We're getting ready to purchase a new headsail roller furling unit for our Irwin Citation 38, but know very little about the pluses and minuses of the various brands out there. Right now, we're looking at Harken, Profurl, and Alado Nautica. Is there another brand that we should be looking at? Considering initial price, ease of installation, ease of maintenance, longevity in a saltwater environment... which is the best overall unit out there? We're looking at extended cruising, so want to avoid units that can't take blue water or salt. TIA, Don W.
Which roller furler would YOU buy? (and why?)
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Schaefer
I don't know much about larger boats, but I personally installed a Schaefer unit on my 23' O'Day. The unit works perfectly even given my lack of mechanical ability and a 23 year old boat. It appears they make a good product. CVP
I don't know much about larger boats, but I personally installed a Schaefer unit on my 23' O'Day. The unit works perfectly even given my lack of mechanical ability and a 23 year old boat. It appears they make a good product. CVP
They are all good..
I personally like my Schaefer. All anodized aluminum and no plastic to fade and crack. Every boat with a Harken or Furlex looks faded and beaten up by the sun. I personally have owned boats with Furlex, Harken and Schaefer. The Furlex had a lot of little nickel and dime issues the Harken worked fine but did not wear well and my Schaefer has performed flawlessly and still looks great although like I said they all work well...
I personally like my Schaefer. All anodized aluminum and no plastic to fade and crack. Every boat with a Harken or Furlex looks faded and beaten up by the sun. I personally have owned boats with Furlex, Harken and Schaefer. The Furlex had a lot of little nickel and dime issues the Harken worked fine but did not wear well and my Schaefer has performed flawlessly and still looks great although like I said they all work well...
Depends ...
For North America the choices are: Harken Pro-Furl Schaefer Harkens probably outsell the others 2 to 1 in North America. They are a good unit but they become part of the headstay. This has never been an issue AFAIK, but it means that a rigger has to be involved in the install unless you use a sta-lok lower terminal. Service and parts for Harkens are available through most rig shops in NA. I like the Schaefer Snap-Furl for small boats (headstays less than 31' and no larger than 3/16"). The bigger Schaefers seem to be pretty good as well. They fit over the existing headstay. The only nit I can pick is that they use pop rivets to hold the joints together. They are not standard size rivets and if the unit needs repair, getting the rivets may be an issue (as it is with the old Hood furlers). Pro-Furl is known world wide. The unit assembles over the existing stay and is held together with set screws. Pro-Furls have lubricated, sealed bearings in both the halyard swivel and furling unit. One of the challenges for many cruisers is anchor clearance. When the anchor is stowed on a bow roller, the stock usually swings through an arc as the anchor is set and retrieved. Many times the stock smacks the furling drum. The answer to this is to raise the drum off the deck for ground tackle clearance. Only Pro-Furl has a provision for long link plates that can raise the drum up off the deck and still allow the furler to work properly. For world-wide service the choices are Furlex and Pro-Furl. I'm not a huge Furlex fan either. (Metric wire, no turnbuckle included standard) Facnor makes a furler, as do CDI, Hood, and others. My experience does not allow a recommendation of any of them (I only hear about them when they are broken). Price wise the Harken and Schaefer are about par, the Furlex (without a turnbuckle body) is a bit lower, and the Pro-Furl is the most expensive. Oh ... MY money?
Pro-Furl to replace a 3 year old Furlex ...
For North America the choices are: Harken Pro-Furl Schaefer Harkens probably outsell the others 2 to 1 in North America. They are a good unit but they become part of the headstay. This has never been an issue AFAIK, but it means that a rigger has to be involved in the install unless you use a sta-lok lower terminal. Service and parts for Harkens are available through most rig shops in NA. I like the Schaefer Snap-Furl for small boats (headstays less than 31' and no larger than 3/16"). The bigger Schaefers seem to be pretty good as well. They fit over the existing headstay. The only nit I can pick is that they use pop rivets to hold the joints together. They are not standard size rivets and if the unit needs repair, getting the rivets may be an issue (as it is with the old Hood furlers). Pro-Furl is known world wide. The unit assembles over the existing stay and is held together with set screws. Pro-Furls have lubricated, sealed bearings in both the halyard swivel and furling unit. One of the challenges for many cruisers is anchor clearance. When the anchor is stowed on a bow roller, the stock usually swings through an arc as the anchor is set and retrieved. Many times the stock smacks the furling drum. The answer to this is to raise the drum off the deck for ground tackle clearance. Only Pro-Furl has a provision for long link plates that can raise the drum up off the deck and still allow the furler to work properly. For world-wide service the choices are Furlex and Pro-Furl. I'm not a huge Furlex fan either. (Metric wire, no turnbuckle included standard) Facnor makes a furler, as do CDI, Hood, and others. My experience does not allow a recommendation of any of them (I only hear about them when they are broken). Price wise the Harken and Schaefer are about par, the Furlex (without a turnbuckle body) is a bit lower, and the Pro-Furl is the most expensive. Oh ... MY money?
Pro-Furl to replace a 3 year old Furlex ...
ProFurl is also the ONLY one
that comes with a head (upper) fitting that doesn't require a separate main halyard adjuster. We call it the "Darth Vader" piece. Take a look at some at your own docks. It keeps the halyard from wrapping around the forestay and the head fitting without any other equipment or mods. Stu
that comes with a head (upper) fitting that doesn't require a separate main halyard adjuster. We call it the "Darth Vader" piece. Take a look at some at your own docks. It keeps the halyard from wrapping around the forestay and the head fitting without any other equipment or mods. Stu
Spin-tec
Don: Take a look at the Spin-tec unit sold on this website. Half the price of the more expensive units but just as robust or better than the more expensive. For all the reasons you are looking for these unit meet the bill. Lifetime warranty and customer support to go with it.
Don: Take a look at the Spin-tec unit sold on this website. Half the price of the more expensive units but just as robust or better than the more expensive. For all the reasons you are looking for these unit meet the bill. Lifetime warranty and customer support to go with it.
Halyard?
From Spin-Tec: No Halyard Swivel! The Triumph 2000 furling system has no halyard swivel bearing assembly (this is the device typically used at the top of the forestay to carry the load of the sail hoist, separate the halyard from the turning sail foil and reduce the possibility of halyard wrap). When using the Triumph 2000 roller furling system, the halyard is removed from the sail after it has been hoisted. --- How do you remove the halyard after the sail is hoisted? The picture shows the sail permanently shackled to the furler. Like many CDI units, there are NO bearings in the Spin-Tec unit: --- No Ball Bearings! The system has no ball bearings. Instead large Delrin bushings are used in the lower assembly and smaller Delrin bushings are used throughout each of the foil sections. System friction is near zero and furling couldn't be easier. Bushing loads are minimal for low wear and resistance. Lastly, Delrin bushings require no maintenance! --- If a furler with no bearings and no way to lower the sail without going up the mast, the Spin-Tec fills the bill. Sorry, there is no way that the Spin-Tec is in the same class as a Harken, Schaefer, or Pro-Furl. Priced at $1400 - $2000 it has a target market. Like most things on our boats, we tend to get what we pay for.
From Spin-Tec: No Halyard Swivel! The Triumph 2000 furling system has no halyard swivel bearing assembly (this is the device typically used at the top of the forestay to carry the load of the sail hoist, separate the halyard from the turning sail foil and reduce the possibility of halyard wrap). When using the Triumph 2000 roller furling system, the halyard is removed from the sail after it has been hoisted. --- How do you remove the halyard after the sail is hoisted? The picture shows the sail permanently shackled to the furler. Like many CDI units, there are NO bearings in the Spin-Tec unit: --- No Ball Bearings! The system has no ball bearings. Instead large Delrin bushings are used in the lower assembly and smaller Delrin bushings are used throughout each of the foil sections. System friction is near zero and furling couldn't be easier. Bushing loads are minimal for low wear and resistance. Lastly, Delrin bushings require no maintenance! --- If a furler with no bearings and no way to lower the sail without going up the mast, the Spin-Tec fills the bill. Sorry, there is no way that the Spin-Tec is in the same class as a Harken, Schaefer, or Pro-Furl. Priced at $1400 - $2000 it has a target market. Like most things on our boats, we tend to get what we pay for.
Sorry, but you need to look at the unit.
Moody: They can drop the sail on a Spin-tec in a matter of minutes with their device that you purchase as an option. There is a bearing but they are not ball bearings, they are made from Delrin. If you have not seen one of these units, you cannot compare. Go to one of their shows and see the difference for yourself.
Moody: They can drop the sail on a Spin-tec in a matter of minutes with their device that you purchase as an option. There is a bearing but they are not ball bearings, they are made from Delrin. If you have not seen one of these units, you cannot compare. Go to one of their shows and see the difference for yourself.
I've read every word
on the Spin-Tec Site. Including the manual for the Halyard Hook gismo and the installation instructions for the unit. You loop the halyard onto the gismo, hoist the sail and get the hook to catch on the fixed bail. Then you have a choice of what to do with the halyard ... leave it skyed and secure the messenger or pull it down to the deck. What keeps the halyard or messenger from catching on the hook gismo when the furler turns? Am I the only one that sees a problem trying to snag the hook gismo with a loop in the halyard 40-50 off the deck? With the wind blowing 30+ on the way to Tahiti? Am I the only one that thinks halyard tension is a basic trim adjustment and any system that removes a basic trim adjustment has little value? How about nothing to keep the furling line on the drum? Sure the line will stay on the drum if tension is maintained on the line, but all it takes is to have the line go loose and one wrap to fall off the drum and you have a loop around the headstay fitting that will require a trip to the bow to fix while someone else puts tension on the line to keep it from falling off again. Delrin bushings ... all bearings either roll or reduce friction by spreading the load. Ask anyone that has a CDI with the Delrin bushing how well it works compared to a ball bearing system. That's why they call the ball bearing an *upgrade* for the CDI. I can get almost anything to work at a boat show display. How it works after 5 years at night in a blow is not part of a boat show demo. Read about the system for yourself. If it fits your needs and your budget, fine. Please don't try to tell me that it is comparable to a Pro-Furl, Harken, or Schaefer.
on the Spin-Tec Site. Including the manual for the Halyard Hook gismo and the installation instructions for the unit. You loop the halyard onto the gismo, hoist the sail and get the hook to catch on the fixed bail. Then you have a choice of what to do with the halyard ... leave it skyed and secure the messenger or pull it down to the deck. What keeps the halyard or messenger from catching on the hook gismo when the furler turns? Am I the only one that sees a problem trying to snag the hook gismo with a loop in the halyard 40-50 off the deck? With the wind blowing 30+ on the way to Tahiti? Am I the only one that thinks halyard tension is a basic trim adjustment and any system that removes a basic trim adjustment has little value? How about nothing to keep the furling line on the drum? Sure the line will stay on the drum if tension is maintained on the line, but all it takes is to have the line go loose and one wrap to fall off the drum and you have a loop around the headstay fitting that will require a trip to the bow to fix while someone else puts tension on the line to keep it from falling off again. Delrin bushings ... all bearings either roll or reduce friction by spreading the load. Ask anyone that has a CDI with the Delrin bushing how well it works compared to a ball bearing system. That's why they call the ball bearing an *upgrade* for the CDI. I can get almost anything to work at a boat show display. How it works after 5 years at night in a blow is not part of a boat show demo. Read about the system for yourself. If it fits your needs and your budget, fine. Please don't try to tell me that it is comparable to a Pro-Furl, Harken, or Schaefer.
Practical Sailors said:
Furlex is #1 but expensive. Profurl is next best and readily available at discount prices. I got Profurl, installed it myself and have no regrets
Furlex is #1 but expensive. Profurl is next best and readily available at discount prices. I got Profurl, installed it myself and have no regrets
Spintec furler
Moody -- On my H-33 1980 I have been using the Spintec furler for 2 years. I sail in the Gulf Stream several times a week out of Hillsboro Inlet. The furler works fine. It is easy to deploy, easy to furl, and easy to reef. We can get wind to 25 kts. and seas 6 to 10 ft. Much of the time I am single handed. I am using a 135% Genoa with a luff pad which still gives pretty good shape reefed to a bit under 100%. The construction of the furler hardware is quite robust. You do need to maintain some tension on the control line and I normally do not change sails away from the dock. Good luck, Henry
Moody -- On my H-33 1980 I have been using the Spintec furler for 2 years. I sail in the Gulf Stream several times a week out of Hillsboro Inlet. The furler works fine. It is easy to deploy, easy to furl, and easy to reef. We can get wind to 25 kts. and seas 6 to 10 ft. Much of the time I am single handed. I am using a 135% Genoa with a luff pad which still gives pretty good shape reefed to a bit under 100%. The construction of the furler hardware is quite robust. You do need to maintain some tension on the control line and I normally do not change sails away from the dock. Good luck, Henry
Reef Rite
I insalled a Reef Rite furler on my last boat and believe it to be far superior than the Shaefer unit on my current boat that has never worked particularly well in comparison. These don't get a lot of press in this country and spend little on adverising, but they really are a superior product. These units are designed to withstand the rigors of New Zealand/OZ offshore sailing. Bearings are double sealed standard industrial models that can be replaced anywhere in the world. Optional slides permit sail changes with the sail captured on deck, far safer than any other system. In addition they make conversion from hanks a DIY project for the average sailor. The drums have 'ratcheting' lock, making accidental unfurling virtually impossible. Two people + two hours + ordinary tools to install. Currency exchange rates have made them a bit pricey of late, but they are worth every cent. Since they come with all the 'extras' needed for the install included, they actually are not as expensive as appears at first blush. Check out www.anzam.com Don't buy any other model until you have at least had a chance to examine one installed on a boat.
I insalled a Reef Rite furler on my last boat and believe it to be far superior than the Shaefer unit on my current boat that has never worked particularly well in comparison. These don't get a lot of press in this country and spend little on adverising, but they really are a superior product. These units are designed to withstand the rigors of New Zealand/OZ offshore sailing. Bearings are double sealed standard industrial models that can be replaced anywhere in the world. Optional slides permit sail changes with the sail captured on deck, far safer than any other system. In addition they make conversion from hanks a DIY project for the average sailor. The drums have 'ratcheting' lock, making accidental unfurling virtually impossible. Two people + two hours + ordinary tools to install. Currency exchange rates have made them a bit pricey of late, but they are worth every cent. Since they come with all the 'extras' needed for the install included, they actually are not as expensive as appears at first blush. Check out www.anzam.com Don't buy any other model until you have at least had a chance to examine one installed on a boat.
No argument
I have nothing against Spin-Tec furlers. I only pointed out that they lack some of the features of other furlers. That means they do not meet my needs. For the money, I can't say that there is a better option. They found that most sailors don't change headsails, so the lack of a halyard swivel is not a problem. Most sailors don't adjust halyard tension often, so no provision for adjustment is not an issue either. I can't argue with their logic. The majority of boats that I see for service have not adjusted halyard tension since the sail was raised. I see a difference between not making an adjustment (for whatever reason) and not being able to make that adjustment. There is some logic in not paying for features that you don't need or use, no argument at all.
I have nothing against Spin-Tec furlers. I only pointed out that they lack some of the features of other furlers. That means they do not meet my needs. For the money, I can't say that there is a better option. They found that most sailors don't change headsails, so the lack of a halyard swivel is not a problem. Most sailors don't adjust halyard tension often, so no provision for adjustment is not an issue either. I can't argue with their logic. The majority of boats that I see for service have not adjusted halyard tension since the sail was raised. I see a difference between not making an adjustment (for whatever reason) and not being able to make that adjustment. There is some logic in not paying for features that you don't need or use, no argument at all.
Profurl
I was able to install a profurl myself cheaply while using the existing headstay and providing adequate anchor clearance. The unit is bulletproof.
I was able to install a profurl myself cheaply while using the existing headstay and providing adequate anchor clearance. The unit is bulletproof.
racheting lock on Reef Rite is a nice feature
That racheting lock on the drum sounds like a nice feature. I assume that there is a second line that is needed to release the ratchet when you want to unfurl? A few years back we were crossing the gulfstream from Ft Lauderdale FL to Bimini in a chartered 51' Beneteau. The wind had built steadily on the crossing, and was showing 28kts on the anemometer. We had already reefed the main twice, and had rolled the genoa up to about a 50% jib. Our hired captain decided that he wanted to bring the main all the way down since it was about to get dark, and he wanted to furl the jib all the way up until after we had the main put away. (There were only the two of us on deck and we were motorsailing at about 9 kts!) The wind against the jib made the furling difficult, and halfway through the boat took a lurch, causing him to lose his grip on the furling line. The whole 120% genoa came spooling off of the furler! Things got a little exciting right about then! Before we got it put away, this had happened twice. We ended up winding it up using a small self-tailer to make sure it didn't happen again. Don W.
That racheting lock on the drum sounds like a nice feature. I assume that there is a second line that is needed to release the ratchet when you want to unfurl? A few years back we were crossing the gulfstream from Ft Lauderdale FL to Bimini in a chartered 51' Beneteau. The wind had built steadily on the crossing, and was showing 28kts on the anemometer. We had already reefed the main twice, and had rolled the genoa up to about a 50% jib. Our hired captain decided that he wanted to bring the main all the way down since it was about to get dark, and he wanted to furl the jib all the way up until after we had the main put away. (There were only the two of us on deck and we were motorsailing at about 9 kts!) The wind against the jib made the furling difficult, and halfway through the boat took a lurch, causing him to lose his grip on the furling line. The whole 120% genoa came spooling off of the furler! Things got a little exciting right about then! Before we got it put away, this had happened twice. We ended up winding it up using a small self-tailer to make sure it didn't happen again. Don W.
Reef Rite.
Correct, but again all required hardware, guides, line and cable is included in the price. In addition, the unit comes with a new headstay that includes an extra long swage. The top swivel rides up over the swage eliminating two of the most significant weaknesses of traditional installations. First, the unknown quantity of adding stress to an older stay and second, the most stressed part of the stay in traditional furlers is the end of the swage and that is not the strongest point.
Correct, but again all required hardware, guides, line and cable is included in the price. In addition, the unit comes with a new headstay that includes an extra long swage. The top swivel rides up over the swage eliminating two of the most significant weaknesses of traditional installations. First, the unknown quantity of adding stress to an older stay and second, the most stressed part of the stay in traditional furlers is the end of the swage and that is not the strongest point.
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