Who likes teak decks?

[Kings Gambit]

When I bought the 1999 Bavaria in 2004 I was concerned about the maintenance of its teak decks. Surveyer said to wash often w/ clean seawater & brush across the lay of the deck. I did that, but also applied oxalic acid (teak brightener) periodically. OA brightens the teak OK, but evidently erodes the caulk such that by 2006 or so I had to have the boat recaulked w/teak caulking. Since then, only seawater or fresh; no OA or other chemicals. Twelve years now and the caulking is starting to break up in some spots, just as before. I fear another expensive repair is on the way and will arrive within a year or so. I love the decks w/teak. I’m considering patching only the areas that are breaking up; namely, where we step to enter the cockpit. I think I might be able to do a “small” job like that w/o making a total mess of it. Teak caulk is very smelly, sticky, and, frankly, difficult and ugly to work with. Any suggestions or recommendations?

 

[rgranger]

I have no first hand experience but wonder about synthetic alternatives. I’m thinking about the faux filler they now use in log homes?

 

[LeslieTroyer]

Boat works today has an episode on doing calming of teak decks. Might want to check it out.

 

[Gunni]

I helped a buddy do this job years ago on a Hans Christian. Those 3 days were the longest 3 months of boat work I ever did! The leaking cabin top teak decking was saturating the cabin coring.

We used the Fein tool to remove and prep the caulking. Big labor saver. I was told that 20 years is the lifetime for a laminated teak deck. That said, I would take the opportunity to have the teak removed and the deck glassed. I saw an Islander that was professionally done and it looked great. Cost the guy $20K. By the way, the boat I worked on was put up for sale 8 years later, the aging teak deck was a major turnoff for prospective buyers.

 

[dlochner]

The November/December issue of Good Old Boat was just released minutes ago. There is an article on repairing teak decks. Haven't read it yet.

I recall reading an article by John Kretschmer about replacing the teak decks on his boat. I think it was in Sailing Magazine. I wasn't able to find it quickly, you may have better luck.

If I was in the market for a new boat, I wouldn't go near a boat with a teak deck. They look great and are a great non-skid surface, I have neither the time nor money to maintain them. I was thinking otherwise and then I looked at my Mega-Millions ticket.....

 

[Kings Gambit]

A friend of mine w/ a 1980's version Swan just pulled his teak earlier this year and had the deck glassed as Gunni mentioned. He swears by it as a great improvement. I dunno, however. Overall, the teak itself still looks good and remains well attached except for a couple of spots in the cockpit. Of course, if the caulking is allowed to deteriorate it probably will start to de-laminate if water settles in the grooves and stays there, etc. What's the difference btw spending that $20K to "fix it", or taking a $20K hit on resale? Full boat re-caulking the last time cost about $6K; took a week, two guys on the job.

 

[dlochner]

What's the difference btw spending $20K to "fix it", or taking a $20K hit on resale? Re-caulking the last time cost about $6K.

It is not just the cost, it is the marketability. People hear teak decks and tell the broker, "How attractive, now what about this boat over here with Kiwi Grip?"

 

[Jackdaw]

What's the difference btw spending that $20K to "fix it", or taking a $20K hit on resale?

Beyond the satisfaction of your own boat being properly maintained, you ALWAYS get dinged for existing defects at a level much more then the expected repair cost would be. Anytime I see something that needs addressing in a boat, I double the expected cost and take it off the price. Why? First to account for any unexpected things that might be found during the repair, and second to account for its MY time that gets interrupted by a defect that exists that the current owner should have addressed. Most brokers will say the same thing.

 

[Kings Gambit]

I read your meaning as: "If it costs $?K to fix it, but you don't fix it, it'll cost you 2 x $?K when you try to sell the boat un-fixed." I would agree in principle. As I and others have noted here often, as well as it being plainly obvious, it's always a buyers' market out there for "pre-owned" boats. You fix it, or it likely does not get sold for its "true market value", whatever that is.

 

[Rick D]

I have a former boat neighbor in AB who has brought back a couple of Swans. Part of that, of course, involved decks. I watched him rework his current boat. Took about six weeks full time as I recall. If you want e-mail contact info, PM me and I'll pass it along. BTW, he removed two decks as I recall. One was from an Aussie boat and another from a GB, so he knows both sides.

 

[Kings Gambit]

I have a former boat neighbor in AB who has brought back a couple of Swans. Part of that, of course, involved decks. I watched him rework his current boat. Took about six weeks full time as I recall. If you want e-mail contact info, PM me and I'll pass it along. BTW, he removed two decks as I recall. One was from an Aussie boat and another from a GB, so he knows both sides.

OK, thanks!

 

[Gunni]

I don’t know anything about the SoCal market but around here the older Asian teak queens just don’t sell. With yard labor rates at $100/hour the math does not work. That HC sat on the market for YEARS, until a merchant mariner bought it and had it delivered back to Asia where he could get boat work done at a much lower rate. A saw a caulking job done on another HC recently, the jackleg “contractor” made a mess of the job, had no idea what he was doing. So it will be done twice.

Here is the Cruising World story of Kretschmer (Dave was referring to) doing his teak deck replacement:
https://www.cruisingworld.com/replacing-teak-decks-is-monumental-job

 

[capta]

I LOVE/HATE teak decks. They are gorgeous and really make a boat look sharp when they are in good condition, but I wouldn't have them on any boat I owned, again! First and foremost, they are HOT to walk on in the sun and even more so in the tropics.
My first big boat, a Lester Stone, Phill Rhodes ocean racer had REAL teak decks (no plywood underneath) and when they began to leak, I recaulked every single seam on that 49-foot boat. Reefed each one out, added cotton where needed and caulked each seam; talk about blisters! And I had to make my own tools because those tools were no longer manufactured. Luckily for me, my sailing teachers were old Cape Horners who knew all about teak and what tools were needed.
When I was crew on the Wanderer (1893) all hands turned out once a month and on hands and knees we holystoned (griddle blocks) and oiled the teak decks with a special mixture of boiled linseed oil and kerosene. And there was the continuous calking of those decks as well.
Yep, I love/hate teak decks!

 

[Gunni]

This here thread requires a caption contest!

Join the Navy, see the...deck.

 

[Kings Gambit]

Get 'em wet/keep 'em wet and they are not so hot. Also, no one gets to go, or be, on deck bare-footed on my boat while at sea except occasionally when at anchor. But then, I don't live aboard. I, of course, do get push-back from some guests and crew who like to go bare footin'. I simply invoke the old adage. Rule No. 1: "The Captain is always right." Rule No. 2--"Refer to Rule No. 1."

 

[capta]

Get 'em wet/keep 'em wet and they are not so hot. Also, no one gets to go, or be, on deck bare-footed on my boat while at sea except occasionally when at anchor. But then, I don't live aboard. I, of course, do get push-back from some guests and crew who like to go bare footin'. I simply invoke the old adage. Rule No. 1: "The Captain is always right." Rule No. 2--"Refer to Rule No. 1."

Why this rule? I've never been comfortable wearing shoes or boots aboard unless its cold.

 

[Kings Gambit]

I don’t know anything about the SoCal market but around here the older Asian teak queens just don’t sell. With yard labor rates at $100/hour the math does not work. That HC sat on the market for YEARS, until a merchant mariner bought it and had it delivered back to Asia where he could get boat work done at a much lower rate. A saw a caulking job done on another HC recently, the jackleg “contractor” made a mess of the job, had no idea what he was doing. So it will be done twice.

As I'm sure you know, the boat was built in Germany, and the teak is thin, backed by 1/4" marine ply, and "glued" to the deck. So, not at all in the class of the boats you refer to, such as HC. I do not see as many of these newer, European production-type boats with teak as in previous years. Most of the guys w/ the older Asian-built teak queens, as you call them, do complain about their "teak deck" issue. The problem is lack of maintenance over the life of the boat, They may have gotten the unrepaired, discounted sale price, and then spent nothing to repair the boat. Mostly "slip-sailors" who rarely leave the slip, so rarely or never have boarding seas to leak through when the deck itself is a teak construction (in which case you have to fix it or risk going down at some point from flooding) as Capta described.

 

[Justin_NSA]

 

[Kings Gambit]

Laced shoes or sandals that have a heel strap. I don't like the loafer-type boat shoes of Sperry fame. Tennis shoes much better. Reason--avoid stubbed or broken toes or foot otherwise injured. Also, to use the mast step-up one needs shoes.

 

[Roland5048]

When I was crew on the Wanderer (1893)

Hey, Capta, just how old are you, anyway?

Why this rule? I've never been comfortable wearing shoes or boots aboard unless its cold.

I agree. Except for a couple of times, I haven't put on a real pair of shoes since I retired in '10. I live in my sandals, (not flip-flops), full time but take them off on the boat. Feel more secure being able to feel the deck under my feet. Of course, always three points of contact and watch those toes.