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line?
Should I just have another genoa halyard run? 3/8 or 5/16? A shackle I suppose too,, but I looking for something to rig that would be less expensive. Any ideas?
Should I just have another genoa halyard run? 3/8 or 5/16? A shackle I suppose too,, but I looking for something to rig that would be less expensive. Any ideas?
Deploying whisker pole
Vic you certainly have a valid point. We sometimes use and after and fore guy too depending on the strength of the winds. If you round up unannounced these are useful because it keeps one from going up to the foredeck immediately. We use our "topping lift" because it holds the pole up when deploying, stowing. I have a rigid vang so I dont need it to hold my boom up. Dont really care what you call the line you run to it... it just happens to be something we dont use unless its attached as a safety halyard when going up the mast. If you look at the forespar website, the video shows a pretty economical way to deploy your whisker pole when shorthanded. Tis just a way to do it. Cheers
Vic you certainly have a valid point. We sometimes use and after and fore guy too depending on the strength of the winds. If you round up unannounced these are useful because it keeps one from going up to the foredeck immediately. We use our "topping lift" because it holds the pole up when deploying, stowing. I have a rigid vang so I dont need it to hold my boom up. Dont really care what you call the line you run to it... it just happens to be something we dont use unless its attached as a safety halyard when going up the mast. If you look at the forespar website, the video shows a pretty economical way to deploy your whisker pole when shorthanded. Tis just a way to do it. Cheers
topping lift set up....
You can rig topping lift fairly cheaply with 1/4 line, an inexpensive snap hook, and a clam or horn cleat on the mast. Fix a swivel block to the mast with a 4 hole stainless eyestrap a foot or so above the steaming light. Check the online chandleries for parts. For a heavier application, you could fix a "mast hound" rather than the eyestrap. If you need additional purchase and a winch is not handy, you can add a block to the snap hook end and double the line back to the mast block (you'll need a single with a becket on the mast). If you want to put the purchase on the cleat end, insert a small single block with becket to a shortened line, attach the rest of the line to the becket, run it down to a cheek block then back up through the inserted single block, then down to your mast cleat. The vertical distance between the line block and the mast's cheek block will be the amount of lift you will have on the topping lift. BTW it is perfectly normal to use a topping lift on the whisker pole, especially in light air. I also recommend you rig a foreguy run through a block on the foredeck that will pull the pole down and forward. This will enable you to control how far back the pole will travel, keeping it off the shrouds, and will prevent the pole from bouncing up and down.
You can rig topping lift fairly cheaply with 1/4 line, an inexpensive snap hook, and a clam or horn cleat on the mast. Fix a swivel block to the mast with a 4 hole stainless eyestrap a foot or so above the steaming light. Check the online chandleries for parts. For a heavier application, you could fix a "mast hound" rather than the eyestrap. If you need additional purchase and a winch is not handy, you can add a block to the snap hook end and double the line back to the mast block (you'll need a single with a becket on the mast). If you want to put the purchase on the cleat end, insert a small single block with becket to a shortened line, attach the rest of the line to the becket, run it down to a cheek block then back up through the inserted single block, then down to your mast cleat. The vertical distance between the line block and the mast's cheek block will be the amount of lift you will have on the topping lift. BTW it is perfectly normal to use a topping lift on the whisker pole, especially in light air. I also recommend you rig a foreguy run through a block on the foredeck that will pull the pole down and forward. This will enable you to control how far back the pole will travel, keeping it off the shrouds, and will prevent the pole from bouncing up and down.
Actually, I have been using my Spin pole ...
as a whisker pole this winter ... complete with topping lift and down haul both led back to the cockpit. Some of the guys keep saying that most people with a whisker pole extend it too far making the jib too flat ... Only thing I don't like about a whisker pole is they are pretty fragile in decent wind and waves with decent boat motion. Vic "Seven"
as a whisker pole this winter ... complete with topping lift and down haul both led back to the cockpit. Some of the guys keep saying that most people with a whisker pole extend it too far making the jib too flat ... Only thing I don't like about a whisker pole is they are pretty fragile in decent wind and waves with decent boat motion. Vic "Seven"
Vic
A whisker pole needs to be extended when the pole is pushed forward to keep the sail open and breathing. As the pole moves back it can be shortened to 'J' or spinnaker pole length. If a pole lift and downhaul are used in conjunction with a sheet this will keep the pole fixed in location with respect to the boat. These three lines anchor the pole at whatever location you set so that no matter the waves or motion of the boat the pole is always fixed in position. Trimming will of course require adjustments of all lines but once set will again lock the pole in place.
A whisker pole needs to be extended when the pole is pushed forward to keep the sail open and breathing. As the pole moves back it can be shortened to 'J' or spinnaker pole length. If a pole lift and downhaul are used in conjunction with a sheet this will keep the pole fixed in location with respect to the boat. These three lines anchor the pole at whatever location you set so that no matter the waves or motion of the boat the pole is always fixed in position. Trimming will of course require adjustments of all lines but once set will again lock the pole in place.
Vic I would think my forespar Whisker is stressed for loads on a forsail that it is designed to fit. I do extend it and then set the length for the particular wind which counts if you are racing. The jib sometimes should be flat or should be full depending on the wind of course. I have had it out in 20 knots apparent under shortened mainsail and it performed admirably. And on my B&R rig we dont usually go DDW. VMG drops off if we arent around 120 or so. If we get an accidental jibe you just blow the sheet, and the afterguy if rigged and in danger of a drink spilling roundup. Of course you are stabbing at the preventer on the main. Hey ... sailing is cool isnt it. Im not disagreeing with you Vic, but I have pretty good faith in it as long as you dont extend it all the way out. But I only have a working jib so its not a problem. Cheers
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