Which exhaust manifold M25xp

[JosefR]

Someone working on my boat sent me this pic of the elbow coming off my manifold, so I'm assuming the whole manifold will need to replaced to fix it.


What is the part name and number I need to shop for one of these and the manifold? When I search Kubota D950, I find the wrong one.

 

[Stu Jackson]

The exhaust manifold, the exhaust riser or the flange? Which part?

 

[JosefR]

I haven't looked at it yet myself, which I will tomorrow, but I assume everything you just said. I didn't even know what the other two parts were called. I'm guessing the bolts will snap off when I try to remove them so the whole manifold will have to be replaced.

 

[JosefR]

Also, are these parts that I can get at a Kubota dealership? Or are they all marinized stuff that I will have to get from some specialty place?

 

[JosefR]

It looks like it might be 100349 for the manifold...my flange appears square and the exit side of the 100349 is round.

 

[chrisings]

Kubota will have nothing like this. It is part of the water lift exhaust system which is unique to the marine usage. There are many articles written about the exhaust riser. Some have made their own from standard iron pipe. The manifold itself may be reusable. The exhaust flange can be purchased separately. You might want to check a site like Catalina Direct for photos of the different bits and pieces.

 

[JosefR]

This is very confusing because the manual
http://realitycheck.me/docs/Universal_m25_m25xp_parts_200142_ed1.pdf
shows unfamiliar stuff (page 14, item 1) that doesn't resemble what I'm looking at in my picture. My mechanic says my flange is on the end of the manifold, not on the top of it plus it's square, not round as in the picture in the manual. Plus, if its water exhaust, why does the manual show an air filter?

According to the manual, I need part number 100349, but I have no idea if that is accurate.

 

[chrisings]

This is very confusing because the manual
http://realitycheck.me/docs/Universal_m25_m25xp_parts_200142_ed1.pdf
shows unfamiliar stuff (page 14, item 1) that doesn't resemble what I'm looking at in my picture. My mechanic says my flange is on the end of the manifold, not on the top of it plus it's square, not round as in the picture in the manual. Plus, if its water exhaust, why does the manual show an air filter?

According to the manual, I need part number 100349, but I have no idea if that is accurate.

You are looking at the "inlet manifold group" on page 14, wrong system. Look at page 48, part ID 2, part number 298599.

 

[JosefR]

No wonder I was in the wrong place, I was looking for a manifold in the picture. I see a flange but I don't see a manifold. I don't even see anything that the flange attaches to in the picture. Is that the heat exchanger on the back side?

 

[chrisings]

No wonder I was in the wrong place, I was looking for a manifold in the picture. I see a flange but I don't see a manifold. I don't even see anything that the flange attaches to in the picture.

Reading parts schematics is not easy. These Universal schematics are actually fairly easy compared to some automotive manufactures I've dealt with in my younger days.

 

[JosefR]

I don't know if I understand it yet, but my boat guy told me that my corroded part is attached to a manifold. I know what a manifold is supposed to look like. But according to this picture it looks like my corroded thing is attached to the heat exchanger. Which would mean that instead of me requiring a new manifold, I'm going to require a new heat exchanger?

 

[chrisings]

I don't know if I understand it yet, but my boat guy told me that my corroded part is attached to a manifold. I know what a manifold is supposed to look like. But according to this picture it looks like my corroded thing is attached to the heat exchanger. Which would mean that instead of me requiring a new manifold, I'm going to require a new heat exchanger?

No, the flange is connected to the exhaust manifold and the exhaust riser. Think of it as an adapter connecting two rather different pieces. Here is the link to a different page on the reality check website, where you found the parts list, http://realitycheck.me/building-a-new-exhaust-riser.htm. It might help you to understand.

 

[JosefR]

Now I see, page 14, part 13. Exhaust manifold.

 

[JosefR]

Great... looks like it's time to sell the boat. I wonder if I can recover the 10 grand I still owe on it.

Exhaust Manifold
· For M25/M5421 Universal diesel engines

Part# UNV-301014
Manufacturer Part# 301014

Regular Price: $1,799.95
On Sale For: $1,499.95

 

[Stu Jackson]

I'm guessing the bolts will snap off when I try to remove them so the whole manifold will have to be replaced.

Not necessarily. The "bolts" are actually studs into the back of the manifold, which hold the exhaust flange on, into which screws the exhaust riser (the insulated pipe).

Try using PB Blaster for a few days, cover your transmission so it doesn't drip down onto the seals.

Even if you break the studs, the remaining pieces might be able to be removed.

The flange is an expensive part, try to save that.

Engines 101 - The BIGGEST & BEST collection of M25 Series Universal Engine Information on the Internet, plus some M35, too

http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine

 

[chrisings]

Not necessarily. The "bolts" are actually studs into the back of the manifold, which hold the exhaust flange on, into which screws the exhaust riser (the insulated pipe).

Try using PB Blaster for a few days, cover your transmission so it doesn't drip down onto the seals.

Even if you break the studs, the remaining pieces might be able to be removed.

The flange is an expensive part, try to save that.

Engines 101 - The BIGGEST & BEST collection of M25 Series Universal Engine Information on the Internet, plus some M35, too

http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine

Stu is right, I will add that there is a fair amount of room allowing good access to the studs if they do break. There are many different methods that can be used to remove broken studs depending on the situation. Any good mechanic can remove a broken stud in a fairly short time.