I need to get a new prop shaft for my Catalina 36II because I probably will add a MaxProp in Spring. Would like to get a stainless steel shaft. It is 1 inch diameter. Any suggestions on where to purchase one in Chicago area(Indiana, Michigan, Wisconsin). What can I expect to pay for one. Thanks.
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Suggestions:
1. Decide on the exact MaxProp and get the 'most common shaft taper' available from Max prop (+ the exact dimensions of the "most common shaft attachment nut used on a Max Prop) ..... get this info from PYI, etc. 2. Take your old shaft and these dimensions of the correct taper *to a local machine shop* and have them build it for you. Hold onto your wallet as the cost of stainless steel prices has 'exploded' in the past few years due to the asian demand of metals. OR .... Why not use the old shaft and simply get a Maxprop with the correct tapers to fit your old shafting? ... for slight extra charge. (You will have to send PYI (Maxprop) your old propeller so they can verify the tapers.)
1. Decide on the exact MaxProp and get the 'most common shaft taper' available from Max prop (+ the exact dimensions of the "most common shaft attachment nut used on a Max Prop) ..... get this info from PYI, etc. 2. Take your old shaft and these dimensions of the correct taper *to a local machine shop* and have them build it for you. Hold onto your wallet as the cost of stainless steel prices has 'exploded' in the past few years due to the asian demand of metals. OR .... Why not use the old shaft and simply get a Maxprop with the correct tapers to fit your old shafting? ... for slight extra charge. (You will have to send PYI (Maxprop) your old propeller so they can verify the tapers.)
Ask the yard...
if you really need a new shaft. Old one should suffice. You'll love the Max-Prop. One unintended benefit is that it has much more power in reverse, which comes in handy if you ever run aground. Boy, does it come in handy.
if you really need a new shaft. Old one should suffice. You'll love the Max-Prop. One unintended benefit is that it has much more power in reverse, which comes in handy if you ever run aground. Boy, does it come in handy.
Thanks for responses....
I thought I should repalce the current shaft because I have to shorten it anyway. MaxProp recommends that the new prop extend past the strut no more than 2 times the shaft diameter. I am currently about 3 inches now. Also,I think a SS shaft will better support the extra weight of the heavier MaxProp but am interested in what others have done.
I thought I should repalce the current shaft because I have to shorten it anyway. MaxProp recommends that the new prop extend past the strut no more than 2 times the shaft diameter. I am currently about 3 inches now. Also,I think a SS shaft will better support the extra weight of the heavier MaxProp but am interested in what others have done.
Some thing to remember!
PT: Some thing that you should remember, if you shorten the shaft, you will also reduce the clearance between the prop tip and the hull. This is going to mean that you may need a smaller diameter prop. The prop tip should have a clearance of approx. 15% of the prop diameter. This amount to approx 2.25" on a 15" prop. If you do not allow this type of clearance you will have more prop walk and other problems.
PT: Some thing that you should remember, if you shorten the shaft, you will also reduce the clearance between the prop tip and the hull. This is going to mean that you may need a smaller diameter prop. The prop tip should have a clearance of approx. 15% of the prop diameter. This amount to approx 2.25" on a 15" prop. If you do not allow this type of clearance you will have more prop walk and other problems.
new shaft
Hi PT you could get a shaft at Deep Blue Yacht supply it coms up on Yahoo.I have a C 30 and I think it cost me 279.00 with shiping.I replaced my coupler for 50 bucks becouse it took a beeting when we removed it.It took me 4 hours to get it off ,pushing it out with a socket between the trans and the shaft with longer bolts. In the end I had to bang it off with a lump hammer while tightening the bolts.I replaced the coupler with a split coupler so the shaft slides out easy when you need repair. The old bronse shafts had a 3" keyway . I think you could cut 1" off your bronze shaft and still have enough keyway to hold the shaft .Mine was about 13/4 in a 2" flange.The new coupler is clamped on the shaft and the key dosent realy hold the shaft in the coupler like on the old one. John
Hi PT you could get a shaft at Deep Blue Yacht supply it coms up on Yahoo.I have a C 30 and I think it cost me 279.00 with shiping.I replaced my coupler for 50 bucks becouse it took a beeting when we removed it.It took me 4 hours to get it off ,pushing it out with a socket between the trans and the shaft with longer bolts. In the end I had to bang it off with a lump hammer while tightening the bolts.I replaced the coupler with a split coupler so the shaft slides out easy when you need repair. The old bronse shafts had a 3" keyway . I think you could cut 1" off your bronze shaft and still have enough keyway to hold the shaft .Mine was about 13/4 in a 2" flange.The new coupler is clamped on the shaft and the key dosent realy hold the shaft in the coupler like on the old one. John
thanks again gents !
I thought if that keyway was long enough, on the coupler end, I would still be able to use the present prop shaft. I only hope I can get the coupler off easier than John. I had a 30 also and was able to separate the coupler from the shaft easily. Maybe it had something to do with being in fresh water, or just luck. If I don't have to buy a new shaft I won't. Can always use the money somewhere else! But at least you guys have given me some ideas. Its good to know people with similar problems, even if you don't really know them.
I thought if that keyway was long enough, on the coupler end, I would still be able to use the present prop shaft. I only hope I can get the coupler off easier than John. I had a 30 also and was able to separate the coupler from the shaft easily. Maybe it had something to do with being in fresh water, or just luck. If I don't have to buy a new shaft I won't. Can always use the money somewhere else! But at least you guys have given me some ideas. Its good to know people with similar problems, even if you don't really know them.
PT are you 'jacking' the coupler off, or just
beating it off. You can easily 'jack' a coupler off: Put a long/deep socket of less than 1" OD between the nose of the shaft and the transmission. Be sure the socket doesnt touch any of the coupler. Get some extra long FINE thread machine screws that will span the distance from the coupler and the transmission yoke. Then all you have to do is tighten the screws (equal torque) and the coupler 'should' release from the shaft .... sometimes needing a bit of heat on the hub of the coupler and a few whacks from a hammer one the screws are 'straining'. You 'can' have the prop a bit further away from the cutless bearing, one inch furth is probably not going to make any difference, except that the shaft may 'whip' a teeny bit more inside the cutless give very slight more wear of the cutless. You should be changing to a new cutless bearing once the shaft is out anyway.
beating it off. You can easily 'jack' a coupler off: Put a long/deep socket of less than 1" OD between the nose of the shaft and the transmission. Be sure the socket doesnt touch any of the coupler. Get some extra long FINE thread machine screws that will span the distance from the coupler and the transmission yoke. Then all you have to do is tighten the screws (equal torque) and the coupler 'should' release from the shaft .... sometimes needing a bit of heat on the hub of the coupler and a few whacks from a hammer one the screws are 'straining'. You 'can' have the prop a bit further away from the cutless bearing, one inch furth is probably not going to make any difference, except that the shaft may 'whip' a teeny bit more inside the cutless give very slight more wear of the cutless. You should be changing to a new cutless bearing once the shaft is out anyway.
If you need a shaft you could try Catalina directl
They now provide Stainless Steel Shafts on the newer C36's. Its worth a shot, but you'd have to tell them the exact specifications to be sure you get want you want, seems like you need a "custom" length. Also Local shops are good 'sometimes'. My experience has always been hit or miss though As was mentioned the price of quality Stainless Steel has gone way up over the past year. Something about the price of "nickel" a key ingredient of SS almost tripling. Another source for shafts that I recommend is General Propoller http://www.gpcprop.com/inboard_shaft_machining.htm. I got a custom length SS shaft with coupling machined perfectly for it (highly recommended) for somewhere like $250-$300 for my C36. That was at least 4-5 yrs back though
They now provide Stainless Steel Shafts on the newer C36's. Its worth a shot, but you'd have to tell them the exact specifications to be sure you get want you want, seems like you need a "custom" length. Also Local shops are good 'sometimes'. My experience has always been hit or miss though As was mentioned the price of quality Stainless Steel has gone way up over the past year. Something about the price of "nickel" a key ingredient of SS almost tripling. Another source for shafts that I recommend is General Propoller http://www.gpcprop.com/inboard_shaft_machining.htm. I got a custom length SS shaft with coupling machined perfectly for it (highly recommended) for somewhere like $250-$300 for my C36. That was at least 4-5 yrs back though
ps. they shipped it to me no problem
reasonable charge and still cheaper than any local supplier
reasonable charge and still cheaper than any local supplier
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