it loosens the lanyard so I can detach the carabiner. I leave the chain attached.

 

[Gene Neill]

Okay, well the CD roller just won't cut it on this boat. It's just too dang short.

Problem #1: the anchor cannot sit snugly on the roller, with the roller seated in the crotch of the shank and flukes, without the flukes digging into the hull. The anchor has to sit forward about 2" before the bow is safe from being ravaged by the flukes.

Problem #2: Even with the anchor sitting 2" further forward than it should be, the shank lies on top of the locker cover, preventing it from being opened without unpinning the anchor and moving it even further forward.

Problem #3: Positioning the anchor further forward this way shifts it's center of balance past the tipping point, meaning the anchor will fall off the roller instantly if something isn't holding down the shank. Hence the short little bungee cord in the pic above.

All in all, it looks cool but is very tricky and time consuming to deploy, especially without gouging the bow. I guess what I have to do is buy a much longer roller and modify it to fit. It would need to place the actual roller 2" forward of course, and then for additional strength it would need to extend aft about 2" to the little "ramp" which goes down into the locker, and then - since it's gotta be a custom job anyway - it should bend and extend down that ramp a couple inches. Like this (don't laugh at my childlike Paint job dammit):

Hopefully all that makes sense! Now to find the right roller and somebody to do the cutting/bending/drilling.

BTW, the anchor pictured is a Danforth "Hooker 8".

 

[CaptDon01]

All I can say is my Danforth works perfectly in my anchor roller from Catalina Direct, even my Lewmar claw anchor fits perfect, sailing, or while trailering. I did drill a hole in the shanks of both anchors for the securing pin to fit through. Maybe a different anchor would be the solution and keep this anchor for a spare,(a proper cruiser always has a spare). We carry one in the anchor roller, one in an anchor bag in the forward storage below where a V-berth should be, and a third in the stern lazarette.

Don

 

[topcat0399]

I like it that the anchor falls right off the roller if the rode isnt belayed. That way I can just haul a long bight of anchor rode back along the side deck to the cockpit and cleat it off. When solo let go and back up to anchor. To get back off its often just a reverse process.

 

[CaptDon01]

I like it that the anchor falls right off the roller if the rode isnt belayed. That way I can just haul a long bight of anchor rode back along the side deck to the cockpit and cleat it off. When solo let go and back up to anchor. To get back off its often just a reverse process.

Usually when we're setting the anchor, my wife is forward, pulls the pin, and lets the anchor fall. She'll secure the rode temporarily while I back the boat to set the anchor, then we'll make a final securing of the rode.

When we depart our anchorage, The engine will be in neutral and I'll recover the anchor, standing up and pulling the rode over the roller. This squeezes most of the water out and I simply drop the rode into the anchor locker. Once the anchor is free, I'll clean it and stow it on the roller while my wife put the outboard in gear and steers the boat away from the anchorage.

The anchor roller actually works well, plus it adds to the "cool factor", which is actually the most important thing.....

Don

 

[Gene Neill]

All I can say is my Danforth works perfectly in my anchor roller from Catalina Direct, even my Lewmar claw anchor fits perfect, sailing, or while trailering.

Don

Yes, that puzzled me greatly. I had your image saved, and was clicking back and forth between it and mine, trying to figure out why. I think the answer is simple though: our boats are different! Take a look at these two pics side by side:

I'm pretty sure the anchors are the same (Danforth 8), but your Mk II seems to have a sharper prow angle, in addition to the deck having about an inch of overhang. Thus, your flukes contact the rubrail before they could ever contact the hull. If you slide my anchor aft, the first thing it comes in contact with is the flukes hitting the hull.

Topcat, good point about the anchor tipping off on its own. But don't you use any chain? If I deployed the way you describe, I'd have 20' of chain rattling across the deck!

 

[Leeward Rail]

Don's boat in the photo is a mk2.

But also... looking at the angle of the flukes in the photos, it appears that the anchor flukes on Don's boat can angle more.

Edit: hmm.. What about grinding the notch so the flukes can hinge more ? would that compromise it's strength too much or it's ability to set ?

Time to get the tape measures out.

Gene: It would be simple to add a additional metal skuff plate to protect the fiberglass as the anchor dropped. As has been noted, that's really how it should work anyhow. Maybe that's an option instead of making a complete roller ?

That said I think the ultimate solution is to make a pseudo larger bowsprit/roller with a brace against the bow and running back on the deck, so it's really strong. A heavier anchor and chain in strong winds at night would put some serious loads on a longer roller, and I'm not sure simply extending it back into the anchor locker would be enough ? Maybe I'm wrong ?
Any engineers around ?

P.S. can you guys figure this out asap. I have a CD roller and want to install it tomorrow.

P.P.S. Removing/installing the bolts, so you can install that roller is a real PITA on the New style C22. Could they have made the access cover any smaller ? If anyone does this, they may need to recruit someone with small hands. The risk of dropping hardware inside the hull is high too.

 

[Gene Neill]

P.S. can you guys figure this out asap. I have a CD roller and want to install it tomorrow.

Install it today, I need some more brainpower on this problem!!

Seriously though ... you're obviously a smart and resourceful guy. I've already come to my conclusion; I can't wait to hear yours.

 

[Leeward Rail]

Install it today, I need some more brainpower on this problem!!

Seriously though ... you're obviously a smart and resourceful guy. I've already come to my conclusion; I can't wait to hear yours.

Just goes to show how, much on the internet is misleading.

Not sure how much help I'll be. The boat came with a danforth S600 which is smaller than yours, if I remember right. Though, I want something bigger. At the very least the boat needs more chain.

Holes have been potted and just waiting on the the epoxy to cure.

 

[Gene Neill]

I believe our anchors (Don's too, if I'm not mistaken) are at least virtually identical. Mine is a "Super Hooker 8", which weighs nine pounds, same as your S600. Published measurements are also identical at 24"/18.25"/12", and apparently they're both made by Tiedown. I don't know what the design difference between them is, but your S600 does have an advertised holding power of 600 lbs, whereas mine is listed at 480. FWIW, my fluke angle is 32 degrees, as measured by me, but I can't find that data on yours. I have read that this is the optimum angle, and it was on the internet so I know it's true. LOL

 

[allen-deckard]

Don't want to throw salt into a wounded thread and I don't know what your anchoring into but I LOVE my plow anchor. Never had any luck with the Danforth I had worked as long as it set but had issues with certain bottoms.

Never have had an issue with my plow anchor I got on ebay for a super cheep steal. Polished 10# stainless with chain rode and 200' of line for $50 and was new.

Anyway point being is it sits a lot shorter than your Danforth but not sure about angles and such with the roller if it would be better or wouldn't fit at all since I don't have one.

just a thought.

 

[CloudDiver]

I've been watching this with great interest. I have the CD anchor roller and it will probably get bedded and bolted down long before I get a new anchor to mount on it.

That said, my boat came with a Danforth, I believe it is 14 lb but I'm not sure. I planned to buy a new Delta Lewmar and use the Danforth as a back up. I would love to make my own from stainless but my plasma cutter probably wont cut the thickness of stainless needed for the shank. Anyway, I keep looking on CL for a used anchor of the right size to pop up. On way or the other, I will have to make it work since I won't be removing the anchor roller once it is set in place.

 

[Leeward Rail]

...I won't be removing the anchor roller once it is set in place.

I have a hard time believing that... You like pimping your boat. Or are you using 5200 ?

Besides, you, of all of us, would be good at coming up with a great system

Edit: FWIW We seem to be in agreement that it would be nice to have a bigger Delta or similar and use the Danforth as a backup.

 

[T_Cat]

I have a few questions on this old thread.
Do you have to fill and drill new holes for the tang on the stem fitting to compensate for the thickness of the bow roller plate?
Does the tang bolts have a backing plate or are they screws?

Thanks in advance.

Russ

 

[CaptDon01]

I have a few questions on this old thread.
Do you have to fill and drill new holes for the tang on the stem fitting to compensate for the thickness of the bow roller plate?
Does the tang bolts have a backing plate or are they screws?

Thanks in advance.

Russ

T_Cat......... Yes, the tang mounting hole is affected, but only slightly. The tang originally is through bolted, and when reinstalled, I installed a stainless steel fender washer that when tightened, took on a slightly curved status.

Don

 

[T_Cat]

T_Cat......... Yes, the tang mounting hole is affected, but only slightly. The tang originally is through bolted, and when reinstalled, I installed a stainless steel fender washer that when tightened, took on a slightly curved status.

Don

+1
Thanks Don for the quick response...

 

[centerline]

a well built and fit anchor roller is well worth the cost as well as a big time saver if you anchor out a lot.
but unless its custom built, its very difficult to fine one that will work as well as it should....
I have always built my own and have made them long and wide enough to stow any common style of anchor on them.... commonly the "affordable" rollors that you find are too short, and either wont stow the anchor, or will let the anchor swing and bang into the boat as it is being drawn out of the water and before it even get to the roller.

you cant go wrong by installing a good anchor roller and storage system, but then just a simple, short mounted little roller will help getting the anchor to the surface, to where the work begins trying to get it aboard and stowing it without marring the boat.

personally, I wouldnt own a boat without one..... for any longer than it takes to build and install it.

 

[Gene Neill]

I have a few questions on this old thread.
Do you have to fill and drill new holes for the tang on the stem fitting to compensate for the thickness of the bow roller plate?
Does the tang bolts have a backing plate or are they screws?

Thanks in advance.

Russ

Your answer begins in post #69 of this thread: http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/am-i-sick.173642/page-4
Installing that roller was a monstrous PITA, and it cost a fortune. But I sure do love it. I'm with Centerline, I really don't want to own a boat without one.

 

[CaptDon01]

Here is a photo from last weeks cruise that shows the anchor roller from Catalina Direct mounted on the bow of our MK-II version with a Danforth #8 stowed. I also have a Lewmar plow that stows on the anchor roller also. It wasn't a difficult job on the MK-II, and my friend just ordered one so we'll get to also install one on his new design version probably next week. I'll take some photos of the process for future reference.

Don