Which jib car to use on a Hunter 33

[ADW-Canada]

My Hunter 33 has two tracks with jib cars (was going to call them travelers, but found out that's wrong). One is lower on the deck and the other higher on top of the cabin. I've been consistently using the lower ones, if only because that's the way the boat was rigged when i got it and also because it seems to logically feed to the rear winches.

But I'm curious to learn about the pros/cons of using the higher mounted tracks/cars and whether there are certain wind conditions where one is preferable to the other.

I'll admit to being a total novice when it comes to the details of sail trim and a novice cruiser overall.

 

[shemandr]

It depends on what headsail you are using. The "110" headsail, would often use the higher cabin top tracks. And that is typical for Hunters. Larger jibs may use the lower tracks. You need to size the jib. It may be written on it or on the sail bag.
To measure a jib, lay it out somewhere and run a tape from the clew to a perpendicular on the luff. If it is more than the measurement of the forestay attachment on deck to the mast it is over 100%.
Hunters with the B&R rig were typically 105% to 110%. Which means a small overlap of the jib to the foretriangle. But a previous owner could have had a bigger jib made for various reasons.

 

[Joe]

The two track locations offer the sailor options with the headsail's "tack angle". The tack is the headsail's forward corner, the one connected to the bow's stem fitting. FYI, the top corner is called the "head", the rear corner is called the "clew". Anyway, the angle created at the stem head when comparing the centerline of the boat with a line running from tack to jib lead is called the tack angle. The optimum angle is often built into the boat's design and sailplan choice by its creator. Therefore sailmakers will always consider this when building a suit of sails for a particular boat. At this stage of the game for you, I suggest NOT making any changes... just do what you've been doing until you learn more about sail trim and gain more confidence with your sail and line handling.

In general, though... the outside rail/track is often called the genoa track because it can normally accommodate larger sails associated with reaching (as opposed to close hauling) while the inside track is often associated with tighter, upwind work with a flatter sail. OKAY.......stop...... find yourself a sail trim guide immediately and spend a few hours with it... this will all makes sense. AND please, I do not want to hear you or anyone else say "I'm not a racer" ........... If you want to sail a boat....... learn to sail a boat..... racer's and daysailers use the same principles. Knowing the basics will make your casual outings more fun you and your crew, not to mention increased SAFETY.

Back to the tack angle. I suggest you do a little reading between now and the next time you go out. then you may choose to experiment with moving the clew to the inside location(track), and see if you can notice what effects that change has or your boat's performance. I will say that it's much easier to do this if you have an extra set of sheets already in place, or at least nearby. But changing the tack angle, at this stage of your sailing development, is not really going to change your enjoyment level. I would, instead, work on your sail handling skills(tacking, gybing, balance, etc.. Also, learn how apparent and true wind affect the boat and your decisions...... basically go through all the beginner lessons, including the vocabulary. Have fun.

 

[Scott B]

Upper ones on top of the cabin were stock installation and will allow you to sail closer into the wind, downfall is you have to leave helm to tack or have someone else do it. Lower tracks were added as part of the " Mariner" package. It allows you to tack without leaving the helm. I use Autotack on the Auto pilot and handle the jib sheets myself from the helm. Can't say I've ever used the upper tracks, but I don't sail competative.